Other Factory Pipe: Closing All Screws

Location
SW UT
So I live in CO, and typically ski at a lake with an elevation around 5000 feet. I have a 650sx with factory pipe, and it runs best when I have the bottom two screws closed all the way and the top screw opened as little as possible (1/8-1/4 turn). The instructions say to have the pipe be hot enough to sizzle water, well even with that set up, the pipe can't sizzle water, it just slowly evaporates off of it. The only way I can get the pipe hotter (as per instructions) is close the screws--which results in having all 3 screws totally closed. I contacted Factory Pipe, but they didn't really explain anything, they just said that it could hurt the pipe or engine (as per the instructions also). Can anyone help me? Besides the pipe getting hotter with no water flowing through it (which I want it to get hotter), will no water in the pipe damage anything? The water from the pipe doesn't flow into the engine, unless I'm wrong, so I see no problem there.

I also ride at Lake Grandby occasionally, with an elevation over 8000 feet, and with the above settings (top screw opened minimal), the pipe hardly works, 50% of the time I get a huge power band, 50% it just chugs along at 20% rpm. I want my pipe hotter, what do i do!?
 

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
take off the head pipe, hook up one end of the cooling passage to a garden hose and block the other end and see how much water is really coming out of the adjusters. I bet with them closed you're still getting water in the pipe.
 
You need some water to flow into the head pipe for exhaust back pressure/performance and so you won't melt pipe couplers...the top screw open only is for low end snap...the bottom screw open only is for top end/high rpm. The screw adjustments affect exhaust scavenging/back pressure...I would not run them all closed.
 
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