Super Jet Factory b-pipe cooling lines

Dutchie

Dutchie

Location
nederlands
Hi all,

Can anyone explain me how to hook up my factory pipe cooling lines on my Superjet round nose

I preffer some pictures. I live in the netherlands so understanding everything is kind of a pain in the ... :p

I have a stock engine with the 135 main jetting. Also stock head e.c.

Now i have to put my pipe on but i need to figure out the cooling lines.

Greetings,
 
D

Drewwho

X
Location
Destin, FL
Before you put pipe on check manifold for 1 or 2 inlets. If it only has 1, add the second one before installation. You will need to tap a new hole with a 1/8 NPT tap. It will allow more even water in, and help for future mods.

As far as routing lines, I have no diagrams, there are tons if you search it.
 
Dutchie

Dutchie

Location
nederlands
O dont need overkill on cooling.

I just want it for now to work. So if one outlet is good for now i will stay with that. I can always drill another one in there.

Just the stock works for me :p
 
D

Drewwho

X
Location
Destin, FL
Install is a pain in the butt, so if you have the extra inlet now it will help a lot, plus water will go evenly in both sides of manifold which can't hurt. If you redo it in future you will need new gaskets and the manifold is the first thing that goes on so you will have to completely start over.

All you do if you decide to tap a second hole is put a Tee between them, then take the one water line in from pump and go to that tee that feeds both sides of manifold. If you dont want to tap a second hole just go from the pump to the one fitting on the manifold.

So, as far as the rest, when I was stock head I ran my head water outlet to the bottom of the head pipe and ran the top of head pipe to the stinger with a tee that went overboard to pisser. factory pipe instructions have you go from head to top of head pipe and bottom of head pipe to stinger.

Factory pipes instructions are pretty good and should come with pipe, if not they are on their website. Only thing different I did was the top vs bottom of head pipe.

What year superjet?
 
Dutchie

Dutchie

Location
nederlands
Why would it be a pain to take everything out? It's just the battery and tank then it's almost out. I just want to ride and learn to ride it. I ride a x2 for years now so thirst the basics.

I got the pipe second hand, so i dont have the instructions. For my x2 i found paint drawing of the pipe and lines, that was verry helpfull :)
my superjet is a 2001 ? i think haha

Greetings,
 
D

Drewwho

X
Location
Destin, FL
Bypass is the one that goes overboard (The pisser).

Factory pipe instructions http://www.factorypipe.com/media/instructions/yamaha/701SJ03.pdf

I guess "pain in the ass" is relatively speaking. It's a tight fit, takes some time. It is only the battery and fuel tank to get the pipe pieces out. Then a few hose clamps, removing head pipe, then manifold, clean the old gasket material off extremely well. Two middle bolts on manifold are a little pain cause you can only tighten them an 1/8th at a time.

How do you know stock carb had the jet changed to 135? Did you change that? Do you have access to carb low and high screws?
 
Dutchie

Dutchie

Location
nederlands
I bought the ski running but in the lake it dropt dead. I bought it bone stock but i took it apart and saw the 135 jets so i knew the ran an B-pipe and just put the stock one back on.

Also the hull was sandes out to clear the pipe better.

The LS and HS screw have are tunable.

I dont guess thinks :p i have my own repair shop ( cars and scooters e.c. )

But the ski's and there cooling is not a daily thing and cooling issues is not something i am looking for.

I will take look tomorrow guys. Thanks !!
 
Last edited:
Dutchie

Dutchie

Location
nederlands
The diagram above helped me out !

Engine doesnt seem to get hot and the water comes out of the pisser :)

When the engine goes out you hear Pssssssst ( like pressure air ) out of the pisser, is this normal ?

My kawasaki x2 with the Westcoast pipe does not do this.

Greetings,
 
HiImScott

HiImScott

BrightE's said:
If you are running a stock head with single cooling this is your best bet.

http://www.x-h2o.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=31036&d=1184037220
Click to expand...

I have a stock engine with a b pipe running dual cooling. I bought it this way, but I think I may be overcooling. The water that is coming out of the one bypass (doesn't go through the pipe) is not really all that hot, I can comfortably hold my hand under it. The ski bogs out every now and then after jumping around or attempting tricks, and I'm thinking this may have to do with the cooling... Too much water into the pipe or a pipe that is too cold I'm thinking?

If I went back to single cooling would I want to copy what you have in the picture and just use T fittings on both the manifold and head since there are two inlets/outlets for the engine?
 
D

Drewwho

X
Location
Destin, FL
Scott, some people who ride in colder water put restrictors in there pissers to get the ideal operating temperature (120) for the engine. I ride in Florida an do not so if your ski came from the South maybe it has none and needs some.

I wouldnt go back to single for the safety aspect of a line clogging. It will be easier to fine tune whatever is going on now then starting with something new.

Have you sprinkled water on the first inch or so of chamber, does it sizzle? What are the screws on B-Pipe set at? What are the carb screws set at? So not doing any tricks ski runs perfect, starts perfect with no prime, etc...
 
HiImScott

HiImScott

Drewwho said:
Scott, some people who ride in colder water put restrictors in there pissers to get the ideal operating temperature (120) for the engine. I ride in Florida an do not so if your ski came from the South maybe it has none and needs some.

I wouldnt go back to single for the safety aspect of a line clogging. It will be easier to fine tune whatever is going on now then starting with something new.

Have you sprinkled water on the first inch or so of chamber, does it sizzle? What are the screws on B-Pipe set at? What are the carb screws set at? So not doing any tricks ski runs perfect, starts perfect with no prime, etc...
Click to expand...

I bought some restrictor valves so I can try to fine tune the amount of flow and get it to the temp it needs to be at. How do people usually measure the temperature to see that it is in fact at 120? Seems like it might be a circus act trying to ride it and use a thermometer haha.

I still need to try sprinkling water on the chamber, but I am expecting it to not sizzle water. I need to break the screws loose and check them, but at a quick glance it appears like the bottom and middle screws are closed (pretty much flush with the pipe) and the top screw is open (backed out of the pipe about 3-4mm). I will check the carb screws as well. The ski starts pretty easily without choke/prime and seems to run good the majority of the time.

I will need to take it for a ride again to verify this but the more I think about it its probably not losing power when I'm doing tricks necessarily, but I think it happens at low RPM, high load scenarios... Recovering from tricks such as a 180, slow turns that I try to power out of, catwalking the ski, etc.
 
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