got a two place trailer that came with a 650sx, bone stock except for, looks like, blowsion spring but, it ran 3 years ago and does not do a thing when i hit the start button, what usually goes bad in the electrical on these?? if i can get this running i'll stretch the pipe cone, reroute cooling and hopefully have a great loaner ski that cost nothing. its a 91ish
650/X-2 got 650 with a two place trailer...
- Thread starter ajmps1
- Start date
- Location
- Houston, Texas
Battery? Recharge?
- Location
- Houston, Texas
Bad starter motor? Ceased engine? Could be bad electronics, try hooking it up to your car with jumpers that turned my old ski right over.
GrantWarden
Not new, just new.
- Location
- San Diego
if the ski is turning (piston wise) check for spark. Then, check for fuel. Fresh gas will be needed.
- Location
- CT
Soup have a test light to check the switch and silonod?
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Anything and everything can go bad.
The following suggestions are DANGEROUS to an extent, and I would suggest you do not perform them. The proper way to test the system is with a Ohm meter and a test light. I am only sharing what I would do if I was in your situation. I'd highly suggest draining and removing the fuel tank before doing any of the following.
Grab the drive shaft or coupler behind the motor and turn it by hand. If it does not turn easy, remove the spark plugs and try again. If it still doesn't turn over, remove the motor and turn the motor and drive shaft seperately to determine which is seized.
If the motor is out of the ski, or if you can unbolt the starter with the motor on the ski, remove the starter and jump it on the bench. Do this by connecting the positive to the bolt on the side, and the negative to the bolt on the back. The safest way is to use 3 cables, and put a switch in where the silinoid would be, and strap down the battery. Not using a switch WILL cause sparking, the starter to jump, and any sparking from the battery can result in the battery exploding. You can do this same test in the ski, but it is much more dangerous.
You can do the above test with the battery and cables from the ski. If it does not work, the above test should be performed with a known good battery and known good cables. Then again with the ski's battery and the good cables. Then switch out one cable at a time. Be sure to also use the 2nd positive battery cable to/from the starter cylinoid.
If you have to perform the above with the starter connected to the motor, KNOW that turning over the ski like this after it has been sitting for 3 years with no oil in the cylinders may result in scoring. Additionally, with the start/stop bypassed or not functioning, the ski may start with no way to stop it. You can pour a small amount of oil into the cylinders but that can boost compression and will not lubricate the bottom end.
You have now confirmed your starter, battery and 3 cables are good.
Next you can bypass the start/stop switch. Remove your test switch from the previous step, or if no switch, just bolt the wires back onto the silinoid. Do this by opening the box and finding the wires that are the start side of the switch. use a wire to arc the wires, activating the switch. You should hear a click, or more realistically, the starter should activate.
Assuming all of the above tests have worked, the problem remains in your switch, or the wiring of the switch to the ebox. This part is most easily checked with a test light. I also do not believe in spending too much time trying to repair a switch. If it's bad, don't rig it. It's not like a bad battery cable where you replace one part. A start/stop switch is an assembly, and you should replace it just like you'd replace a bad silinoid.
Again, the above directions are DANGEROUS and WRONG. You should NOT do them. However, if you do choose to do them, please drain the fuel tank and remove it, ensure the hull if free of flamable liquids, remove the motor if possible, and try to make your loose connections somewhere other than the battery (ie tap the loose cable end to the starter, not the battery, so the spark is at the starter instead). Batteries CAN and WILL EXPLODE, ESPECIALLY the lead acid kind.
I would recommend you use a ohm meter and test light. I'm not responsible for your injuries if you do something foolish. Something foolish would be defined as any of the things that I just explained.
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