Symptoms of a stuck needle and seat???

Mike W

Mike W

Infidel
Location
North Florida
Today I water tested my ski after getting it back together and it ran OK for about 10 minutes. I noticed a slight hesitation but I was trying to tune it out. When I made an adjustment on the HS screw it just took a dump. It would start but it wouldn't rev above idle unless I feathered the throttle. I turned the h/s speed screw back where it was but it still had no power whatosever and still ran like crap like it was not getting fuel. I checked the spark plugs and one looked black and dry, the other was black and wet. Brand new plugs by the way. I put the spark plugs back in and rode it 15 seconds back to the boat ramp and rechecked the plugs. One diode on one plug was "washed" clean. I thought it might be a blown O ring or cracked dome but I removed the head when I got home and the O rings and domes looked fine.
I went thru the carbs and they looked good as well. There were no blockages and the internal fuel filters were clean. Popoff was clean and crisp at 42psi.
I checked the reeds and they were ok as well. However I did notice some excess gas in one of the reed cages. The only thing I could think that happened was a needle got stuck open but I don't really know. I didn't think to look down the carbs while it was running and check for excess fuel. I did notice ALOT of black crud around the exhaust. It was running WAY too rich but with my jetting(see below) I didnt see how. I checked all the fuel lines and I checked the one way valve on the fuel tank. Would a bad CDI show the same symptom?
It's back together and it is idling fine but I plan to ride it again tomorrow. Just trying to get it 100% for Daytona so any help is appreciated.
Here is my jetting:
72.5 Pilot
135 Main
95 gm spring
1.5 n/s (42 psi popoff)
Stock FA
 
Last edited:
keefer

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
Measure across the plug wires with an ohm meter on the 20k ohm scale. You should read about 14k ohms if you have NGK resistor plug caps. If you have stock or MSD plug caps then you should read between 3.5 to 4.7k ohms. Wiggle the wires while testing and see if you lose connection. Usually breaks occur near the plug caps but sometimes near where they go into the Ebox. If the wires are broken too far back to be trimmed then have them replaced with good 20 strand wires. RD can do it for you cheaper than buying a new coil.
 
Mike W

Mike W

Infidel
Location
North Florida
keefer said:
Measure across the plug wires with an ohm meter on the 20k ohm scale. You should read about 14k ohms if you have NGK resistor plug caps. If you have stock or MSD plug caps then you should read between 3.5 to 4.7k ohms. Wiggle the wires while testing and see if you lose connection. Usually breaks occur near the plug caps but sometimes near where they go into the Ebox. If the wires are broken too far back to be trimmed then have them replaced with good 20 strand wires. RD can do it for you cheaper than buying a new coil.
Click to expand...

Turned out to be a bad spark plug boot. when I went to pull one of the boots off the wire it wan't even connected to the coil section that goes over the spark plug. I replaced them with some MSD boots I had and it runs like a champ.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom