-2 worth it?

[j0hnny]

so i have a 750sx (i know its not a stupid jet) but i love how the hull handles. doing a few mods for free ride (-4 lightweight pole, x2 trim with bore reduction nozzle, freestyle cone, 8/16 prop, d-cut ride plate) anyways..... wondering from all u guys that have chopped hulls is -2 worth it or am i being too conservative? should i go with a -4. this ski is for the great lakes and big cruiser wakes. so not looking for flat water. just would like a little arial help lol.

also considering swapping a yami powerplant down the line hence no engine mods.

 

[schicks]

i went about -3 on my stupidjet, i think it is perfect. I had -2 and decided to go more. It does make a big difference getting the nose to pop up faster and spins quicker. -4 was to much I thought since it exposed the nozzle a little to much IMO for jumping waves (you can prevent this some what by not cutting the ride plate all the way flush). -4 may porpoise more. Chopping hulls is a winter project tho!...its ride time

 

[j0hnny]

oh yeah just like to have my ducks in a row man! ill do the bolt ons. cut and paint this winter. did u cut straight up or on an angle. im thinking about cutting off the rear bond line, leaving the sides of the tray alone, and cutting the bottom on a 45 degree. told it helps stability a little. idk. lots to consider. im a little freaked out about cutting a ski i love to ride lol.

 

[Vumad]

I can't answer your question about the 750sx, however...

I went -2 on my x2. I shortened the hull 2" on the bottom and 1.75" at the bond rail. I was careful to cut it cleanly. I then made a jig (on the outside over foam on the inside) to remake the end of the hull. This allowed me to put in barbed tee nuts and my rear exhaust. I then put a piece of painters drop plastic on my bench, 2-3 layers of cloth, then set the pieces I cut off the hull and put a cinder block on them. Anyway, my point is if you do it right you can go -4 with 2" hull extensions.

 

[j0hnny]

awesome tip on the hull extensions.... thank you.

 

[schicks]

I split the difference between full slant/angle cut and straight up...i was undecided as well and splitting the difference looked good. I cut the rear and formed foam from the inside of the hull to build a base layer on the outside, then built up the thickness from the inside.

 

[whitca]

Cut it, you'll like it.

 

[j0hnny]

ik that i will have access to the inside to reinforce it didnt plan on cutting the hull apart that much. will that be an issue?

@whitca u think 2-4-6 or like 21 inches?? lol (can u tell im bored at work??)

 

[whitca]

I'd say 2" would be the minimum. You can glass it from the outside but personally I've always got better results doing it from the inside (plus it gives you an opportunity to rid the hull of wet foam and replace w/ the right stuff and drain plugs). One item you'll have to account for is the exhaust tube has a large muffler at the end. If you're cutting at an angle this will need to be addressed. I cut the muffler piece off all together and welded up an angled outlet to match the angle of the hull after it was shortened. You can see the angle I cut mine at in the second pic.

 

[BrightE's]

I cut -3" on my StuperJet last year, wouldn't have gone any less.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

 

[j0hnny]

not that is one sexy 750sx.... i thought kawi foam didnt hold water? but yeah i may de foam it. also looking into side exhaust instead of rear right now. i actually like it better, maybe im weird lol. and to do that i will have to split the hull to clean it out.

brighte and u went 7 on ur superfreak. read that build that thing is nasty. i love it.

 

[schicks]

ik that i will have access to the inside to reinforce it didnt plan on cutting the hull apart that much. will that be an issue?

@whitca u think 2-4-6 or like 21 inches?? lol (can u tell im bored at work??)

what oem do you work for lol?

 

[whitca]

SXR foam doesn't absorb water, my 750 was wet. You don't need to split a hull to put in side exhaust or dig out wet foam, just cut out the tray. Are you talking side exhaust in the rear or up front? If up front, yeah you're not just weird...battchit crazy! (j/k)

 

[j0hnny]

rofl field service technician. spen a lot of time in waiting rooms waiting on customers.

 

[j0hnny]

um up front.... farther back than my 650sx exhaust was but not back into the tray. and okay just cut out the tray.... sounds easy enough.... lol.

and i would put money on that mine is wet then. of the 2 750's ive owned this one seems far heavier.

 

[Vumad]

I with -2 on the bottom and -1.75 at the bond rail because of the shape of the stock x2 deck. If I were doing any other ski, I would do the same measurement on both keeping the stock angle.

Forming from foam is okay but I needed to do it the way I did so I could put the inserts on the inside, and also I prefer to do my repairs from the inside.

 

[schicks]

here is what cutting the tray looks like, but you may know this from searching other builds.

 

[j0hnny]

thats the best foot hold design i have seen yet! looks comfortable. so pink foam seems to be the most prefered for that vs just using all poured 2 part foam

 

[whitca]

2 part abosorbes water--use it sparingly and above the bondline whenever possible. EPS (pink) foam doesn't.

 

[schicks]

thats the best foot hold design i have seen yet! looks comfortable. so pink foam seems to be the most prefered for that vs just using all poured 2 part foam

takes more time to do pink foam vs pour foam, but it is the only way to go. It is impossible to seal it up 100%... water will get in. Use pink foam and put some drains in.