Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
Custom/Hybrid Rickter X-FS build 727cc
- Thread starter Polish jet pilot
- Start date
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
Well here is a small update.
I am using ATP w/b and after careful fitting it seems that the oem exhaust hose from w/b to exit is a bit too short and if you are using a standard battery it goes over it making it even shorter. My friend welded few pieces of stainless tubing and we made a nice routing to the exit. I am planning to make these out of aluminum for lightness and might sell it to interested folks.
Secondly if you are going to use the back tank or not, I think the electric box needs a proper fitting. I did not wanted to drill the hull for brackets and strapping the box to the battery (on top) seemed like a temporary solution. We fabricated a light bracket made from aluminum straps and placed the ebox on front of the engine, above flywheel cover. Very good solution in the rickter as ebox is away from fuel and electricity and probably will be more resistant to vibrations. Additionally if you have an EPIC ignition the access to the module is much more easy for quick map changes.
Thirdly, if you are not using a RRP pole, such as ATP pole there is a need to tinker around with the air inlet pipes. If you want to use oem pole bolt this will not allow the intake tubes to go over the pole tubes to. So a solution is to use a dual bolt setup.
Interestingly, the motor and pump did not require shimming which shows that the hull is very well made...
I am using ATP w/b and after careful fitting it seems that the oem exhaust hose from w/b to exit is a bit too short and if you are using a standard battery it goes over it making it even shorter. My friend welded few pieces of stainless tubing and we made a nice routing to the exit. I am planning to make these out of aluminum for lightness and might sell it to interested folks.
Secondly if you are going to use the back tank or not, I think the electric box needs a proper fitting. I did not wanted to drill the hull for brackets and strapping the box to the battery (on top) seemed like a temporary solution. We fabricated a light bracket made from aluminum straps and placed the ebox on front of the engine, above flywheel cover. Very good solution in the rickter as ebox is away from fuel and electricity and probably will be more resistant to vibrations. Additionally if you have an EPIC ignition the access to the module is much more easy for quick map changes.
Thirdly, if you are not using a RRP pole, such as ATP pole there is a need to tinker around with the air inlet pipes. If you want to use oem pole bolt this will not allow the intake tubes to go over the pole tubes to. So a solution is to use a dual bolt setup.
Interestingly, the motor and pump did not require shimming which shows that the hull is very well made...
- Location
- Cheney lake Kansas
I love these hulls . your gonna love it with that motor in there! congratulations!
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
Build update:
Took her to the lake for the first ride. I had some issues with my dual cooling - only 1 worked so I was overheating the pipe and w/b, don't know why - but i swapped cooling lines and technically it worked. The ski is exactly what it was designed for - to unglue from the water with some POP! After 3 min of riding I felt right at home - stability and maneuverability are highly improved over e.g a SJ. Even at higher speed the ski rode v.nicely. The short tray is so nicely built around the rider, and feels so solid overall. I was thinking that weight could be an issue but the shape of the hull compensates for that IMO.
The only main problem right now its cavitation issues. This is also the case in the 845cc XFS we have here, to an extent that the ski gets full throttle and basically stands in 1 place... I am assuming, and please help me out here, probably the large intake and setback pump have something to do with it. An air pocket or something?Any tips from XFS owners?
Thank you
Took her to the lake for the first ride. I had some issues with my dual cooling - only 1 worked so I was overheating the pipe and w/b, don't know why - but i swapped cooling lines and technically it worked. The ski is exactly what it was designed for - to unglue from the water with some POP! After 3 min of riding I felt right at home - stability and maneuverability are highly improved over e.g a SJ. Even at higher speed the ski rode v.nicely. The short tray is so nicely built around the rider, and feels so solid overall. I was thinking that weight could be an issue but the shape of the hull compensates for that IMO.
The only main problem right now its cavitation issues. This is also the case in the 845cc XFS we have here, to an extent that the ski gets full throttle and basically stands in 1 place... I am assuming, and please help me out here, probably the large intake and setback pump have something to do with it. An air pocket or something?Any tips from XFS owners?
Thank you
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
The water is darn cold @ 5 deg Celsius :banghead:
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
- Location
- Hutchinson, Kansas
Check ur cooling line and trim line,when I first put mine together I capped off what I thought was the trim tube ( I didn't yet have a trim, so I capped the tube for the cable) turns out the top line on the bulkhead is not on top in the pump area, the tubes are crossed internally! I had same symptoms as you do, pipe got way too hot.
- Location
- Saskatoon,SK
The XFS I rode in Havasu with the 1100 Dasa had zero cavitation, best hooked up pump I have ever ridden.
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
Great info superramjet! (again) 
Good to have somebody who has the experience... the cavitation is probably a combination of things:
- need to prop up the ski a bit as the shape/weight is different (after I do the next steps below)
- need to seal all cavities with silicone
- check pump seal and how close the pump is to the pump shoe
Nice ski, too bad that paint chips off easily and turf is kinda weak...IMHO
Good to have somebody who has the experience... the cavitation is probably a combination of things:- need to prop up the ski a bit as the shape/weight is different (after I do the next steps below)
- need to seal all cavities with silicone
- check pump seal and how close the pump is to the pump shoe
Nice ski, too bad that paint chips off easily and turf is kinda weak...IMHO
- Location
- Hutchinson, Kansas
Ive already scratched the hell of the bottom of mine, but I've been fine tuning it and have it working very well with a 701 and stock pump. I have the back of my pump shimmed down a little, you should recheck that. I have no cavitation now with a 13/18 cut back solas.
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Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
Halloween ride update:
Took her to the workshop for some work. Took out the pump, put gnarly amount of silicone around pump seal and intake area. Installed the oem -3mm 08 prop. My intermitten spark problem appeared, my coil is probably going bad as the spark was quite weak - installed a fully charged battery and spark was way better - good. Test time!
Last time the ski drank 3/4 of the 9ltr cart tank in 15 mins or so. I leaned the bottom some and started her. She did nt want to start from the forst one and then i tried aganin and again and BOOOM - waterbox to hull hose blew. Installed it again - all good. Started and rode. Did my first 3/4 of a BF and a BR today - which was tremendous shock for me as I was trying them on my SJ - no success really. The ski is really meant for that and it shows during riding and as mentioned it is really easily adaptable to the rider, but my setup wakes are still crap and water temp did not help either (4.6C). Had some starting problems again and again _ BOOM - now the hose split by the w/b. My ignition must be off or something or still too rich - not sure. My fabricated aluminum ebox bracket cracked as well, my tank got dislocated and one of the straps just disappeared - maybe in the huge cavity of the scupper...
As they say - something must brake Good that my cavitation problem seems to be gone, but some more power wouldn't hurt, the 854cc ski does not feel alot of stronger but the torque is always there when you need it. Will work on my motor to improve it some its just a limited 727cc - still with that engine and skill BF are definitely possible on this ski
Took her to the workshop for some work. Took out the pump, put gnarly amount of silicone around pump seal and intake area. Installed the oem -3mm 08 prop. My intermitten spark problem appeared, my coil is probably going bad as the spark was quite weak - installed a fully charged battery and spark was way better - good. Test time!
Last time the ski drank 3/4 of the 9ltr cart tank in 15 mins or so. I leaned the bottom some and started her. She did nt want to start from the forst one and then i tried aganin and again and BOOOM - waterbox to hull hose blew. Installed it again - all good. Started and rode. Did my first 3/4 of a BF and a BR today - which was tremendous shock for me as I was trying them on my SJ - no success really. The ski is really meant for that and it shows during riding and as mentioned it is really easily adaptable to the rider, but my setup wakes are still crap and water temp did not help either (4.6C). Had some starting problems again and again _ BOOM - now the hose split by the w/b. My ignition must be off or something or still too rich - not sure. My fabricated aluminum ebox bracket cracked as well, my tank got dislocated and one of the straps just disappeared - maybe in the huge cavity of the scupper...
As they say - something must brake
Good that my cavitation problem seems to be gone, but some more power wouldn't hurt, the 854cc ski does not feel alot of stronger but the torque is always there when you need it. Will work on my motor to improve it some its just a limited 727cc - still with that engine and skill BF are definitely possible on this ski
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
The question is: where to put the ebox in a rickter? My last attempt failed - too much vibration - alu bracket just broke. I could drill the side of the hull, e.g above bpipe but maybe others who had the ski longer than I do could propose another solution??
I will also start fabricating the alu exhaust pipe from waterbox to exit - wil be light and unsplittable (hope the w/b will sustain all the blowbacks I am having now with my unset ignition)
I will also start fabricating the alu exhaust pipe from waterbox to exit - wil be light and unsplittable (hope the w/b will sustain all the blowbacks I am having now with my unset ignition)
- Location
- New York Crew
Looks good, so your running a 727 ported motor single carb, Epic and B pipe? What all have you changed since the SJ on your motor and electronics? Read my thread on my build as I am having a similar issue with backfire/kickbacks on my new DASA 850PV set up. It may halp with yours. Great build BTW
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
pretty much lightly ported 727cc, wammer mod bpipe, atp waterbox, 48mm BJ, ATP single mani, carbontech reeds, ATP 33cc head, ATP epic ignition.
Drinks some fuel, I think the 160 High Jet is too much. The screws on the carb are opened just a bit and still I feel its a bit rich. Flywheel lightening needed also. My 9 ltr firewall tank is still with T.C. and I need to get it here soon.
I also need to improve hookup and prolly will be going the Solas Pump way...
We will see..few parts need manufacturing for this ski to be complete (ebox mounting, waterbox - exit alu pipe and silicone couplers (samco style))
Drinks some fuel, I think the 160 High Jet is too much. The screws on the carb are opened just a bit and still I feel its a bit rich. Flywheel lightening needed also. My 9 ltr firewall tank is still with T.C. and I need to get it here soon.
I also need to improve hookup and prolly will be going the Solas Pump way...
We will see..few parts need manufacturing for this ski to be complete (ebox mounting, waterbox - exit alu pipe and silicone couplers (samco style))
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
- Location
- Kelowna B.C Canada
Awesome build, love the look of your ski bud!
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
thanks, it took a while to collect parts and raise funds for the hull, but at the end of the day...you live only once
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
Solas 12 mag pump should be here soon so a few more parts for 2012 Will report on fitment and other aspects... stay tuned
Will report on fitment and other aspects... stay tuned
Polish jet pilot
4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
- Location
- Warsaw, Poland
Soo finally go and installed my 144mm Mag. Got it from Jetmaniac (Chris thanks for the t-ee!) GREAT service. The kit consisted of new japanese bearings + seals, 2 rubber orings (fat and slim) of the diameter of the vane case, washer, the vane case and the cone - all nicely packaged.
I took out the shaft from the old pump, and installed it with a press with the bearings and seals. Used a thinner oring to seal the venturi nozzle against the vane case - worked really well - I did however sealed all flat surfaces with loctite gasket silicone just to make sure.
All alligned very nicely, bearings spun nice and free. I put a nice amount of ATF fluid instead grease in the bearing casing and sealed with silicone. Had to add a 2nd washer as my prop was cut back 3mm so I needed some space - no biggie. Some folks had problems installing the pump assembly into the pump cavity due to lenght problems or some other gizmos - not in my case - all went nice and smooth and fit perfectly.
I also finally managed to think of a decent ebox position for the ski. I fabricated a plate 50cm long and 12cm wide and installed it flat (attached to hull by screws underneath the hood gasket). The ebox has 3 holes on the back - I threaded those and attached it to the plate with 3 allan screws. The polished aluminum looks nice and there is no vibration to ebox, weight is close to the motor - no need to try to put that ebox on top of the battery as seen in some youtube movies. I also wanted to save the inside of the firewall for the tank that I ordered from T.C. some time ago.
Cleaned up and resealed my ebox too - the new EPIC with conjunction with well tuned Blackjack 48mm seem to wake the ski at a touch of a button. Fabricated a silicone hose that goes from the ATP waterbox to exit (90 deg to metal sleeve that joins with the silicone hose, which then is connected to a stainless steel S pipe that is connected to another piece of rubber at the very bottom of hull). This was necessary to smartly go around the battery and carb in such a way that they do not interfere with each other... generally, lots of little tweaking here and there.
Soon will test a the improved carbon chamber which first unit was just produced - we shall see the results. Some pics soon!
I took out the shaft from the old pump, and installed it with a press with the bearings and seals. Used a thinner oring to seal the venturi nozzle against the vane case - worked really well - I did however sealed all flat surfaces with loctite gasket silicone just to make sure.
All alligned very nicely, bearings spun nice and free. I put a nice amount of ATF fluid instead grease in the bearing casing and sealed with silicone. Had to add a 2nd washer as my prop was cut back 3mm so I needed some space - no biggie. Some folks had problems installing the pump assembly into the pump cavity due to lenght problems or some other gizmos - not in my case - all went nice and smooth and fit perfectly.
I also finally managed to think of a decent ebox position for the ski. I fabricated a plate 50cm long and 12cm wide and installed it flat (attached to hull by screws underneath the hood gasket). The ebox has 3 holes on the back - I threaded those and attached it to the plate with 3 allan screws. The polished aluminum looks nice and there is no vibration to ebox, weight is close to the motor - no need to try to put that ebox on top of the battery as seen in some youtube movies. I also wanted to save the inside of the firewall for the tank that I ordered from T.C. some time ago.
Cleaned up and resealed my ebox too - the new EPIC with conjunction with well tuned Blackjack 48mm seem to wake the ski at a touch of a button. Fabricated a silicone hose that goes from the ATP waterbox to exit (90 deg to metal sleeve that joins with the silicone hose, which then is connected to a stainless steel S pipe that is connected to another piece of rubber at the very bottom of hull). This was necessary to smartly go around the battery and carb in such a way that they do not interfere with each other... generally, lots of little tweaking here and there.
Soon will test a the improved carbon chamber which first unit was just produced - we shall see the results. Some pics soon!
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