I'm storing my FX1 in a non-climate controlled boat house in Michigan for the winter. I revved the engine for a few seconds while it was out of the water to blow out the water box and exhaust, ran fuel treatment through the tank, disconnected the fuel line from the carb and let it run until it quit to suck all the gas out, and disconnected the battery. I then took the hose off of the water outlet on the side of the hull and poured about 1-2 quarts of antifreeze down the line to fill the crankcase. However now I'm wondering, did that antifreeze actually make it into the crankcase or did it go into the exhaust manifold? Is there a different way that I should add antifreeze? I've never had to winterize my ski before so I kind of did it on the fly but now I'm worried that it might not be enough.
How to add antifreeze to crankcase?
- Thread starter streetroc
- Start date
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Yamaha's engines are self draining , which means they don't hold water in the cylinders , no skis out there have water in the crankcases now, the last to do so were older Polaris skis with Fugi engines and Seadoos with the yellow 587 motor , that's all the way back in 1991 for Seadoo and I believe 92 or 93 on the Polaris skis, Yamahas have never had water in the crankcase.
Enough of the history lesson , if you want to put antifreeze in it take the line loose from the top of the head and put it in there , but it will basically all run back out on the floor .
My advice take the line off on the head and blow out the fitting on the head with an air compressor , that will assure you that all the water is out of the engine.
Enough of the history lesson , if you want to put antifreeze in it take the line loose from the top of the head and put it in there , but it will basically all run back out on the floor .
My advice take the line off on the head and blow out the fitting on the head with an air compressor , that will assure you that all the water is out of the engine.
I'm already back home in Georgia but my dad is still up at the lake and I could have him do that. Is it really necessary though?
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Probably not but for the amount of time it will actually take to do it , I would just to be sure .
One other thing we would have to know what the bypass line is connected to to tell you where the antifreeze ended up at .
schicks
Karma Enforcer
- Location
- West Michigan
I always pour some antifreeze in the water box as well.
- Location
- Sacramento Delta
I understand that water should not be in the crankcase.
But, how does the crankcase on a 701 2-stroke drain?
The exhaust manifold is up on the cylinder.
It is not connected to the crankcase.
What am I missing?
But, how does the crankcase on a 701 2-stroke drain?
The exhaust manifold is up on the cylinder.
It is not connected to the crankcase.
What am I missing?
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Wait what ?
The cylinders drain back out through the line from the pump that the water came in on , as to exactly what you are asking here I have no idea .
If you take a line loose at the top of the head and pour antifreeze into the fitting on the head the antifreeze will run out on the ground when it gets back to the pickup point on the pump , gravity is funny that way .
- Location
- Sacramento Delta
The title of the the thread is:
How to add antifreeze to crankcase?
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Read my first response , there is no water in the crankcase , if there is you have serious issues .
The only reason the first Seadoo and Polaris Fugi engines had water in the crankcases is because they were adapted from snowmobile engines which have radiators and they do circulate water through the crankcase on the Exhaust side of the cases .
More reading = less questions
The only reason the first Seadoo and Polaris Fugi engines had water in the crankcases is because they were adapted from snowmobile engines which have radiators and they do circulate water through the crankcase on the Exhaust side of the cases .
More reading = less questions
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Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
- Location
- Minnesota
To add: the upper case on Krash KV997 engines are water cooled. I don't know about the newer engines they have, but I'm sure it's the same. When I owned one, it blew a base gasket over the first winter because this was not a known thing yet.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Not that familiar with those but I do know that engine also was adapted from a snowmobile engine .
I will say this though any motor that is put in at a slant , Seadoo 787's , 951's , Yamaha 800's , Kawasaki Ultra two smokers, all of those hold water in the cylinders and if you don't put antifreeze in them they will freeze and bust something fo sho .
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ErieOne
Great Lakes
- Location
- Painesville, Ohio
+1 on using compressed air to blow out your cooling lines. This can also help push the antifreeze thru a bit. Also good to put some in the waterbox as preciously mentioned.
I know off topic from anti freeze but it's a good idea to fog the motor especially when the temps are fluctuating and condensation builds up.
I store in unheated garage in NE OH and always overkill my winterization just in case. Then I'm less worried when it's -5 outside and I'm on the slopes!
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I know off topic from anti freeze but it's a good idea to fog the motor especially when the temps are fluctuating and condensation builds up.
I store in unheated garage in NE OH and always overkill my winterization just in case. Then I'm less worried when it's -5 outside and I'm on the slopes!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Fogging oil is never overkill, it's just good common sense , what doesn't make any sense at all is not winterizing your ski , did you forget how much money you have tied up in your ski , the chemicals to winterize a ski cost maybe $30.00 - $40.00 for everything and will winterize your ski for many years to come and the whole process takes maybe 10- 15 minutes.
I used to make a lot of money winterizing skis every year , but no matter how much I preach it to customers it becomes less and less each year , for some reason these guys think four strokers don't need to be winterized , I know if I had $20,000 - $30,000 tied up in a ski I would damn sure winterize it , rust on cylinder walls, rings and valves is not a pretty sight .
These guys are parking those skis over the Winter , no winterization, no oil change , no nothing , they are not even blowing the water out of the exhaust which is where all the condensation and rust problems originate from , then they are fully expecting them to crank and run again next year , maybe they will , maybe they won't .
I do know this for a fact , I make way more money repairing them because they were not winterized than I do winterizing them and the guys that do winterize - summerize every year, I don't see those guys for the rest of the year , the proof is in the pudding .
One more thing of note , if it had antifreeze in the cases pouring it in through the head fitting would get it there , all you are doing with antifreeze is trying to mix or displace whatever water is still in the there so it won't bust when it freezes , the stuff I do use antifreeze on I pour it into the engine till it runs out the back of the ski and it is pink , as soon as you see that you are good to go .
The best setup I ever used was a garden sprayer, I put a different hose on it and had some adaptors for different size hoses and one for a garden hose for the Seadoo four strokes , you put a gallon of antifreeze in the sprayer , mine had a cut off on it so you pump it up then release the pressure with the cutoff valve and it forced antifreeze through the whole system in a matter of seconds , this worked better than the gravity method and was much faster , as soon as it comes out pink out the back shut it off .
I used to make a lot of money winterizing skis every year , but no matter how much I preach it to customers it becomes less and less each year , for some reason these guys think four strokers don't need to be winterized , I know if I had $20,000 - $30,000 tied up in a ski I would damn sure winterize it , rust on cylinder walls, rings and valves is not a pretty sight .
These guys are parking those skis over the Winter , no winterization, no oil change , no nothing , they are not even blowing the water out of the exhaust which is where all the condensation and rust problems originate from , then they are fully expecting them to crank and run again next year , maybe they will , maybe they won't .
I do know this for a fact , I make way more money repairing them because they were not winterized than I do winterizing them and the guys that do winterize - summerize every year, I don't see those guys for the rest of the year , the proof is in the pudding .
One more thing of note , if it had antifreeze in the cases pouring it in through the head fitting would get it there , all you are doing with antifreeze is trying to mix or displace whatever water is still in the there so it won't bust when it freezes , the stuff I do use antifreeze on I pour it into the engine till it runs out the back of the ski and it is pink , as soon as you see that you are good to go .
The best setup I ever used was a garden sprayer, I put a different hose on it and had some adaptors for different size hoses and one for a garden hose for the Seadoo four strokes , you put a gallon of antifreeze in the sprayer , mine had a cut off on it so you pump it up then release the pressure with the cutoff valve and it forced antifreeze through the whole system in a matter of seconds , this worked better than the gravity method and was much faster , as soon as it comes out pink out the back shut it off .
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