Blaster Cylinder water outlet?

[Heelz23]

Put a pipe on a blaster but still have stock head, what can I use to plug the small water outlet on the front cylinder?

Thought I had it plugged but it came off yesterday, causing water in the hull. Ski would also run fine then just shut down while riding. Would start back after a few minutes. Could this have been caused by the excess water in the hull?

Thanks,

 

[Tyler Zane]

If you really want to make it permanent you could saw off the brass barb and fill the remaining hole with jb weld. Just a pea sized amount would be more than enough.

There is a part of me that wants to think that even though its really small, it may play a part in keeping the front and rear cylinder temps even. Honestly I have never ran a oem head so I would like to hear what others are doing with it. I could be crazy thinking it makes a difference on keeping the temp even but then again some engineer, somewhere down the line, placed it there for a reason. meh..

 

[Heelz23]

Yes you are right about that, are people routing it into the inlet at the end of the pipe? Had the carb rebuilt over the Winter and wonder if its that or the open cylinder outlet causing it to stall/cut off after riding it 30-40 minutes....

 

[Tyler Zane]

Sorry, i didn't respond to your entire post. As for the stalling out, check your check valve on your fuel tank. If you pull it off, you should only be able to blow threw it one way. Air should be able to flow into your tank but not out.

What pipe are you running?

 

[Heelz23]

Hey Tzane, Thanks for following up. I will check that out. The pipe is an older protec pipe, it is actually for the old VXRs but fit fairly well on the blaster.

 

[Quinc]

Why do you want to plug it off? Run a hose going from the outlet in the head out the hull through a pisser. Or use it as an excuse to pick up an after market head! =)

 

[Tyler Zane]

hey man, no problem! I like the aftermarket head idea!

 

[Heelz23]

Hey, its a long story but I put a jet manic head/stainless rods on it last summer and that thing looked sweet however I was not getting but around 150 on the compression....and could not figure out why. I'm a message board/google trained jetski mechanic so I thought I did something in the install. Well after checking a few things he asked me to look at the little code on the bottom of the engine, come to find out I had bought a Blaster with a 650 in it.....this all after I had spent $$$ on a pipe, head and re-jetted the carb for such. Was a let down to say the least but also a learning experience. I thought about just buying a 701 from somewhere but decided to just sell the JM head, put the stock one back on and call it a day. Planned on riding it this year if I can keep it running then selling it for what it is and get something better. At the end of the season last year I had the carb rebuilt so I dont know if that's the issue with it stalling after riding for 20-30 minutes or what....

I would route it out a pisser but it does not have one, water is exiting at the pump.

 

[Quinc]

That sucks man. I see people on pwctoday and craigslist selling skis as "stock" with smaller engines all the time..

 

[Tyler Zane]

Sorry to hear all that, I really do hate it for you.

As for your running issue, did you ever check your fuel tank check valve? Im going to lean away from the carb because it is not happening all the time. Also an exhaust leak could have symptoms where it runs fine for a while, bogs down and restarts after a few.

 

[Heelz23]

Thanks bud, not yet, plan on pulling it out this weekend and checking it out.

 

[Heelz23]

That sucks man. I see people on pwctoday and craigslist selling skis as "stock" with smaller engines all the time..

Yes, I bought it from a teenager that had it a few years, I really dont think he knew either, or at least thats what Im trying to make myself believe

 

[Tyler Zane]

Enough of the negative thoughts from the past... Lets diagnose this thing so you can go ride!

 

[Heelz23]

Check valve is okay, air only flows one way into the tank. Also blew thru the pipe toward the small tank that collects water and air flows as well. What should I check next?

 

[Tyler Zane]

Can you run it on the hose and peek around for an exhaust leak. You should see water leaking too. Ive had an exhaust leak kick my butt and if i had taken a better look under the hood I would of caught it.

I went back and read your post again. 30-40 min is quite a long time. How many times has it done this? Stupid question but how was your fuel level when this happened?

 

[Heelz23]

Hey man, it ran good for the first 30-40 then started acting up. After that you could ride about 10 minutes before it did it again. It was catching water from my open cylinder head outlet as well and I was wondering if that could have something to do with it. I will hook up the hose tomorrow afternoon and see what I can see on the head and exhaust leak. Thanks again for trying to help me figure this out. On the lake I thought it was the old plugs so I put new in and it still did it, when I took them out they were kinda wet and oily, could it also be running rich? Guy they rebuilt carb set it there and I have not changed the settings at all.

 

[Heelz23]

I believe I found the problem. Hooked it up to the hose today and I have a leak from the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold to the pipe. I am guessing its aluminum so it could be welded? I bought these used last year along with the pipe. Was spurting water out. Would this explain the cutting out while 3/4 throttle? I put the manifold on the motor last year and it had one bolt that was killer. Is it possible to take this piece off and leave the manifold attached?

See rusted spot
Thanks

 

[Tyler Zane]

Is it cracked or does it seem to just be the gasket leaking? This could explain your entire problem but you do need to tune your carbs/carb.

Carbs are not plug and play. I suggest tuning once at summers begging and once at winters beginning (in you ride in the winter) at least. Do you need a tuning guild?

 

[Heelz23]

Hey tzane, yes its spurting water from the rusted place, looks like it had been repaired once already. I posted in want to buy to see if anyone had a used one laying around that would work. If not, I will take it and have it welding again. Also thought about just going with stock but my carb is jetted for a pipe so Id have to do that again if I went back stock. No I do not have a guide, if you have a link that would be great. I think from the oily wet plugs I need to lean it out though.

Thanks again

 

[Tyler Zane]

If you have it welded, do some research for a god welder in your area. Dont just pick the first guy you find.

As for carb tuning I would like you to read the mikuni manual first. This will give you a better understanding of how they work. If you dont understand the theory a bit its hard to grasp tuning.

http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf

After that I would like you to read this thread. There is so much great info and it sums up everything.

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/carb-tuning-101-info-from-watcon.58480/



If you have any questions about tuning after that, please ask. Now go do your homework!