300/440/550 Kawi Guru's Please Help!!!

[chrisdoc0608]

For the past week i have been getting information abt trying to solve my 88 650sx problems. It all began with my ski cutting off at full throttle in chop, then it began cutting off at full throttle whenever. next the ski began to idle then cut off if throttle was pressed, from there it began to progressively get worse until the point that it would crank up then cut off. as of right now the ski will crank and immediately die. if i hold the throttle down then crank it it revs up and then dies out as if it burns the gas it has, then runs out. so here is what i have done. i began by checking all cooling lines (when it was running) i checked all of the fuel lines for clogs, there was nothing. i emptied the gas, and tryed a using a diff CDI, which didnt change a thing so i put my old one back on and replaced the boots on the wires. i removed the carb and took the needles out as well as the jets and looked for anything that may be blocking them, the carb was in immaculate condition, everything in it looks brand new. so i put it back togather and put it back on the ski. I just installed a westcoast head also (187psi on each cylinder) so i put some 93 gas in and mixed it 40:1 (probably a little rich) and gave it another shot, it cranked up and died i took the lines off of the carb and cranked it to see if fuel was pumping, and it was. what the hell is going on here... i dont know what else to do and all i want to do is ride!!! ive had the ski since jan and i have only been able to ride for a total of 4hrs. someone please help me!

 

[turbohatch3]

check your stator, see if its loose or has moved

 

[chrisdoc0608]

well i think i fixed it. i changed the boots on the wires, and i poured premix into the carb and it started right up and ran like a champ. it reved fine, ran at idle great, so i guess it was just my wire boots. im gonna take it out tomarrow and see how it goes

 

[SUPERJET-113]

Clip off 1/4 to 3/8" off the plug wires or till you see good new wire,then screw the new boots on. Those wires corrode over a few years time and will cause a intermittent connection like the problems you are describing..

Glad it was something easy to fix!

 

[chrisdoc0608]

well it isnt fixed... i thought it was but it isnt. i went to fill up the tank today to take it out, when i came back it was acting up AGAIN!!! it will idle but as soon as i touch the throttle it dies. i tried feeding it gas into the carb and it still did it . could my stator be the problem? a guy from pwc is sending me a 28mm carb to try on monday but if that doesnt fix it what do i do next? pull the motor and replace the stator?

 

[ANT]

like someone said before just clip the spark plug wires back about a half inch back from where the boots screw in because the ends get corroded, just new boots might not do anything. If that doesnt work then pull off the flywheel cover and feel behind the flywheel and see if the stator is loose.

 

[chrisdoc0608]

i have already changed the boots and cut the wire back. as for the stator if it is lose would it cause this thing to be messing up like it is ( running well, then not running when you press throttle, then not idleing at all, and all over again)

 

[chrisdoc0608]

well i think i found the problem. i just pulled the motor and took off the flywheel cover and as soon as i pryed it form the case almost a hole quart of oil mabye more came pouring out. what does this mean? front seal bad? what do i need to do to fix this, and was this why my ski was acting so weird?

 

[kawirider00]

someone filled it with oil, just clean it all out with brake cleaner, give it a mist of wd40 and put it back together

 

[chrisdoc0608]

i did that, and put it back in, still fn up so i checked flywheel cover and when i removed the plug it let out pressure, sooooo i think the seal is bad. i have taked the motor out and sure enough there was more oil in it. ive just finished taking everything off and cleaning the stator and bendix, im gonna order a crank seal kit and replace the seals. can i just split the case and remove the bottom case while leaving the top half connected to the topend so that i dont have to remove the pisotns? i dont see why i couldnt, but i thought i would ask neway.

 

[750SX]

that will be a real P.I.T.A to do. Scraping the base gasket will be a lot harder than if u just get some new circlips and remove the pistons. Do it right so you can wash all your parts and keep dirt form getting in.

 

[chrisdoc0608]

thats my issue, i dont know how to do it right.... do i just take the jugs off and clean out the cylinder walls and the pistons, then split the crank and replace the seal? im trying to do this with out taking apart the whole motor. isnt the base gasket inbetween the cylinders and the crank case anyway?

 

[chrisdoc0608]

im not sure if you know what im talking abt.... i want to remove the bolts from the bottom of the crank case and split the case, leaving the rest of the motor intact, with the top of the crank case still attachedt to the jugs, then just replace the seals, and put the bottom back on, what would make that a pain? im asking bc i honestly dont know why it wouldnt work so if you could explain i would appreciate it.

 

[spork]

i did that, and put it back in, still fn up so i checked flywheel cover and when i removed the plug it let out pressure, sooooo i think the seal is bad. i have taked the motor out and sure enough there was more oil in it. ive just finished taking everything off and cleaning the stator and bendix, im gonna order a crank seal kit and replace the seals. can i just split the case and remove the bottom case while leaving the top half connected to the topend so that i dont have to remove the pisotns? i dont see why i couldnt, but i thought i would ask neway.

Maybe i'm wrong but if it had pressure in the crankcase then the crank seals are good?

 

[chrisdoc0608]

not in the crank case in the Flywheel case.

 

[Fletch]

Chris --

To answer your question, Yes. The bottom half of the cases can be removed, and the crank will drop far way enough from the upper half to replace the seals, without having to remove the cylinders from the top half of the cases. Be sure to packthe seals with waterproof grease according to your manual, and make sure the seals go in with the spring sides facing the correct ways. Make sure you scrape every last bit of case sealer off before you put it back together, and use Three Bond 1211 or Yamabond to seal the cases back together.

-F

 

[chrisdoc0608]

well i just got the cases split, i made a jig with a 2*10 and 2*4s to hold the motor in place while it was upside down, the case came apart with no problems, i took a razor blade and gently scraped the mating surfaces of the cases, just by visually inspecting the seal i dont see any cracks or holes in it. i carefully lifted both sides of the crank up a little bit and was able to remove the seal, so i guess i am just going to go ahead and replace it. what kind of grease? i dont have a manual, and where can i get the three bond 1211? i was just gonna use high temp gasket maker, but if you can tell me where to buy that stuff ill use it.
-Chris

 

[chrisdoc0608]

ive got pics of it here http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=114929&page=3

 

[Fletch]

Any good KAwi or Yamaha dealer will carry 1211. You can even get it at Cycle Gear (Assuming they have those where you live.) DO NOT use high temp gasket maker. It will fail over time, which will lead to another bottom end leak.


Pack the seals with a good waterproof grese such as Bel Ray, MAaxima, etc.

The seals on a 650 should be installed with the springs facing out.

The double lip seal on the back halfshould be on the inside, and the side with the projections should be facing inwards., so the flat side of the double lip seal is ouching the flat side of the single lip seal.

-F

 

[chrisdoc0608]

ok so if i go to the kawi dealer down the street they should have the sealer and what abt the grese?