bilge pump quesition

[demolition_x]

5200 is marine adhesive like caulking.

home depot has it where silly glue is and walmart usually has it where marine stuff is.

 

[EvanB85]

looks lieka tight spot in there!!

VERY tight. Actually I came down hard off a wave on Friday... pulled the coupler cover later and saw that the coupler had gone and cut a nice little slice out of the bilge pump housing. No big deal, it needed to be trimmed down a bit anyways.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...cts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler

 

[Sailin817]

Why do the switches shock you in Saltwater? Ive noticed this problem too. It actually electrified my whole ski. NOT a fun ride back in.

 

[meatball]

water doesnt collect electricity, its the minerals and SALTS in it that do. Salt carries the electricity a lot better then fresh.

 

[CarFanatic]

how are these?

http://www.legdrag.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=146

here is a switch

http://www.legdrag.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=4

or this one
http://www.boatersland.com/rule25d.html

 

[demolition_x]

i thought you ordered a pump?

best bet. goto walmart get 2 500gph atwoods. roughly 14 bucks a piece. get a 12 volt toggle switch with 2 6" leads and cover the whole thing in silicone and buy a rubber boot for the outside of the switch or just use the fuse holder as the switch.

you can get bilge line at lowes its cheap, and you have to get an aluminum fitting for the hull which is like 10 bucks

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

those switches are well liked by alot of folks, but ive got one that went bad.
no telling how old though ( it looks OLD) and came on an early 90s boat.

I like the $10 atwood 500GPH from walmart.

or $12 online if you have some corporate phobia like alot of folks.

:biggthumpup:

how are these?

http://www.legdrag.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=146

here is a switch

http://www.legdrag.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=4

 

[CarFanatic]

I hate walmart! but often am forced to go.

both fit no problem next to the drive shaft? also where do you guys mount the switches?

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

you can mount 2 below the shaft with no problems, keep the output and hose routing in mind when gluing them down.

ive put the switches in a hole on the left side of the dash opposite the fuel selector hole.

I hate walmart! but often am forced to go.

both fit no problem next to the drive shaft? also where do you guys mount the switches?

 

[demolition_x]

yep i put a hole right next to the primer on the left.

just make sure when you glue them down that you make sure the pump outlet clears the hull enough to get some tubing over it. mines pretty close.

 

[CarFanatic]

cool! YOu run the tubing into a t fiting then out the hole or do you drill 2 holes?

thanks for all your help guys! :biggrin:

 

[demolition_x]

i think each pump should have its own outlet.

if one pump dies water will just recirculate in the bilge.

 

[LBE]

i think each pump should have its own outlet.

if one pump dies water will just recirculate in the bilge.

Yes, you want to run two seperate lines.

I had a barmount switch for a while, then it went bad. I will probably pick up one of those rotary switches tho. Right now I have a male/female plug right by the batt that I hook up before heading out.

The Wallywold pump has a base piece that you can glue down and then snap the pump on that. The 3m stuff is not necessary, any epoxy should work. I would also get a piece of 80 grit sandpaper and rough up where the base will be glued down. Actually I would sand the bottom of the bracket as well.

I have run both Rule and Attwood pumps. I have found that if you leave the Rule pumps running constant, they burn up. Attwood also has a 3 year warranty!

 

[keefer]

Stay away from the automatics, the ones I have seen only check every 1.5 to 2 minutes. You could fill half the bilge in that time. I have a Rule 500 that is 12 years old and it still works. Some say that the attwood is less prone to airlocking but it is a bigger housing. I like the Rule 500 because you can fit one on each side of the mid shaft. The best switch in the business is the Honeywell / Microswitch military grade sealed switch. It is a dash mount type so I recommend the version that JSS sells with a shortened bat. I have had one for 7+ years and it still works fine. Give John a call at JSS after you check it out at http://www.jetskisolutions.com/switch.htm

 

[Speedfreak]

I will get a picture of my install tomorrow. I glued 2 atwood pumps under the driveshaft with the housings touching each discharge heading up the very back corner of the bulkhead and straight out the top corner.

I will get pictures.

 

[CarFanatic]

sweet! Thanks for all the help!

Anyone use those blowsoin plates to mount the bilges?

 

[Boris]

sweet! Thanks for all the help!

Anyone use those blowsoin plates to mount the bilges?

Just save your money and glue down the 2 Attwoods.
They fit in perfect and work decent for the $$$$$.

I'm on my last switch right now (a WATERPROOF switch from a boat store). Since they all fail in the salt, once this one dies I will go back to just pulling the fuses.

 

[Speedfreak]

Just save your money and glue down the 2 Attwoods.

a WATERPROOF switch from a boat store

I agree I bought a waterproof handle bar mounted switch for $80 it has lasted 2 years but when it goes out I will use a waterproof rubber boot on the outside and a large pile of sillicone that covers the switch it on the inside.

 

[keefer]

I know that the JSS is $24 but like I said a couple posts up, this switch will last for years if you don't physically break off the bat. These things are military grade and completely sealed. I have tried the rest and this is the best. Worth a few more $$ IMO http://www.jetskisolutions.com/switch.htm