Super Jet Humor me.

I was wondering if all the masters would be kind enough to put together a starter kit for guys like me who are willing to mess up a lot while they sculpted and try new ideas to make their perfect ride.

So the scenario...say you have a superjet hull and 300 bucks for materials. You don't have any idea what you want to do other than you want to cut things then reshape things. What would you buy to be able to chop, glass AND THEN chop and glass again so you can tweak?

2 pt foam, 10 yds of 17oz biax, 2 gallons of resin, cabosil and some sanding/cleaning/handling supplies? And a grinder? lol
 
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Location
Wisconsin
I'm no master but if you can find space in the budget for aluminum rollers from US composites or another supplier they are life savers. I'd recommend getting one meant for corners and one for flat surfaces.
 
Good call on the rollers guys. I saw some videos recently and saw how they were used and it looks like magic for controlling the resin!
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Visqueen, or plastic painters drop. Pour the foam into an area, cover it with visqueen, use your hands on the visqueen to shape the foam as it expands. You wont get the exact shape you want, but you can better manage where the foam is going, with less form work.

For example, if you want to build a new hood liner, tape off the holes in the hood with packing tape, pour adequate foam into the hood, lay visqueen over it, as it expands, hold your hands in various places that causes the foam to expand side ways instead of up. You can do the job in less pours with less form building.

The foam will get hot as it expands. Gloves are not necessary, but it makes the job more comfortable.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I was wondering if all the masters would be kind enough to put together a starter kit for guys like me who are willing to mess up a lot while they sculpted and try new ideas to make their perfect ride.

So the scenario...say you have a superjet hull and 300 bucks for materials. You don't have any idea what you want to do other than you want to cut things then reshape things. What would you buy to be able to chop, glass AND THEN chop and glass again so you can tweak?

2 pt foam, 10 yds of 17oz biax, 2 gallons of resin, cabosil and some sanding/cleaning/handling supplies? And a grinder? lol

That's not a good idea. Secondary bonding is weak and heavy. Bonding, cutting and bonding again is not a good way to do the job. Any time I add to the hull, I try to remove any old hull that is not necessary anymore. The foam is lighter and provides flotation. I spent a solid 1-2 years just staring at my X2 before I made my first cut for the hood. I still have some tertiary bonding because I made mistakes (alignment), but it's minimal.

You should really plan the job out well before you start it. Do all your work with foam and then wrap it once. Only cut and re-glass for minor changes. If you have any major changes, your should cut out all of your old work and start over. This is of course, you are assuming you want a quality ski and not an aesthetic tank.
 
I'm not really sure what I want man!
Visqueen, or plastic painters drop. Pour the foam into an area, cover it with visqueen, use your hands on the visqueen to shape the foam as it expands. You wont get the exact shape you want, but you can better manage where the foam is going, with less form work.

For example, if you want to build a new hood liner, tape off the holes in the hood with packing tape, pour adequate foam into the hood, lay visqueen over it, as it expands, hold your hands in various places that causes the foam to expand side ways instead of up. You can do the job in less pours with less form building.

The foam will get hot as it expands. Gloves are not necessary, but it makes the job more comfortable.

Cool thanks...How would you make the vents after? Stick the tube in the hot mess of expanding foam or lay it over/inside after?
 
That's not a good idea. Secondary bonding is weak and heavy. Bonding, cutting and bonding again is not a good way to do the job. Any time I add to the hull, I try to remove any old hull that is not necessary anymore. The foam is lighter and provides flotation. I spent a solid 1-2 years just staring at my X2 before I made my first cut for the hood. I still have some tertiary bonding because I made mistakes (alignment), but it's minimal.

You should really plan the job out well before you start it. Do all your work with foam and then wrap it once. Only cut and re-glass for minor changes. If you have any major changes, your should cut out all of your old work and start over. This is of course, you are assuming you want a quality ski and not an aesthetic tank.

How do you deal with bonding the new surface that was created over the foam to the existing hull? There has to be mechanical bonding somewhere otherwise you might as well make a mold of your superjet and pour foam in it??? Assuming I followed through and made the best jet ski ever the most optimal thing to do would be to splash it in to an original bottom deck. But what approach should I take for dealing with bonding the foam braced glass to the existing hull?
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I'm not really sure what I want man!


Cool thanks...How would you make the vents after? Stick the tube in the hot mess of expanding foam or lay it over/inside after?

I'm not sure what you are asking me...

Say you are making a hood liner. You tape off the hood vents. Pour in your foam. Shape the foam to the shape you want your hood liner. Wax the hood. Lay up your glass in the hood. Remove your hood liner. Remove the foam and untape the vents. Glue the liiner back in, with or without foam.

For best results, you can use bondo on the foam, then wax the bondo when you wax the hood. This will make the liner easier to remove with a cleaner finish on the inside. The bondo will be removed with the foam so go nuts.

For tubes in the hood liner, after your foam is dry but before your layup, put 2" (or w/e size) OD PVC into the foam. They will give you a place to clamp a duct hose on for your hoses. Or you can skip that step, cut a hole in the liner and glue tubing to the hood without using the extrusion suggested by the PVC method. You have lots of choice.

It will save you lots of time and money if you think out what you want to do, not just the finished process, but how you are going to make your jig.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
How do you deal with bonding the new surface that was created over the foam to the existing hull? There has to be mechanical bonding somewhere otherwise you might as well make a mold of your superjet and pour foam in it??? Assuming I followed through and made the best jet ski ever the most optimal thing to do would be to splash it in to an original bottom deck. But what approach should I take for dealing with bonding the foam braced glass to the existing hull?

You have to overlap the new glass over the old glass. For example, with my X2, I did a nose fill. I filled the nose with foam, then I glassed over it going up the sides about 4" (pretty much to the bond rail). That worked well, but the next year, I cut out the stock hull from the inside, then reinforced the new nose from the inside, going up past the bond rail.

That is why I say it will be heavy and weak. Your repair will be about twice the size of the hole you are repairing. So even if you removed the stock hull, you will likely end up heavier than you started.

Also, when you secondary bond from the outside, you change your body lines. You are making those areas thicker. Splashing a secondary bond can be problematic because you slightly changed the shape in the process.

There is an alternative method that is twice the work but can make the ski end up nice from the outside. On the fuel fill area of my X2, what I did was, I filled the area with foam and shaped it with bondo like a plug. I then taped off the hull and waxed just the bondo. Next, I glassed over the bondo with minimal overlap, about 1/2". Then I went through the inside of the hull and cut out the stock hull and removed the foam and bondo. I then taped off the stock hull and waxed my "mold". Next I glassed over my "mold" and to the stock hull. Lastly, I ground off the edges holding the "mold" in place and did the body work to blend the new area to the hull. A lot of steps, I know.



As you can see, if you want to modify your ski, it may be nice but it wont be a perfect plug. If your intent to sell a splash of your work, you will need to either grind off the reinforcement to correct the changes in the body lines, or you need to get another ski and just make a nice plug.

There is no reason you can't foam, glass, foam, glass, cut, glass, etc. Just understand what that will result it. Think out what you want to do and how you are going to make it happen. You may still want to make changes after the fact, but you want to try to minimize those changes.
 
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