2014 Krash Predator - REVAMP

Bilges came out perfect. Great clearance everywhere, nice and tidy. I am currently on a mini-vacation but I nearly finished the ski before I left. All I have to do is drop the tank in place and add gas… pics will be coming as soon as it’s in the water!

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Got the ski out on its maiden voyage, but didn’t get to rip too hard because of the new engine. Following the break in procedure recommended by Paul, I was able to get out and cruise around but nothing crazy. My first impression is a pretty good one, the ski is very stable and predictable. It took on almost no water at all! Bilges never had a chance to get rid of water, I guess that little scupper works great. Ski sat in the water for over a half hour floating and it did not take in any water to the engine bay. Engine stayed nice and cool, cylinder head temp didn’t get over 175 according to the temp strip. My only major complaint is that the throttle is hard to pull I guess because it’s too long for this hull. A RN cable is too short but the SN cable is much too long. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to route the throttle cable to relieve some of the pressure? I’ll take more pictures today!

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Looks so sick, Super clean work!

I just installed the JetManiac "long" throttle cable on my V3 Tigercraft and it's pretty perfect. I put it down the port side pole tube, under the Bpipe chamber, and in front of the motor across the top of stator cover. Seems pretty happy routed that way.

From JM:
Yamaha long throttle cable, stock diameter a/m replacement -SN, B1, FX1 $79. sale 64.95
$57.95
1 x$57.95
-This longer sized cable is used on any Superjet, Blaster or also a/m hull build requiring longer cable length for a/m or sgl carb carb setups. (95.5 inches long)
 
Impressive work. I just got a FootRocket w. rusty and seized 997 and thinking about replacing with a 61x, glad to see a build thread. Are those stock motor mounts and location?
 
Impressive work. I just got a FootRocket w. rusty and seized 997 and thinking about replacing with a 61x, glad to see a build thread. Are those stock motor mounts and location?

The engine mounting plates are the ones that came with the Krash. I am running couch mounts and they fit fine except I had to use an offset coupler on my exhaust to clear the motor mount.


@hornedogg79 this is the offset I used, 6" length.
 
I decided to swap my pump and in doing so, I noticed that my wear ring is slightly shifted to the starboard side of the hull… should I try to slot the holes for the wear ring or leave it alone???
View attachment 458936
Wait a minute here…. what’s really going on? First priority is driveshaft alignment with bulkhead. If that’s where the wear ring needs to be for shaft alignment (with cold fusion tool) technically your shoe is shifted to the port side, not your wear ring is shifted starboard…
 
Wait a minute here…. what’s really going on? First priority is driveshaft alignment with bulkhead. If that’s where the wear ring needs to be for shaft alignment (with cold fusion tool) technically your shoe is shifted to the port side, not your wear ring is shifted starboard…

Mike, I went from the 148mm pump to my old Skat-Trak. With the 1 piece design of the old pump, I couldn't look through the tunnel because there is no "wear ring" so I never was able to see this. I know for certain there was no room to "shift" the pump shoe when I installed it. I do remember earlier in this thread that I was able to get the sealing surface concentric and even for the pump seal to sit properly. On the old pump I had trouble getting the front 2 bolts into place because they were almost too far apart. I haven't tried to align this pump yet but I set the wear ring into place to see if I was going to have the same issue getting the front bolts into place. These bolts go in without interference but they are to the outside of the holes and leave no room for shifting left to right... Im sure it will be fine either way but I thought this seemed kinda strange!!! Any advice is much appreciated!
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
I would bolt up the stator section and check alignment. If alignment is good then shift the wear ring over so there is no offset, This could cause cavitation issues........ Did your Torrent sit flush all the way around on the shoe before?? If not, that could be some of your issues.
 
I would bolt up the stator section and check alignment. If alignment is good then shift the wear ring over so there is no offset, This could cause cavitation issues........ Did your Torrent sit flush all the way around on the shoe before?? If not, that could be some of your issues.

Yeah I still need to check alignment for this pump. If you look back in this thread you can see that I did get the 148 pump flush all the way around and concentric to the shoe.
 
Location
ATL
how longs the skat pump been on there?
If you're not having issues, sometimes it's best to let things find their happy home just in general

pulling the whole ski to chase phantoms isn't always the most fun
 
how longs the skat pump been on there?
If you're not having issues, sometimes it's best to let things find their happy home just in general

pulling the whole ski to chase phantoms isn't always the most fun

No, I just removed my 148 pump and now i'm installing my old Skat-Trak 144 Set-Back Mag. The 148 stator and "wear ring" were 1 piece. The Skat pump uses a stock wear ring. So, I never really looked at it like this. I know the 148 was concentric to the shoe when I aligned it and because it was a 1 piece design, you couldn't look through it like you can with just the wear ring from the 144. So it is possible that it was always like this. I know the pump was aligned perfectly before and while it was aligned, the shoe was concentric all the way around. It is completely possible this was a slight mistake from when the hull was originally made. All the 2014 Trash hulls were hand laid in Australia. Im not gonna play games with it, if I can align the pump im just gonna run it.
 
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