Is this why my ski wont run?

[tor*p*do]

It sputtered and died on me and I got it cranked a time or two and swam it the last way back to the ramp.
I cracked the crab and the rubber grommet check valve thing is in two parts :frown:
No wonder it isnt running!
Ordered a rebuild kit this a.m. from Legdrag before I cracked it, anyone know if rebuild kit has a replacement one in it!
Thanks

 

[Matt_E]

A rebuild kit should include the clear plastic disc (valve) that goes on the reverse side (just like the left side of the picture).
I don't think the rubber things are included. I might be wrong.

 

[Fathom]

I know the plastic valve is but agree w/ Matt. I don't recall the rubber part in the kit.

 

[D Slicker]

Im pretty sure they are in there.

 

[Fathom]

Im pretty sure they are in there.

You're right, I just checked a kit I have.

 

[tor*p*do]

well I emailed Kevin @ Legdrag and asked him, and will call him in the a.m..
As long as I get it before the weekend when I head to the coast!!!!:arms:

 

[tor*p*do]

Just got a note back from Kevin. They are included, shipped today and are on their way:Banane01::Banane01::Banane01:

 

[#ZERO]

You will also need a 2.0mm ball end installation tool to push those rubber grommets through the fuel pump body.

 

[tor*p*do]

You will also need a 2.0mm ball end installation tool to push those rubber grommets through the fuel pump body.

say what? dont you just push the buggers in like in a keihin?

 

[#ZERO]

Those things are a pain in the butt to install without the tool.

I end up making a tool from a 2.5mm diameter jewelers screw driver on a bench grinder.

 

[Fathom]

I lube the rubber with a little premix and push and twist.

 

[tor*p*do]

what exactly does it look like?:sneaky:
I have a pistolsmith punch set and some assorted brass rod, so I can probably find/make something that will work :biggthumpup:

 

[#ZERO]

If you push and twist on the rubber grommet you might damage the concave shape of the check valve.

A 2.0 ~ 2.5mm ball end allen wrench would probably work okay.

 

[tor*p*do]

thanks for the info
took some brass rod, chucked it up in a power drill, put a file to it and made this.
measures 2 mm in diamter so it should work
it is now my official 2 mm tool!:bigeyes:
:haha:

 

[Bonzia Bob]

It needs to have a ball shape on the end in order to work properly. Even then they are still a pain in the ass. The kit should come with two rubbers so be very careful, they tend to tear if you get to rough with them. I believe the instructions have a drawing of what it should look like :biggthumpup:

 

[showmepro1200]

Use the rounded end of a small size pop rivet. Push the rivet part down to the cut0ff end first. Put a little light oil on the part before you push it in, it goes in perfectly.

 

[Fathom]

Good info. So far I've been lucky but I suppose it was only a matter of time before I buggered one up. I have rivets and ball-end Allen wrenches. :woot:

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

I use a smallish (not jeweler size, but almost) flat bladed screw driver and it works great.

Coat all parts with oil and then start on the valve side by finessing the barb with the screw driver until about 1/2 the barb is pushed through the hole (or as much as you can easily get through). Flip the whole assembly over and go at the other half that's not through yet from the opposite side while still applying pressure to the barb from the original side. Use a scratching type motion towards the middle of the barb, although don't actually scratch the rubber just more or less push it towards the middle which will pull the rest of the barb through. Once you get the hang of it, it should take less than a minute for each valve.

Also, make sure you put them in the right way. There is an upside and a downside for those plastic discs. The mikuni ones have a blue ink mark so you can tell the diff.

 

[showmepro1200]

I use a smallish (not jeweler size, but almost) flat bladed screw driver and it works great.

Coat all parts with oil and then start on the valve side by finessing the barb with the screw driver until about 1/2 the barb is pushed through the hole (or as much as you can easily get through). Flip the whole assembly over and go at the other half that's not through yet from the opposite side while still applying pressure to the barb from the original side. Use a scratching type motion towards the middle of the barb, although don't actually scratch the rubber just more or less push it towards the middle which will pull the rest of the barb through. Once you get the hang of it, it should take less than a minute for each valve.

Also, make sure you put them in the right way. There is an upside and a downside for those plastic discs. The mikuni ones have a blue ink mark so you can tell the diff.

I used the method you described in the past. I used the poprivet method on my newest SJ carbs and won't ever go back. You dont have to pick at it at all, just some light oil on the rubber part and gently push it in there, done.

 

[tor*p*do]

yeah, I have been eyeing the box of pop rivets
finishing nails look OK too
I think I will get it done :smile:
hopefully fedx brings a rebuild kit tomorrow