Depends on if you caused cylinder wall damage and condition before hand. Is there still cross hatched pattern on the walls? If not, I'd measure diameter then go from there. I think I'd be concerned about port chamfers though.
Depends on how steady your hand is during porting.
Theoretically, you don't have to bore after porting. Just chamfer the ports, and you're good.
But you might slip with the porting tool and mar up the cylinder walls.
Happened to me just about every time. It's possible I'm just extraordinarily clumsy (my wife would agree).
I honed my 750 cylinder afterwards and it's still running strong. My SJ cylinder was right on the wear limit of requiring a new bore anyway. I made a tiny slip that could've been taken out with a hone but I chose to bore it one size over to be safe since I was getting a whole new top end.
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