Super Jet Clean inside jacket of Factory B-pipe?

[96superjet]

I picked up a used ski that has an older Factory B-pipe and was both used extensively in salt water and not well cared for. I've disassembled the manifold, head pipe, chamber, water screws and brass fittings. Between the coupler and the cast aluminum head pipe was some kind of crazy brown build up, which came off reasonably easy with the flat edge of a screw driver and some light sanding. I assume this is some type of reaction between the salt water and cast aluminum. Now for my question, is the inside jacketed section of the head pipe probably full of this same salt water build up/corrosion and is there any type of chemical you should use to clean out the inside jacket of the head pipe?

Also, I snapped off one of the aftermarket 316 stainless steal bolts holding the head pipe to the exhaust manifold. Anybody got any secrets for removing the threaded section of a 316 stainless steal bolt from a cast aluminum exhaust manifold?

 

[ryan]

heat

 

[Powerhouse]

Get a 5 gal bucket, and fill with purple power and water, put the chamber in there for a day or two...

As for the manifold, I had the exact same thing happen! Broke an easy-out in the bolt too... So I took a nut, welded to the broken nut, then took an acetylene torch to the manifold, get a nice big wrench and turn out the bolt....

 

[onedumbtrucker]

Also, I snapped off one of the aftermarket 316 stainless steal bolts holding the head pipe to the exhaust manifold. Anybody got any secrets for removing the threaded section of a 316 stainless steal bolt from a cast aluminum exhaust manifold?

If you can grab it with vice grips then heat the bolt till it is slightly red, then let it cool for a few seconds (till no longer red) then gently try and work the bolt out. You have to be careful as it is easy to pull threads out of warm aluminum.

If there is not enough bolt still sticking out of the hole to grab with a pair of vice grips then the first thing to do is center punch it so any drilling you do will be properly centered. If you can grind it flat first that will make center punching much easier. I usually use a reversing drill and bits as occasionally once you get most of the way through a bolt it will then just spin out as you drill but this only happens seldom and most people don't have reverse flute bits.

Once you have drilled through it you can try an easy out or other extractor. Often I find it isn't worth the trouble but sometimes it works out.

I usually just go straight to drilling and tapping the hole oversize to put a helicoil or other thread insert in. It really depends on how grungy and stiff you think the broken bolt is going to be to get out.

 

[96superjet]

follow up

removed exhaust manifold from boat and less than 1/4 of an inch of the stainless bolt was sticking up. Luckily the bolt that broke is the hole closest to the engine. That hole goes all the way through the exhaust manifold and allowed me to put heat to the bottom of the bolt. Heated the crap out of it then put a big set of channel locks on it. NO SUCCESS :-/ Started drilling it, but holy crap that 316 stainless steel is tough. Drilled for like 10 minutes and seemed like I was getting no where. Gonna stop by a local machine shop and see if they can lend a hand.

On a seperate note. I recently ordered a new Factory B-pipe for my Superjet and was comparing it to an older Factory B-pipe from my 1996 Blaster. I have two new sets of gaskets that I got from Factory. The new head pipe seems to fit the gasket very well. The older pipe seems to have a much smaller opening. Is this normal and should I entertain porting the old pipe to match the new gasket?

 

[loictahiti]

yes the old model are very small, around 45/46 mm and the new model has 47/48 mm , you should to port it and match it with the new gasket

 

[Justinlowe948]

I' a boat mechanic and all the boats I deal with are in salt water anytime I have a stainless steel bolt break off in a cast aluminum housing what I found best to remove it is drill a hole almost to the bottom of the bowl then heat surrounding cast aluminum up till almost red then take easy out and can of dust off sprayed dust off down middle of Bolt that's broke off well holding can upside down so it's cold then tap easy out and do it and turn out must do it pretty quick a lot easier if it's in a vice

 

[fastgtfairlane]

ive seen a guy at a machine shop weld a nut to the broken stainless bolt, while its cooling down, he whacks the top of the bolt a few times with a hammer, lets it cool, then starts slowly trying to back it out. he would loosen it half a turn to 1 turn, then tighten it the same, then back it out another turn and repeat till it came loose. and it doesnt hurt the threads. he said to hit the top of any bolt a few times to break any corrosion build up in the threads loose before you start trying to remove the bolt so it doesnt break.