restrictor RIGHT after the headpipe

[Ericfox]

I have "dual" cooling with one line from the pump to the engine that is split at the bottom of the manifold and one line from the pump to the bottom of the headpipe.

I was thinking of running a restrictor right after the headpipe to hopefully get better reaction out of the water injection... what do you guys think of this? I was thinking about using a 4mm restrictor.

Right now I have the line leaving the headpipe and then going to a T about 1.5 feet away where the flow control valve is on the straight exit of the T and a 3mm restrictor is on the other leg of the T.

I am also planning on putting a 3mm restrictor after the flow control valve.

By doing all this stuff I hope to- get better immediate flow in the headpipe, and also get the flow control valve to open but still not dump a ton of water into the stinger... I really would like to hear some veteran opinions to see if any of this might make a little difference...

 

[sflsurfrider]

it sounds like its going to wet the headpipe down too much = mushy bottom end.

oh... you said veteran opinions.... sorry:clown:

 

[WaveDemon]

it sounds like its going to wet the headpipe down too much = mushy bottom end.

oh... you said veteran opinions.... sorry:clown:

I like his idea. he could just tighten the adjustment screw to dry it out. the sooner you can get the water to spray (not drip or stream) the better I'd think.

 

[Ericfox]

it sounds like its going to wet the headpipe down too much = mushy bottom end.

oh... you said veteran opinions.... sorry:clown:

haha..... I would consider everyone on here a veteran except myself... lol...

I would screw in the adjustment screws until the pipe "sizzles"... that would mean that I would not be wetting the headpipe down right? if I get what you meant above?

One thing I have never done much work with is cooling stuff... I have been trying hard to figure out how much little things like this can really effect performance.... I had a difficult time telling any difference in my pipe adjustments.... but I think its because I have too much pressure in that system already and I was opening screws 1-2 turns... I think I will be trying 1/4 turn on top and bottom or maybe even less depending on how hot things get..

 

[WaveDemon]

keeping your pipe on the edge of sizzling like the instructions tell you is more for racing.

 

[Ericfox]

I guess I'll just open the bottom like 1/8 just to keep the coupler from overheating and then just start the top at like 1 turn and start turning it in by 1/4 turn at a time to see where the best performance is... and will check to make sure it doesnt overheat

 

[Ericfox]

I'd like to get a few more opinions before I go cutting apart my cooling lines.... Im off work today, so I will be going out in the garage soon and then its to the lake to test... anyone? just want to make sure the idea has some potential...

 

[WaveDemon]

just do it and tell us how it goes!

 

[Mark44]

I ran my pipe almost dry onetime on accident and that baby had a tremendous response and bottom end then I melted a cooling line that was touching the pipe.

Mark44

 

[WaveDemon]

I ran my pipe almost dry onetime on accident and that baby had a tremendous response and bottom end then I melted a cooling line that was touching the pipe.

Mark44

limited or mod pipe?

 

[sflsurfrider]

with a restrictor right on the outlet of the cooling jacket, youre going to be restricting the constant movement of water through the headpipe. youll create a high pressure, low movement area. sure, itll have more pressure to shoot water down the adjustor holes.... but will it get too hot from not enough flow through the cooling jacket?

i guess it would depend on the size of the restrictor youre planning on using.

 

[Ericfox]

I was planning on a 4mm

 

[sflsurfrider]

I was planning on a 4mm

ah... okay, i was thinking a tiny restrictor. 4mm should still pass enough water through the headpipe.

 

[SuperJETT]

It's all about testing on *your* setup. Theoretically with less volume prior to a restrictor, that section will pressurize quicker, and the water injection will spray quicker, etc.

It worked on my boat and a couple others, it's a very slight response increase, just kinda makes the engine feel a little crisper IMO. Who knows, maybe it was from other flow differences, but it's worth trying.

The theory is kinda related to a 97 XP I rode one where the guy had put in a pressure accumulator that was valved off and the electronic water injection was hooked to it. That system really worked, when the injection turned on, it had full throttle pressure even though you were still climbing in the revs. Super responsive.

 

[Ericfox]

holy crap.... Im so tired... I just got back in from 5 hours of riding.... I changed the restriction around exactly as I described it above... it felt OK when I first started... then I began to close the screw in from 1 turn- to 1/2 turn- to 1/4 turn- and finally ended at 1/8 turn... and holy crap did it come to life at 1/4 turn.... 1/8 seemed a little better but that is as far in as I wanted to go.... the pipe still does not get really hot even after a stretch of hard riding...The water is still in the upper 50s so I will prob have to open another 1/8 turn when it warms up some more...

I dont know if the new setup helped a TON... but I think I was opening my screws too far before... I was opening between 1-2 turns and I think that was just too much water.... I must have high pressure from the pump since I run my line right to the bottom of the headpipe...

 

[SuperJETT]

holy crap.... Im so tired... I just got back in from 5 hours of riding.... I changed the restriction around exactly as I described it above... it felt OK when I first started... then I began to close the screw in from 1 turn- to 1/2 turn- to 1/4 turn- and finally ended at 1/8 turn... and holy crap did it come to life at 1/4 turn.... 1/8 seemed a little better but that is as far in as I wanted to go.... the pipe still does not get really hot even after a stretch of hard riding...The water is still in the upper 50s so I will prob have to open another 1/8 turn when it warms up some more...

I dont know if the new setup helped a TON... but I think I was opening my screws too far before... I was opening between 1-2 turns and I think that was just too much water.... I must have high pressure from the pump since I run my line right to the bottom of the headpipe...

Exactly why I emphasized that you have to test on your setup. smitty (in Canada) just couldn't get his pipe to warm up, freestylegeek and myself tried helping through e-mail/phone/etc, but the 3 of us just couldn't figure it out. Finally, he realized he was using the water fitting on his Raider nozzle for the visibility spout, WAY more pressure than normal so any recommendations we made were way off.

 

[#ZERO]

Glad to hear someone else got this to work too.

I'm using a 1.5mm restrictor at the stinger inlet and a 2mm restrictor after the T-fitting before the bypass.

The less water you have in the exhaust system will produce the most power but you have to worry about burning the rubber hoses up.

Also anything more then 3/4 to 1-turn on your head pipe screws will always have the same amount of water unless you make the hole size larger.

He's a picture were I tapped the stinger water inlet fitting to accept holley-weber carb air corrector jets and used silicone hoses.