The water adjusting screws on the headpipe control where the pipe makes it's peak hp.
"Traditionally, if you wanted low RPM torque and high RPM horsepower, it required
several pipes. A few of our competitors cast rings into their pipes to achieve pipe tuning by Acut
and try.@ In 1992 Factory...
I wouldn't think the spraybar would make any difference. You could try running both chambers and find out for yourself and let us know. You could make the "L" bracket yourself or some people say they run without it without any problems.
I printed a zero and -2 and I liked the quick steering but they made the ski porpoise so I went back to stock. I have modified the design to make it stock length and inner diameter but haven't tried it yet.
I have a valve on the water intake on my Blaster. I used a 3/8" ball valve and I drilled it open more to increase the flow. The valve doesn't seal %100 after I drilled it out but doesn't need to. It's also handy for flushing. If you tow slow you won't need it. I was concerned that I might forget...
I bought my 94 fx1 in 97 from the original owner. He already had the pipe on it but it had a split in it. I had it welded but it split again. I called factory pipe to see if they could fix it. They told me to return it and shipped me a brand new chamber. The new chamber had a brace inside that...
That's interesting. I would think if you only owned the thicker manifold you could have it machined down to get the pipe to fit.
edit: I just measured my manifolds. the fx1 is 9mm thick in that area and my waveblaster is 12mm.