2008+ SJ Stainless Impeller on a 95 Stock SN

[theVetteman3]

Did some searching online and haven't found much.

I'm looking for the right pitch impeller for a bone stock 95. It seems like a 2008+ impeller should be in the ballpark. I've heard it might be a tad tall and require a bored nozzle. If that's the case, given the total $$ invested, then we may just hold out for the right aftermarket pitch. Has anyone run a stock 08+ on a stock SN?

Which brings me to my second question, if not the stock 08+, then what's a good pitch? From the impeller application charts, it sounds like either a Skat 13/17 freeride swirl, or a Solas YB-CD 13/17 I. I have read good things about a 9/15 hooker on a stock sn as well.

Please let me know your thoughts, I know most of these skis don't stay stock for long. We're looking for a general riding impeller with a more low end bias than top end. Our riders are 100-180lbs.

 

[Roseand]

Yes, people have done so. That's what I'm doing this season for my dad's ski. Bone stock 95 with 08+ prop. If anything, whip out a drill with a sanding drum and bore it out a couple millimeters to loosen it up some.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[High Speed Industries]

I run a 08 impeller on a sn.

I found that it works well with a billet pump cone.

I have pump cones if you need one.

 

[theVetteman3]

Cool, thanks guys

 

[mbrick]

Hey Vetteman. I was in the same situation as you, the stock aluminum prop on my 2000 SJ was cativating a lot and not cutting it.

I picked up an OEM Yamaha 08 stainless impeller for $100 along with a spline holding tool from a member here.

Pulled the back of the pump off (leaving the front part in the ski, helps with alignment and does not break the seal to the hull).

Removed the old impeller. Fresh water ski so it broke loose easily.

Slid the new impeller on. No nose cone or anything. There is a small gap between the front of the impeller hub and the shaft because the shaft tapers in the middle section on the pre-08 skis, but it does not cause any issues.

Put the impeller back into the front of the pump that was in the ski. Same diameter, no grinding or sanding or any nonsense required.

Put the rear two bolts back in, hooked up the hoses, installed the ride plate. DONE.

I have to say the 08+ impeller is a HUGE difference from the older aluminum prop. I also saw my old aluminum had a lot of pitting in the root area from cavitation.
It's perfect for me and I couldn't be happier with the upgrade. No nozzle boring, etc required.
A lot of folks say it compares very closely to popular hooker, etc props.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions. I may be able to dig up some photos.

 

[theVetteman3]

mbrick that is some useful info, thanks for the post. We did go ahead and get a stock 08+ impeller for my brother's SN btw. I've read where people take the entire pump off and some just the stator. I'm leaning towards just removing the stator like you did and see where things stand. If there's a rub we can look at it in more detail. I've got plenty of experience doing this on Kawis, but we haven't torn down one of our SJs yet. On kawis with that small gap between the hub and shaft, I've filled it with silicone before to smooth out the water flow, but I'm sure that is a very small benefit.

Good to hear the performance improvement too, for the money I'm sure we made the right choice. I'll post back with my riding impressions once we've swapped it over. The ski bone stock did 41.6 on gps so we'll be able to gauge the speed increase too, if there is any. The big improvement we're looking for is more hook up and low end. Once we get the stock impeller out I'm also going to compare the pitch to see how different they are.

 

[High Speed Industries]

I suggest going with a smaller pump cone if you are looking for low end power.

 

[mbrick]

If you're checking for a rub, be sure you insert the stator all the way back in. I thought it was rubbing but once it was fully and properly seated it was perfect.

Agreed on the silicone, I opted to skip it rather than possibly make a mess to deal with if I ever need to remove it. If you need the last 1%..

The biggest difference for me was out of the hole on the bottom end, but it feels a little faster on top too.
No more "gravel" noise from cavitation at WOT at certain low speeds / conditions either.

I never clocked the speed so I would like to hear what you find -- please report back!

Here's a guide with a few photos, but he pulls the entire pump off.
IMPORTANT Yamaha uses left-hand threads. Turn the impeller clockwise to remove the old impeller, and counter-clockwise for re-installation. Righty Loosey, Leftie Tighty in this situation.
Reassemble pump assembly with the new impeller and grease the driveshaft.
http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/superjet-impeller-removal-and-replacement.2466/