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Someone will pay whatever it takes to win. The prices are still climbing. I bet a few would be willing to pay over $100K if the boat had a high likelihood of winning.

There is such a small difference in strength and weight, does it really matter?

All the 250F MX bikes have more vertical forks than many of older models like the KDX. It works well on a dirt bike. All newer 250F are counter balanced and being a four stroke their power is silky smooth. My only complaint with them is they are all way too loud and too tall for goat trails.

All the 650s that I have seen thru 1993 had a bored end and the slightly thinner webbing. These cranks may have used on later 650s but they were vanishing quickly after 1993. I remember it was common to see rebuilt cranks with both 650 and 701 webs. The rebuilders didn’t care. FYI we had a rider...

They are all modern designs since they replaced twostrokes in the mid 2000s. I like Yamahas or Hondas just because of parts availability. KTM has a good one.

You don’t need a lot of power for trail riding. The four stroke 250s are very easy to ride and you are tall enough to touch the ground. Start there.

Considering the cylinder corrosion, you can bet it’s worn. It’s very unlikely that you will find one much better. Do you really care if it’s good, or are you just going to run it as is?

That would work but I like to move the whole stem aft and use a long steering cable.

I never found a sanding pad that last very long. We use 80 for rough work.

That’s why I moved the handlebars aft 9 inches on my X2.

I use a vise with aluminum blocks on its grips, and clamp the top and bottom of the impeller. Then I use a brass hammer and measure progress with a machinist scale. Most 144 impellers you come across have too much load for best response. Hammering on the leading and trailing edges can make a...

Old Superjets that run have had their price bid up more than the value of its parts. Dumb kids are easy to sucker and (almost) none of them stay around very long. It takes some time and a ruined hull/engine (or two) before they figure it out.

Assembled engines are very difficult to buy if you want to be sure of its condition. Cases can be fretted, or be perfect. Cranks can range from a $50 junk core to $1000 new OEM. Pistons may be cheap and the bore could be cut too large. You have to check everything because the people that do the...

You have an exceptionally fast ski. Back in the radar gun days, a decent limited race 650sx would do 44-45. Get a cheap 1991-1995 OEM manifold and stock 38-40 carb, they do run better.

There not much pipe tuning on these three cylinders. Just getting the exhaust out of the hull with little back pressure will work.

I made a wrench with 3 lugs to engage the blades. These old props aren't bad but a new YQ-9-15 does prime noticeably faster.

Physical premium is through the roof now. Pre covid premiums were $1/ounce, and $2.50 for Eagles..

I couldn’t tell much difference between those dry pipes and a B. If you want good response bore the nozzle and bend the impeller until you get there.

Then bore the nozzle and make sure the rpm is high enough. A low port 750 will pull that prop but a high port may be sluggish.

The “pros” need to sell you a new top end often in order to survive. Longer term users may want a narrower port with a slower closing radius.