Other Paint

[chill720]

Getting ready to do a complete paint job on my SJ. I want to know everybody's opinion on what the BEST paint out there is about holding up on the skis, and most durable. No more paint than I am going to need, I dont really care about the price, I simply want the best!
Thanks so much for the input!

 

[weston]

Oh geez....:deadhorse:
Hey bro...do me a favore and..... just pretend i know what I'm talking about...K. :biggrin:

depending on what type of paint scheme your going with will determine the bran/brands you use. for candies BASF has good concentrate candies at a great price, house of colors has a better selection but they charge more. and BASG has the basic candies you would need unless your looking for a certain look/color
for your basic graphics job using "normal" colors/pearls/metallics i use PPG.
BASF & Akzo Nobel are the top players in the paint industry. there are others but they are the top dogs when it comes to the majority of paint used in manufacturing,collision repair...and on and on.
BASF's top product is Glasurit, they also make many other paints and products as well as most paint manufactures
Akzo Nobel's top product is sikkens

regardless of what product is used if not used correctly it does not matter how good the paint is.
a good painter can make almost any paint look good, and an inexperienced painter can make the best paint look like poo. the main thing you want in the material is a clear coat with good UV protectent. that is assuming your going to use base coat clear coat and if you want the best that is what you want to use.
I use PPG omni for solid colors and PPG global for metallic colors. PPG omni is less expensive then PPG global both are a quality product but globals metallics are "sharper/cleaner" i used dc5100 deltron clear on my ski but PPG shop line clear is good but you need one more coat of it to get your UV tolerance up to par. so the cost is negotiable with a more expensive clear because the more expensive clear needs less coats do to the higher uv percent in it.
all this goes back to the painter if your painter can't lay clear and needs to cut and buff half the clear off to get it flat then you will need more coats so you end up with the appropriate "mils/thickness" left on the panel.
you need to remember that most skis are stored inside and do not need a real fancy paint. with that said i can not stress to you the importance of a QUALITY painter not your cousin that "can paint" or your neighbor.
an experienced painter will kow tricks to keep the paint from cracking or chipping/peeling (such as catalyzing the base coat to get a better cross link between the clear and base) under abnormal condition I.E on a ski.
in other words anybody can paint but a painter is much different then an applicator.
from your question it sounds like you want a quality job that will look great and last. my advise would be to take it to a reputable collision repair shop. any repair shop worth a dang will use a paint manufacture that will warranty there product for life. the bottom line is you get what you pay for. with a quality shop if you don't like something (runs,over spray,dirt in clear/base coat) point it out to them and they will fix it with no additional charges.
I'm sure someone will chime in with the usual "well i used such and such and it looks great" well take my advise or not.
all imdoing is sharing my proffesional exsperiance, much the same as many engine builder and tunning gurus have done for me.

Check my build for paint refrance PPG & Deltron DC5100.
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/45314-...HAT-STARING-WILL-GIVE-YOU-CAVITIES!&highlight

 

[Waternut]

No more paint than I am going to need, I dont really care about the price, I simply want the best!

Regardless of what you buy, do yourself a favor. Buy more than you need. Sh*t happens when you paint and repairs have to be done. I ruined a great paint job a few years ago after only 3-4 rides because I over extended the pole and cracked the nose. If you don't have any extra paint, you've just wasted a ton of money on nice paint for a terrible looking ski.

 

[Mark44]

Rattle can is very easy to fix and holds up well.

Mark44

 

[Shadow7874]

Rattle can is very easy to fix and holds up well.

Mark44

Yep, i painted my 550 with krylon spray paint. Didnt look bad at all untill i let it sit out all summer and it got pretty filthy, but the paint was fine.
Although i doubt you will go with spray paint based on your post, if you do make sure you spray it on thick. Getting it thick enough so that it kinda self levels before it dries is the trick i found as long as you can avoid runs

 

[Waternut]

I did the rattle can job once and it looked good... However, when comparing to even a cheap automotive paint, the rattle can jobs look like crap.

Shadow, you're close enough to me that if you need your ski painted, I can help.

 

[2010brandingo]

Oh geez....:deadhorse:
Hey bro...do me a favore and..... just pretend i know what I'm talking about...K. :biggrin:

depending on what type of paint scheme your going with will determine the bran/brands you use. for candies BASF has good concentrate candies at a great price, house of colors has a better selection but they charge more. and BASG has the basic candies you would need unless your looking for a certain look/color
for your basic graphics job using "normal" colors/pearls/metallics i use PPG.
BASF & Akzo Nobel are the top players in the paint industry. there are others but they are the top dogs when it comes to the majority of paint used in manufacturing,collision repair...and on and on.
BASF's top product is Glasurit, they also make many other paints and products as well as most paint manufactures
Akzo Nobel's top product is sikkens

regardless of what product is used if not used correctly it does not matter how good the paint is.
a good painter can make almost any paint look good, and an inexperienced painter can make the best paint look like poo. the main thing you want in the material is a clear coat with good UV protectent. that is assuming your going to use base coat clear coat and if you want the best that is what you want to use.
I use PPG omni for solid colors and PPG global for metallic colors. PPG omni is less expensive then PPG global both are a quality product but globals metallics are "sharper/cleaner" i used dc5100 deltron clear on my ski but PPG shop line clear is good but you need one more coat of it to get your UV tolerance up to par. so the cost is negotiable with a more expensive clear because the more expensive clear needs less coats do to the higher uv percent in it.
all this goes back to the painter if your painter can't lay clear and needs to cut and buff half the clear off to get it flat then you will need more coats so you end up with the appropriate "mils/thickness" left on the panel.
you need to remember that most skis are stored inside and do not need a real fancy paint. with that said i can not stress to you the importance of a QUALITY painter not your cousin that "can paint" or your neighbor.
an experienced painter will kow tricks to keep the paint from cracking or chipping/peeling (such as catalyzing the base coat to get a better cross link between the clear and base) under abnormal condition I.E on a ski.
in other words anybody can paint but a painter is much different then an applicator.
from your question it sounds like you want a quality job that will look great and last. my advise would be to take it to a reputable collision repair shop. any repair shop worth a dang will use a paint manufacture that will warranty there product for life. the bottom line is you get what you pay for. with a quality shop if you don't like something (runs,over spray,dirt in clear/base coat) point it out to them and they will fix it with no additional charges.
I'm sure someone will chime in with the usual "well i used such and such and it looks great" well take my advise or not.
all imdoing is sharing my proffesional exsperiance, much the same as many engine builder and tunning gurus have done for me.

Check my build for paint refrance PPG & Deltron DC5100.
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/45314-...HAT-STARING-WILL-GIVE-YOU-CAVITIES!&highlight

well said, pretty close to what i would have said. when it comes to a high quality custom paint job i always use PPG and House of Kolor.

 

[McDog]

What is the drawback of single stage versus color with clear coat?

 

[Waternut]

Base coat/clear coat lasts longer in the sun, it's much more brilliant (shiney and has a deep color), runs or imperfections in base coat or clear coat can be wet sanded to a perfect finish, but it's usually 2-3x more expensive than single stage. Single stage is cheap, can be applied all in one go, will last longer than we'll keep our hulls even in constant sun, but any runs will require another coat. It takes less time to spray a single stage provided everything goes smoothly but it can be tricky to get a perfect glossy finish without getting a run.

 

[2010brandingo]

not all single-stage is cheaper than base/clear, depending on the products used. some single, although very good, is also very expensive. some of the main advantages of a base clear is that the metallics lay out much better, colors look much deeper, and you can do a multi-color scheme easier with no tape lines and get a much nicer finished product. IMO, if you are going with one solid color with no metallics than single is the way to go, other than that i would go with a base/clear.

 

[weston]

What is the drawback of single stage versus color with clear coat?

single stage can be very nice and it actually has a very deep look. i used to restore Porsche's and all classic Porsche's have a single stage from the factory. and you can actually de-value a Porsche by using base clear as it will not be original. one of the benefits to base clear is you are able to lay multiple colors and fix any blems in the base before you clear.base clear is more user friendly. to get a flawless single stage job is much more difficult than a base clear.
a quality single stage will last just as long as base clear. on a chemical level single stage has the same clear you would apply with a base clear it is just mixed in.

in short base clear is much more forgiving than single stage. but i am talking about a high end flawless paint job. for the average Joe a single stage might be more user friendly just because it has less steps. but the prep needs to be perfect to avoid fish eyes and other issues single stage inherantly have,because ounce its on, there are less options when it comes to fixing a problem.
part of what makes a good painter is how well you understand the product so you can fix problems as they arise. there are always gremlins waiting to throw a stick in your spokes when it comes to painting.
there are so many variables to painting it all comes down to what you want in the end. and that will determine what materials to use.
if you want it red and your not to worried about the details sand it wipe it down and throw some single stage at it.
i do not recommend a single stage metallic as they are usually muddy and to get a nice clean metallic single stage is not cheap.

painting is a black art and there is allot more to it then most people think, sure making something look OK is "easy" but when you get down to the nuts and bolts there is allot going on.

if you cant tell i am very passionate about painting and have been lucky enough to learn from some of the best.
i apologize if I'm coming off rude or arrogant it is not my intention at all, I'm just trying to help:smile:
i will stop rambling now.....

 

[Waternut]

i do not recommend a single stage metallic as they are usually muddy and to get a nice clean metallic single stage is not cheap.

painting is a black art and there is allot more to it then most people think, sure making something look OK is "easy" but when you get down to the nuts and bolts there is allot going on.

I've actually used the tcpglobal acrylic enamel paints pretty successfully. I wouldn't consider them the best but for the price, I think they are nice and hold up pretty well. So far I've sprayed 4 ski's, a jeep, and a ski boat with single stage metallic paints. Some turned out better than others but all of them look 100x better than rattle can jobs. When I sprayed my jeep, I had a hard time getting all the metallic flakes to even out but that was actually a firemist which has even more sparkley flakes than metallic paints. I had a couple little issues when painting ski's with excessive metallic flakes on one pass but even when I pointed them out to people, they can't see really see it. I'm by no means an expert but I have done a lot of painting. The hardest part for me has always been getting that final wet coat with single stage paints. In order to make it look and feel like a base coat clear coat, it has to go on pretty heavy and the chance for runs gets high if I have a funky curve that gets hit more than once on the final coat.

 

[weston]

with single stage your first coat needs to look like your last coat. the problem is if you put it one wet like it should be, you will most likely get fish eyes, it is very important to use water bore and then a solvent based wax and grease remover then "tack the hell" out of the panel. a clean environment helps as well your air lines need to be free of contaminants and your air needs to be clean as well.

you can get a "cheepo ball filter" (looks like a tennis ball) that goes on the air inlet of your gun it is a one time use deal but will get you through your job if your air setup is not sanitary.

 

[Crab]

We had real good results with the omni single stage over their 2k primer, I wouldn't even want to spend more on a surf boat with the abuse it gets. Alsa on the top hood over black base, then cleared.

 

[2010brandingo]

alsa has some bad-a$$ products!

 

[Crab]

yea crazy, two tablespoons was like 90 bucks lol.