B-pipe performance - review for newbies

Polish jet pilot

4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
Location
Warsaw, Poland
I have a pretty stock (engine wise) 62T motor with R&D angled spacer, choke butterflies removed.

I wanted to get as much bottom end power from my setup. I got a real nice B-pipe with bored exhaust manifold and polished windows. I run cooling in such a way: 1 cooling line from pump, this line gets divided into 2 lines that go into the exh manifold. From the OEM head I run 1 pisser overboard. The other line goes to the bottom of the headpipe. The rest is pretty standard with a T piece that directs rest of the water outside and waterbox.

I have been testing the bottom end power adjustments. Before I started with pretty standrd adjustments gotten from memebers and builders from here. Start 1 turn out on the top screw. I have been testing this for some time. The power was there, but it felt significantly stronger in the mid and crazy fast on top. I gradually increased the number of turns on the top screw and currently have two turns out. The ski is completely different. Still fast on top, but the bottom is explosive (in terms of a stock 701).

Turning 1 screw made all the difference and it felt like I would buy a performance part worth 400-500 usd.

My advice to all the guys getting into this hobby/sport: get a b-pipe before any other "real" performance part and play with it. It will allow you to really start practicing some tricks. The power really allows you to do so much more...

Have fun!

Andrew
 

SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
Your setup loses to much water pressure to the headpipe and is the reason you need to have the screw settings so far out. (2 turns)
You didn't even install it like the factory pipe instructions, so your were behind in performance right off the bat!
Most of you get way too technical and screw yourselves out of power...
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
i clean my head pipe every winter and blow air through the cooling passage while plugging the other end. i noticed that after 1 turn there was no difference in volume of air that passes throught the adjuster screws. i keep my screws almost closed.
 

Polish jet pilot

4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
Location
Warsaw, Poland
Your setup loses to much water pressure to the headpipe and is the reason you need to have the screw settings so far out. (2 turns)
You didn't even install it like the factory pipe instructions, so your were behind in performance right off the bat!
Most of you get way too technical and screw yourselves out of power...

Supertune:
Initially I installed it exactly as Factory Pipe said it. I had only 1 pisser going overboard. The pipe / waterbox seemed to fill with water too much. When I run 2 pissers now I notice that the pressure is there...the water is coming strong, and it's quite hot...and there is a lot less water going to waterbox, thus better response. Interestingly, I still maintain a strong top end..

What I noticed though that the chamber is still pretty cool. No sizzling, even with less water going into the exhaust...

Do you recommend some other setting?

Thank you,
Andrew
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Get a Jetworks flow control valve and a restrictor to control your water box water inflow.
 
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