What clear resin to use with carbon fiber????

ski_crazy

ISJWTA member #5
Location
Holts Summit, MO
Like the title says. I'm looking to lay some c/f on the inside of my hull and I don't want to use the yellowish/orange color fiberglass resin. I need something clear. What does everybody use?
 

Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
so just roll it on until you get it how you want it or?

And for the hell of it, can you wetsand/ buff out epoxy without pigment in it, like how you can buff gelcoat? Will it buff out to a clear coae type finish?
 

ANT

Just ride
Doesnt really matter what you use your not going to be able to tell the difference between a blush color or clear with carbon fiber. Use west system it's strong and it will look like carbon. I used West System to Re-enforce and lay carbon in my ski, here are two pictures from when it was in the process for proof.
 

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ski_crazy

ISJWTA member #5
Location
Holts Summit, MO
I have already gone through a gallon of the epoxy resin from US Composites. Its kind of got a yellow tint to it after it dries. I doubt it would really show up that bad when laid over the black c/f. I just need to order more.
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
The initial layer of reinforcement should be epoxy, so it sticks to the SMC.

Then you can use surfboard resin for the final layers without any problems.

Also a lot of people put the final layer of cf on real dry just for the bling. :afro:
 

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
I think a wet layer of surf board reasin on the top is more bling than dry.

also make sure you have it UV protected with a clear paint.
 

oxnard111

Creative RE Purchasing
Thats what I was thinking. Put a layer of fiberglass mat down first and then do the c/f over with minimal resin on top of it.

thats how mine was applied. kinda hard to explain, but the guy at the shop told me how to apply it. Here it goes



First coat. Brush on resin lightly. Fill in all voids in the carbon fiber. Blot the brush to eliminate air bubbles. Then use one of those hand plastic squeegee's to take away all excess resin. Let that first coat set up for about 45 mins. This gives you your finishing layer something to bit onto.

Next take your brush and apply the resin across from left to right starting on either the top or bottom and cover the whole side.

Next take your brush and starting from the side work your way up and down applying a little more resin on each stroke, but before your next stroke be sure to clean your brush off with a non linty rag. This ensures that less contaminants get in the resin, like bristles and such.

Lastly, your going to work from left to right again. With just the pressure of the brush, you want to very very lightly drag your brush from the start to the end of your surface. This will smooth everything you've down previously out.

The epoxy is self leveling, so it will dry smooth to the touch.

I think a wet layer of surf board reasin on the top is more bling than dry.

also make sure you have it UV protected with a clear paint.

I believe that if you use that Aluzine stuff, that you don't have to apply a clear coat. I may be wrong, though. :dunno:
 
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thegoldenboy

RN Surgery... soon
Location
Toronto
Forget the aluzine, it will yellow under UV expose too. At least thats what I read here once. Why spend the $ though....

Use regular epoxy resin. Whatever brand, I have used West and it dried pretty clear. AVS also, has a bit of a blush tinge to it, I didn't mind, looked fine dry.

Light sand with a high grit paper, hit it with a couple coats of Automotive clear.

Even automotive clear in a rattle can should do the trick.
 

oxnard111

Creative RE Purchasing
Forget the aluzine, it will yellow under UV expose too. At least thats what I read here once. Why spend the $ though....

Use regular epoxy resin. Whatever brand, I have used West and it dried pretty clear. AVS also, has a bit of a blush tinge to it, I didn't mind, looked fine dry.

Light sand with a high grit paper, hit it with a couple coats of Automotive clear.

Even automotive clear in a rattle can should do the trick.

Guy at the shop told me it wouldn't yellow, but who knows???

It wasn't any more expensive than the equivalent amount of regular epoxy... but you do have to purchase two different kits, so I guess that is where it gets more expensive.

A quart kit 2:1 was only $29 and that would cover all the interior carbon on 3 whole skis or more. It goes a long way.
 
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