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It probably hit a sandbar at some point. the thin cast aluminum doesn't have much flex before it cracks. They can be welded though.

ah, the 16 cell is 11ah, so you'd get about 2.75 times the run time compared to the nlp14, which is close to what you experienced. Besides having to seal the antigravity for water intrusion, the $280 price is about right for that much capacity.

What antigravity battery are/did you use? the nlp14 has a capacity of 4ah. on antigravity's website it lists the 12 size battery as 6.1ah for the standard 360 ca and 8ah for the 480ca. Even the 10 size battery is still 6.1ah. That larger capacity explains a big part of the price difference.

I swapped my yamaha start/stop switch to a polaris slt one that has an extra momentary button built in. Easy to take apart and clean the contacts if necessary and is oem quality. Will have to lengthen all the wires accordingly. I swapped to deutch connectors at the same time. I also modeled...

Ordered and received two of the 20ah series "sigma" batteries for $99 shipped. Fits well in a stock superjet box and in my old seadoo. 18ah so plenty of cranking if needed. Arrived with 13 volts in both. Have used both batteries now and have had zero issues. I did put some silicone on the...

Only type 1 and 2 jackets are designed to turn you face up. type 3, like we all wear, are not designed to do that.

If the motor is shaking like that, it sounds more like the idle and/or low speed mixture is off and is running rough till it gets past it. If you really want to narrow it down you can remove the midshaft housing temporarily and run it motor only to see if the shakes go away.

I've made a prototype design for 38's that seem to work fine. Clearing the head is a big issue for how tight the carbs are pulled against the cylinder. It also requires a special cover to have clearance around the sparkplug boot. That cover worked out well on some kawasaki setups that had...

Sounds like the low speed screws can be turned out another 1/4 or 1/2 turn. Are you using the complete original airbox?

It's surprising how clogged that inner filter screen can get before it starts choking the ski. I've also heard of the main fuel filters getting clogged as well. Just takes a pinch of fuel to idle and cruise around.

Yes, my current version of the hoseclamp bases will work with full spec 48's and 49's. I'll send you a pm to discuss further.

I've thought about some simple sensors in the reduction nozzle that would measure pressure and speed of flow. An indirect way of measuring horsepower, but more importantly being able to play with the engine and see real changes to the output.

Both are sold thanks

I'm picturing a chunk of 300 series stainless billet round 6-1/2" diameter 4"ish tall would cost $200. Weighing 38 pounds and being machined down to 5 pounds. Plus post processing. Sounds like a 1k-1.5k prop to me.

Not sure if he'll respond, but it is sold

Friend wanted to try out these "soft bars" from an atv to both raise the bars a couple inches and take some stress off the wrists when doing stupid things. Initial testing feels much more responsive compared to the main suspension steering that's on it. Replaced the original 701 industries...

It seems to me that some people will always keep on chasing the white rabbit and eventually get bored/tired and move on to another hobby. While others are content with a stockish ski and enjoy being on the water with whatever is running that day. I will always regret the days I didn't get out...

Worth checking for consistent spark and carbs that aren't leaking into the cylinder. I had bad sparkplug boots that appeared over the winter. Cranking with no/bad spark put raw fuel in the exhaust manifold and lit off a couple times. Not a backfire like the timing is off, but might as well...

Looking for front bumper, rear corner bumpers and side rails for roundnose superjet. Doesn't need to be perfect, just functional.

If it's similar to any other trim system, its an m8x1.25 socket head cap screw that has had the head turned down in diameter. You could get the screw from a hardware store and use a drill and file to take it down the extra 1mm or so.