Boat Saga....

[douglee25]

Some may know my ski projects have been put aside for a boat project that I have started doing. I bought this boat as a project recently. Unfortunately, I have run into some major wood rot issues. I'll keep this short and let the pictures do the talking.

Short story....

I bought this boat under notice from the marina that the floor had minor floor rot right over the gas tank. No big deal I thought. I checked it out to the best of my ability and bought the boat. I spent well over 12 hours compounding, polishing, and waxing the boat. The exterior looks great now (as seen below).

Onto the interior I went. I cut out the decking that was rotted. After I was about to button it back up, I took a hammer and started tapping on the stringers. For anyone who doesn't know what a stringer is, just imagine it as a floor joist like in home construction, but in a boat instead. Anyway, I heard some dead spots and started investigating further. This is what I found and how I repaired it.

Please advise if you think I need more than one layer of glass over the repair. The factory wood had glass over it just to keep water out and it looked as though there was just one layer. I used 12 oz. Biaxial mat over the repair. Should one layer suffice? Let me know what you think.:biggrin:

Doug

 

[SJBrit]

That looks familiar! I've rebuilt my whole boat from front to back that way - even pulled the motor and put in new mounts. I put 3 layers of glass over for strength - didn't want to go back under there any time soon. Don't forget to re-foam!

 

[douglee25]

That looks familiar! I've rebuilt my whole boat from front to back that way - even pulled the motor and put in new mounts. I put 3 layers of glass over for strength - didn't want to go back under there any time soon. Don't forget to re-foam!

Do you think I should do three layers as well? I'm curious if one is sufficient or not?

Doug

 

[gj_fx1]

I'd do a couple of layers for good measure. For that small an area the weight and cost shouldn't hold you back. Adding a little strength to it wont hurt you either.
I'd also glass (or otherwise seal) both sides of the floor panel.

Also take a hard look at the area under the mounts (see last post). Better to find the problems now while you have it opened up.

 

[Whtbread]

I have been through that before. It turns into a big project. Looks like you did a great job repairing it.

 

[SJBrit]

I'd do a couple of layers for good measure. For that small an area the weight and cost shouldn't hold you back. Adding a little strength to it wont hurt you either.
I'd also glass (or otherwise seal) both sides of the floor panel.

Also take a hard look at the area under the mounts (see last post). Better to find the problems now while you have it opened up.

Agreed. Check the mounts too: drill a hole near where the motor mount bolts to the hull and see what comes out (you can patch over the hole with some fiberglass if everything is good). If it's nice, dry wood then you're fine, but my bet is that it's dark and wet. If you let a mount rot then the motor will sag out of alignment and the first time you know about that is when you spin the coupler. That's a $1000 repair :bigeyes: It's not a good feeling to be in the middle of the lake in a small cloud of blue smoke, smelling burning rubber and with motor that just revs and doesn't drive.... (This I know from experience!!)

 

[douglee25]

Agreed. Check the mounts too: drill a hole near where the motor mount bolts to the hull and see what comes out (you can patch over the hole with some fiberglass if everything is good). If it's nice, dry wood then you're fine, but my bet is that it's dark and wet. If you let a mount rot then the motor will sag out of alignment and the first time you know about that is when you spin the coupler. That's a $1000 repair :bigeyes: It's not a good feeling to be in the middle of the lake in a small cloud of blue smoke, smelling burning rubber and with motor that just revs and doesn't drive.... (This I know from experience!!)

I did try the drill method on the area that I have removed, but first I used the hammer method (listening for tone changes). I used the hammer method over all the mount sections. They did sound super solid. I suppose I could drill a small pilot hold through each mount to double check.

Now onto my question about reinforcing that section again. Since you need the second layer to be bigger than the first, can I just use patches over the entire thing? In other words, I used a piece that was as wide as the roll, so making a piece larger than the first is going to require piecing it together.

Doug

 

[gj_fx1]

No big deal to overlap pieces. Overlap a few inches. If you do several layers make the seams in differnet places.

Oh I almost hate to say but one more spot to look for rot is the transom.
Unfortunatley very hard to tell since you probably dont want to drill into it, but try tapping, looking for soft spots etc especially near the bottom.

 

[SJBrit]

One thing on laminating: if you want maximum strength then you should put the second layer over before the first one cures. Since I think yours has cured, be sure to rough the surface up really well before adding a layer.

 

[douglee25]

No big deal to overlap pieces. Overlap a few inches. If you do several layers make the seams in differnet places.

Oh I almost hate to say but one more spot to look for rot is the transom.
Unfortunatley very hard to tell since you probably dont want to drill into it, but try tapping, looking for soft spots etc especially near the bottom.

Thanks and I'll check into that.

Doug

 

[douglee25]

One thing on laminating: if you want maximum strength then you should put the second layer over before the first one cures. Since I think yours has cured, be sure to rough the surface up really well before adding a layer.

SJ Brit, I totally know what you're saying about layering before it dries... Unfortunately, I ran out of hardener so the job had to stop. I did have just enough to do the first layer though.

I put in a big order to UScomposites last night. 2 gallons of resin, 2 quarts of hardener, cups, sticks to stir, and 3lb density foam. I should have enough now to put another layer ontop of the first layer, plus reinforce some other soft spots that I've noticed. Oh, and I can't forget the footholds I'm installing in the SJ. I should have enough for that too:cheer:

Concerning the decking, I plan on putting one layer of glass on the top surface only, but sealing all the edges and bottom side as well with epoxy. All joints will either be glassed with a 2" overlap or I'll just throw some 5200 ontop of the joints to aid in removal if I need to do so later. Thoughts on that one? (glass vs. just 5200)

I checked the motor mounts and they are solid as a rock, so that is the good news. :Banane01:

While I'm waiting for the Epoxy order, I'll start rewiring the hack job $hit I've found throughout the boat. I will have this thing together within the next month. I promised you I will:woot: :woot:

Doug

 

[Shonuff]

Put in better speakers while you're there. :1244:

 

[SJBrit]

I'd go ahead and use fiberglass and resin rather than 5200: if you ever need to get back under there you can cut through the fiberglass easily with an angle grinder - the 5200 will be harder to pull apart and may damage the wood. Good news on the motor mounts: that's a suck-a$$ job.

 

[douglee25]

Put in better speakers while you're there. :1244:

In due time, in due time!:smile:

Doug