Behold! The perfect one way valve

[SJBrit]

Yes, I do believe I have found it. There are two types of one way - a flap type (no better than a scupper) and a plunger type. The thing that has always worried me about the plunger type is that eventually the spring will rust and the valve won't spring closed anymore.

Well, I found this today, and the thing I like about it is that all the metal parts are accessible. That means I can pull it apart and replace with all stainless steel and this puppy should last a very long time. I looked it up online a found that the spring is already stainless, but the bolt doesn't look like it is.

Very nice.

http://www.kbico.com/product_info.p...d=229&osCsid=a79af190e0131bf327adced2934b76d2

 

[SJBrit]

Scratch that - I read again and it's all stainless. It also has light spring tension which means it will open quickly - hard to find on a 2" size: they usually need some pressure to open.

 

[Boris]

I have seen these and even held one.
IMO the spring has too much tension.

 

[Proformance1]

Hey Boris, you bring up a good point. If the spring were lighter do you think it would work or is the cracking pressure of the check vale design too high no matter what spring is used? I have looked at similar types of products for commercial applications and normally they require feet of head to crack the vale open. although normally i am dealing with large diameters so...

 

[SJBrit]

The one I am replacing had a similar spring (but in a 2.5" diameter). It popped open just fine. Some of them are very strong, but this is just about perfect.

 

[Matt_E]

Low spring tension also means it will let air out very quickly when the boat is upside down.

 

[Boris]

but high spring tension wont let the water out until you get a ton in there.

I only pushed on the valve with my finger but I doubt a foot of water would crack it.

Than again, I could be wrong.
I'm sure that spring can be trimmed but how will all the vibrations affect the seal with reduced tension ?

 

[SJBrit]

I just tested it and it opened with 6" of head. Not fully open, but draining. I couldn't put water in fast enough to get to to hold more head than that because it just progressively opened. The spec says it's tested to 150 psi the other way. Don't forget that incoming water pressure will also help to keep it closed.

 

[Boris]

If it dumps at 6" than it should work just fine.
It won't drain every last drop out of your hull when you wash the motor but it will keep things dry enough.

 

[go4it743]

what if you hooked a high spring tension one up to a lever. like the trim lever, to break it open everyonce and a while. then your ski can go upside down and you wouldnt have to worry. it would dump faster then a bilge, no worries and no battery power. hmmmmmm maybe im wrong though.

 

[GReenANt]

what if you hooked a high spring tension one up to a lever. like the trim lever, to break it open everyonce and a while. then your ski can go upside down and you wouldnt have to worry. it would dump faster then a bilge, no worries and no battery power. hmmmmmm maybe im wrong though.

maybe something in the tray that you step on to open it. if its flat and sturdy you could put it where you normally ride and if you fall off it would close.

 

[SJBrit]

If it dumps at 6" than it should work just fine.
It won't drain every last drop out of your hull when you wash the motor but it will keep things dry enough.

I run 2 500gph bilge pumps too so I should be good.

what if you hooked a high spring tension one up to a lever. like the trim lever, to break it open everyonce and a while. then your ski can go upside down and you wouldnt have to worry. it would dump faster then a bilge, no worries and no battery power. hmmmmmm maybe im wrong though.

Hmmm.... that's very interesting. What about a gate valve that you could actuate manually? No spring required - you just open it when you want it to drain and close it when you need to be sealed.

 

[NVJAY775]

Has anybody compared the flow differences between a 1000 bilge pump and a typical scupper? Just curious... Also has anybody thought of using some kind of a switch that could work off of continuity? That could make it possible for the switch to stay on, but the pump, or pumps, would only run when they are needed. Continuity switch in the bottom of the hull next to the bilges. Save the battery for TL guys.. Just a thought. Slam away fellas!

 

[kiddioo]

Great, so how do I install it without cutting open my tray?

 

[snowxr]

Has anybody compared the flow differences between a 1000 bilge pump and a typical scupper? Just curious... Also has anybody thought of using some kind of a switch that could work off of continuity? That could make it possible for the switch to stay on, but the pump, or pumps, would only run when they are needed. Continuity switch in the bottom of the hull next to the bilges. Save the battery for TL guys.. Just a thought. Slam away fellas!

Water Witch bilge switches were around 20yrs ago, but weren't reliable. They usually stayed "on" when they failed, running down the battery.

 

[CarterB]

ive ran that exact one pictured. works fine. doesnt take much water at all to open it up. you can always remove a tiny bit of the spring too. its low grade ss but it wont corrode enough to worry. almost all industrial grade one way will have ss hardware in them. often home depot or lowes or ace will carry these with ss hardware if they are located near the coast where everything is saltier and etc.

 

[SuperJETT]

My problem with that type of valve is a zip tie or stick or bolt can wedge in and keep it open. I had it happen several times.

I used to run a solid brass/stainless one that I cut the spring down on and it worked, but didn't flow that well even with very little spring pressure, but tended to get stuck open because of debris.

 

[OCD Solutions]

I ran a 1" version of that exact same one in my old SN for several years and only had it stick once on me. I used to leave my ski floating on the lake for hours unattended if I jumped in my buddies boat.

Tywrap heads can only get stuck in them if tywrap heads are left in the bilge area so it's a manageable scenario plus the 1" version has a small enough opening that most nuts and washers are too big to enter far enough to interfere with the disc.

I really regret replacing it with a 2" Scupper when I redid my hull, it was the beginning of the end for what had always been a really good ski.

 

[superjetkev]

Has anybody compared the flow differences between a 1000 bilge pump and a typical scupper?

i know a single rule 1100 will drain my ski faster then the garden hose could fill it up. i run 2 1100's now and incoming water doesnt stand a chance. it pumps it dry FAST. has anyone filled their ski up and timed how long the scupper drains the ski? id like to compare

 

[SJBrit]

For it's not about speed so much as backup. I think my bilge pumps drain my ski quicker than the one way, but not if the fuze blows....

For a week now I've been trying to figure out a manual block off that I can actuate while riding. I'd really rather keep the one way closed off most of the time and open it only when needed.