cylinder resleeve

[bigpine007]

Is it possible to resleeve one cylinder without warping the other. I have a 760 top end that was bored and honed .75 over and I bought brand new pistons for. The cylinder was dropped and the skirt broken off before assembly. The guy I sent it to said there is no way he can heat the cylinder to press the bad sleeve out without warping the other one. He said I either have to resleeve both and then bore to fit the pistons I have or resleeve one and bore both to 1.00 over and buy new pistons. Is this true? I didnt think resleeving was such a big deal.

 

[bigpine007]

resleeve

Chuck, #zero, are you there?

 

[Matt_E]

I ran into a similar situation last year.
Jetworks told me that I should replace both at the same time due to warping issues.

 

[bigpine007]

resleeve

F$%k

 

[Waternut]

I'd take jetworks's advice but I just can't see how a little heat and the removal of a sleeve for a minute or two would cause the cylinder to warp. Maybe if you let the cylinder cool and then reheated it, it would have a chance to shrink in a funny way but that's all I can see. Then again, what's to prevent both holes warping in a funny way with both sleeves out? Unless you plan on running your old pistons which doesn't sound smart IMO, you'd need to bore them both anyway in order to get the proper clearance for new pistons so who cares if it's .5mm over or 1.00mm over.

 

[Matt_E]

The sleeves warp, not the cylinder.

 

[SUPERTUNE]

Yes, the sleeve may warp a tic, but I'd say no...here's my reasoning...
Just replace the bad one especially since the other is brand new and I'm sure you could hone it a little to straighten it up, but really won't matter much with a little extra piston clearance, just run dual cooling.
The other thing to do is measure the old sleeve flange thickness that came out, and use another sleeve that the flange that is thicker, not thinner so you just have to deck the top of the block no more than .003-.004 thousandths. if you have to deck the top of the cylinder too much you may have to skim cut the squish band to prevent the clearance being too tight.

P.S. Thanks to UPS and my help not packaging a brand new Lamey cylinder bore job, it got to the customer with a broken skirt on that one, (I did fix that fine/ but was extra work to redo the port matching with the raw Lamey replacement sleeve) plus have done this a few times for other customers that had the same scenario of a broken sleeve or ruined sleeve from a ring hanging in the exhaust port.
Chuck

 

[waxhead]

thats good info there
I have seen resleeved cylinders blow o-rings and people struggling to find out why.
It was because the top lip on the sleeve was to thin like chucky is talking about

 

[Matt_E]

My sleeves were not brand-new. They had a season on them.

 

[wsuwrhr]

I wouldn't hurt to drop a new sleeve in, seat it, and check the old sleeve with a bore mic.

If it were mine, I would do just that, and have, on my T-Rex Banshee cylinder.

I would bore the new sleeve and do a top fuel hone, swishy-swishy on the "old" sleeve and call it good.

Like ST said, a couple extra clearance wont kill you.

Brian

 

[2XLR8]

I think the reason the sleeve could change in bore trueness is the fact that most sleeves are not perfectly round on the OD to begin with. When the cylinder is bored for the sleeve it is usually more round than the sleeve. Once you install the sleeve the ID becomes distorted in proportion to this amount. When the cylinder is bored at room temperature then it becomes round again. If you don't want to use up a bore on the good used sleeve then the best thing to do is to lock the sleeve down when heating to prevent any moving of the sleeve.Then check bore in many places and decide at that time if it must be bored. Hone stones tend to follow slight cylinder distortions as where a boring bar makes the bore round. I would pay particular attention to the bottom over hang portion of the sleeves.