Best Parts for acceleration.... ??

Zeon

Zeon

WNY Crew
Location
Buffalo, NY/ Crystal beach, Ontario
Ok so now ive had alot of fun with my 03 superjet with an impeller, intake grate, and pipe. but really now im starting to crave more power/acceleration...

im not looking to go faster just looking to launch the ski out of the water faster for some bigger air.


What do you guys recomend to step up to next???? i was looking at aftermarket flame arrestors, waterboxs, r@d head i have but waiting to put on, and a few other things.. but really im not sure what step to go next


what do you guys think ? anything


thanks , i know you guys can help me out. always do
 
Sanford

Sanford

ECF
Location
Freeride capital of the world
Leave stock F/A alone. Don't bother with an aftermarket waterbox. Provided you have a good prop and are using the Factory B pipe, the next bang for the buck add on will be higher compression and reeds (CarbonTech or Boysen Pro Series). If you increase compression and add reeds, I suggest you increase your L/S jet 5#'s
 
Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
skip the flame arrestor and water box.

lighten your flywheel, advance the timing a bit, pipe, and more compression.

Bore your nozzle, or ad a stubby cone, LOW pitched impeller.
 
Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
Not sure, I did it at the same time as advancing the timing.

together, they make a noticeable difference.

its CHEAP like well under $100 including shipping for LPW to lighten it, and you can FEEL the difference in your hand weight wise, compared to stock. and its free to slide the ignition pickup while you have the flywheel off.
 
LBE

LBE

Eddie Would Go.
Location
Charlotte, NC
Mouthfulloflake said:
skip the flame arrestor and water box.

lighten your flywheel, advance the timing a bit, pipe, and more compression.

Bore your nozzle, or ad a stubby cone, LOW pitched impeller.
Click to expand...

WORD!

Lighen your stock flywheel for $55 via Pro Tec, while thats off advance your timing 2-3 deg (free). Remove your stock rev limiter (free), and get a pump cone $50. $100 and you will have a bit more kick.

I swear by the lightened flywheel and pump cone, for best bang for the buck. For a little $$ you have a noticable difference.

I know this sounds dumb, but get a new factory throtle cable. I started replacing the throtle cable every season. A fresh cable will make the ski feel snappy. You will be amazed how the ski feels when the throtle response is instant.
 
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T

ToddW

Web GuY
Location
Folsom Lake - CA
LBE said:
WORD!

Lighen your stock flywheel for $55 via Pro Tec, while thats off advance your timing 2-3 deg (free). Remove your stock rev limiter (free), and get a pump cone $50. $100 and you will have a bit more kick.

I swear by the lightened flywheel and pump cone, for best bang for the buck. For a little $$ you have a noticable difference.

I know this sounds dumb, but get a new factory throtle cable. I started replacing the throtle cable every season. A fresh cable will make the ski feel snappy. You will be amazed how the ski feels when the throtle response is instant.
Click to expand...

How come they sell for $500 flywheels if a $55 modification to your factory one is good? I'm curious, not being a dick :biggthumpup:
 
E

EvanB85

Team Poseur
Location
Tacoma, WA, USA
xeon said:
are flame arrestors a waste of money? they look bad ass on the ski and i know air flow is always key with motors but is it worth the 100 or so dollars for 2 flame arrestors and adaptors?
Click to expand...

nope. for the 2 or 3 hp you might gain, the chances of sucking in water are too great. The stock flame arrestor is the dryest out there.
 
LBE

LBE

Eddie Would Go.
Location
Charlotte, NC
xeon said:
are flame arrestors a waste of money? they look bad ass on the ski and i know air flow is always key with motors but is it worth the 100 or so dollars for 2 flame arrestors and adaptors?
Click to expand...

Dont waste your money.

Going to an after market filter will not add power in a watercraft, much different than a car. A stock watercraft flame arrestor is just wire mesh like the after market ones. No difference in air flow. In a watercraft (or even a boat for that mater) it is refered to as a "Flame arrestor" because it stops a flame in case of a back fire. There doesn't need to be a fine filtration system like a car, because there should be no dust on a lake or ocean, and by the time that stuff were to get in the motor compartment it would stick to the water arround the hull/motor. I'm not saying that there is no filtration provided, but it is much more minimal than on a car.

It seems funny when people put a K&N on a ski, because #1 the finer pores make it more restrictive #2 the filter is made of cotton, just absorbs water.

I had a set of Tau Ceti's on my B1, the stock filter actually had a more porus mesh, prob flowed more air.
 
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