Corrosion inhibitor

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Has anyone used this or anything like this before?

I finally got my dad to clean out his garage and he gave me this can he found. It seems to make the water bead up and run off whatever I spray it on. He said it was made for electrical connections. It's oily and turns whatever you spray it on yellowish.

I was looking for some feedback on this stuff. Anyone use it before? Eletronic? on other things that corrode over? Could I open up my CDI box and hose down my electronics?

rambling...
Today is going to be the 1st day in the salt with this ski. I'm afraid more things are going to be falling apart. The wiring is old and all needs to be replaced. I'd rather just stretch out their life, pull out the engine and replace every wire in the ski arround november when I'll be riding quads instead of skis.
 

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vandalais

Over here too
Thats the stuff I was using. Works too good. Leaves a nasty yellow coating on everything. Works really well for long term storage of parts but if you like your engine compartment to look pristine, I wouldn't use it. I switched over to Fluid Film this year. It's lanolen based and actually reacts to any existing corrosion.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I don't need my compartment super shiny. I need a low maintance ski. I was kind of thinking of spraying it on the parts out of the ski before I put them in.

I switched over to Fluid Film this year. It's lanolen based and actually reacts to any existing corrosion.

Elaborate? Is it the same stuff but clear? I'll look it up in a bit.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
So today, I thought my battery was dying while I was in the salt. It started working fine so I kept riding. When I got home, i started checking out the cables....

blah blah blah, long story short...

The bolt that holds the positive connection from the battery to the box crumbled in my hand. I need to fix it. I haven't looked into it yet, but if I can repair/replace all of the wires w/o spending a lot of money, that's what I am going to do. Then, after everything was good in the box, I was going to hose the box down with this stuff.
 

extreemthrottle

freeride junkie
Location
north palm beach
So today, I thought my battery was dying while I was in the salt. It started working fine so I kept riding. When I got home, i started checking out the cables....

blah blah blah, long story short...

The bolt that holds the positive connection from the battery to the box crumbled in my hand. I need to fix it. I haven't looked into it yet, but if I can repair/replace all of the wires w/o spending a lot of money, that's what I am going to do. Then, after everything was good in the box, I was going to hose the box down with this stuff.

i think you'd be better off with dielectric grease on the the terminals, alot less messy and does hold up to the salt very well.plus when you need to take it apart again you won't have that thick crap on there to deal with. also i ride a b-1 almost exlusively in the salt, i use a product called corrosion block on pretty much everything in my hull including the electrical stuff and it works great. another tip is to use liquid electrical tape on your cleaned battery connections and it seems to help too. btw the corrosion block is a bit pricey about 15.00 a can but it does last a while.

heres a link for it..http://www.corrosion-control.com/corrblock.html
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Does anyone have a picture of the guts of a 650SX CDI box, or... a picture of the guts of any CDI box.

After the bolt crumbling today, I realized that I'm never going to have fun on the ski because things are going to just keep breaking. I'm not going to replace used parts with used parts, but I also don't have a bajillion dollars to build a ski. I'd like to remove the box, clean it up and replace the wires.

I'd appricate helpful information on the topic. I had my engine out once and notice the CDI box has wires to come out of the box and into the bottom of the engine, but no connections to discconect the 2 from each other. I don't know how that's going to effect things. Replacing wires shouldn't effect the timing.

I found this good post on search for the wiring diagrams but no pictures of real wires (2D confuses me)
http://x-h2o.com/showthread.php?t=21721&highlight=CDI

My time is not the issue, it's the $$. If it's a lot of work but not too expensive, I want to do the work to my ski and make it reliable. I realize I "should" sell it and buy a super jet, but I don't want to, I like the project and a reason to work on the ski. I have a lot to learn about this stuff and this is a great way to learn it.

I'm so tired of having bits of rust in my bilge!
 

guiness92

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heres the box for my sj. I had to replace alot of my wires on my ski. The wire going from the starter relay to the battery on my ski was corroded so bad that my ski wouldnt run. Replaced the wires and connections and now it runs better than ever. The wires looked brand new from the outside but once I stipped the coating off, the wire inside just crumpled apart.
 

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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Thanks, that looks like something I can handle. I'll be pulling mine out soon. School starts tomorrow so I can't say I'll be pulling it tomorrow. I've seen some CDI boxes have circuts in them. Yours doesn't look like it has one and mine wont either? I can handle a basic wiring project, but a coroded out circut... out of my league.

Any comments about the wires running from my CDI to the bottom of my engine? It doesn't look like they come off. I haven't opened the box yet to find out, but the project would be so much easier if I didn't have to work on the box while it's still in the ski.
 

guiness92

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Not sure about the kawi, but on the sj there are 2 wire harnesses that you unplug, the 2 terminal posts on the starter relay, and after that there are only about 4 mroe iwres with bullet connectors that hold the box to the ski, I had mine off and back together in about 15 minutes. Hardest part is putting it back together and making sure you dont pinch any wires on the sides. Use dielectric grease too when putting it back together.
 
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