Super Jet Carb questions + pop off

I'm running a 62t motor in one of my fx1's, and just but a b-pipe on it and rejetted the carbs. I had the ski running for about 5 minutes on the water while I was testing the pipe. The low and high speed screws were both turned out 1 turn. It was a little boggy, but I figured once I started tuning the carbs it would go away. I got it home and pulled the plugs, one was starting to get a little brown, and the other one was still white and looked unused. I tried testing pop off pressure tonight when I got home from work, and neither carb will build pressure. I put 135h, 75L, and a 95 gram spring in them. The needle and seat were left stock. The ski ran perfect before I messed with the carbs and pipe. Where do I begin? Both cylinders have spark, and I'm pretty confident it's a fuel issue
 

onedumbtrucker

Now with 20% more pulp.
Location
London, ON
5 minutes if it is running rich will not build any carbon on the spark plug. likely it is a bit rich which tends to wash the plugs a bit and they will take longer to color.
 
Both of the carbs are set exactly at the same settings, and one has color and the other didn't, that's what worried me. Any ideas on pop off? I"m taking the ski back out tonight to mess with it some more.
 

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
Sounds like one plug is firing and one is not. Confirm spark and fuel delivery to that cylinder/carb side.
 

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
If th carb won't hold pop off at any pressure then you need to pull them apart and figure out what's up with that. If the needle is not seating then it's a flooding situation where the carb or carbs are dribbling lots of fuel, but u said ski started and ran. Usually a flooded engine will barely start and drown itself. I'd check the easy stuff first and then pull carbs and check the intake and reeds too.
 
laymen's terms, it transitions the fuel delivery from low speed circuit to the high?

technical definition...Pop-off is the measurement of the point where atmosphereic pressure overcomes the fuel draw vaccum of the carb. The entire regulator chamber is nothing more than a big check valve. It is the step between the fuel pump, which is providing more pressure than the carb needs to deliver, and the jets, which meter a fixed amount, within a certain pressure range. The regulator chamber is in place to maintain that pressure range.

The whole regulator chamber gets filled with fuel. The fuel is coming from the pump, sits under the diaphram, and is flowing through the jets. If it was just an open flow, with no needle and seat, the jets would be supplied with too much pressure from the pump. As the fuel is sucked out the jets, the fuel supply in thereis drawn out, and the diaphram goes down with it. As it gets to it's low point, it contacts the lever arm, and lifts the needle from the seat. That allows more fuel into the chamber, pushing the diaphram back up, re-seating the needle and shutting off the flow from the pumps, so the jets aren't over-pressured. This happens many, many times every minute as fuel is consumed.

If the pop-off point is set too low, there isn't enough resistance on the needle to stop the fuel pump flow, and the jets are over-pressurized, giving you a rich condition you will never tune out. The same goes for leaking needles.

If the pop-off is too high, there isn't enough fuel pressure to overcome the vaccuum and spring pressure, and you will have hard starts, as the engine is not spinngin fast enought o produce enough pulse, to make the pump supply enough pressure to flow the fuel into the regulator chamber.

It is adjusted by changing the size of the N&S, and the spring tension. There are 4 general strengths of springs - the less the spring is rated the lower the pop-off pressure will need to be to unseat the needle. For example, a 65 gram spring may give you a pressure of 15 psi, where a 115 gram spring may give you 50 (not actual numbers).

You test the pressure with a pop-off pressure gauge. With the regulator chamber open, wet the N&S with WD-40 or gas. With the pump body removed, attatch the gauge to the fuel inlet fitting on the body. Pump the gauge until it 'pops' noting the pressure gauge. Repeat this 3 times to get a nominal reading. Installing a heavier spring will raise the pressure.

video testing pop-off http://www.shopsbt.com/forum/t29016/
 
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