Recent content by w/rpm500

You can also buy the industry standardized o-ring sizes on line ... I will post the site here tonight, when i get home. My home town ACE hardware carries them,in viton materials...... (a good plumbing supply house will too)

I had an o/e done for the 500 by PROTEC... It had approx 1/2 lb removed ..some off the face,about 1/16th's thickness,thou not all the way to the hub,where the above tread shows its not a good area to cut... some off the outer edge... about 1/8 thick there.. the radius that was once there is...

weld a ROD like the topof a 'T', to the bolt and spin it back and forth, try to turn it in some ,to work some penetrant oils down there

Has any one used INOX spray lubricants?I found a can here that the over head door guy says is some great stuff.... looks to be near the same stuff as CRC- MARINE 656 .. Any comments from Aussy riders as to its use on ski's?

I cut back on the leading edge of an old tore up 650 impeller, approx. 1/2 inch, then tapered it in... motor spun up quicker and seemed a bit faster too

not a thread theft....related. The 760 in my Gp is using stock 1200 reeds and cages with the Riva spacer/R&D manifold.. would the V-force reed's improve this to the same degree as the 701?... The 1200 reeds are longer than stock 760's so it is 'breathing' better already..IMT the v-force...

possible stuck ring's on the nasty one (IMT the clean one was the one that had 140 the 70 lb one was dirtyer one)

IMT all the later yamaha ski's use the same size key .

This is my first reply to this .. was the crank checked for 'true' before it went to sbt?or at any time during all this? .. if were out of line, would this not make the crank rock?.. A tolerance 'stacking' issue ,IMT, would or could also play a part... just my .02 cents...

could you just bridge across it with a plate or wire to two other bolts or pad it so as not to have pull the engine out till ready?

you will have to split the case, the cutting tool for the insert will be bigger than the half the bolt goes thru(lower half?)... you could cut it all the way thru to the other half but its not right...

Read this whole post.. looks like you need to check that laberinth seal dia. before ever installing a crank... it may also be machined to small and let gases bypass to the other cylinder ... note....The W/R's used a spring steel ring centered on the laberinth ,that sat also in a groove cut...

I'd use hylomar HPF.. its a gasket sealer and has grease's properties all in one .in tube and spray for large surfaces (spray for paper only, stops wicking) Permatex sells it too , auto zone carries it ..great stuff

looks like a wr impeller(sorry.. i dont need it for my wr's ) yamaha's early ss impellers are usually mark'd somewhere..... whats the diameter??? Solas I'd guess made em for Yamaha under contract . looks as thou some one did a back cut on the leading edge,(not factory wr)

thanks waxhead and matt e, this is the refinement of numbers I'm looking for.. hopefully this will help other users of these carbs, on twins, into the ballpark with an initial tune spec. IMT The tripple cyl YAMI ski's have a basic SET,as in reguards to this ..On the GHYami, you can ask...