- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
Ok fine. The ports are covered about 7.14285714285714285714285 %. Better? :biggrin:
Sleeve dropping Question
- Thread starter djkorn1
- Start date
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
DJ, hard to get a clear view, but from what I can see by the second pic. You will definately need to reset the sleeve!! It looks like you are rotated too far out of alignment.
You have stated you seated the sleeve in 1211? If you did do this, you will need to remove the sleeve , clean the sleeve & bore, the reset!!
If you heat the cyl to at least 450 deg, it should give you enough time to align properly..........
ski ya, Paul
You have stated you seated the sleeve in 1211? If you did do this, you will need to remove the sleeve , clean the sleeve & bore, the reset!!
If you heat the cyl to at least 450 deg, it should give you enough time to align properly..........
ski ya, Paul
63chevyll
#56
- Location
- in my garage, colorado
Prob not the answer he wanted to hear?, but if thats the right way.
BTW, what is 1211? lube? should the cly been installed dry
i dont know all this code talk, 5252 ect..
BTW, what is 1211? lube? should the cly been installed dry
i dont know all this code talk, 5252 ect..
- Location
- Pueblo, CO
Threebond #1211 silicone liquid gasket
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Usually you can reheat the cylinder and slighty bump the sleeve at the bottom to correct the alignment,just did one yesterday on a 760 Yammer and had to do that.
That is true, as long as the interferance fit was correctly bored.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
I say I say uhhh you are soooooooooooooo right.
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
Yeah, I am pretty bummed. Not what I wanted to hear, but I do appreciate the advice. Paul rocks.
The hole was bored .003-.004 smaller than the OD of the sleeve. This sleeve still will not move. My brother said he has had time to move sleeves on Seadoos and Yamis before after they are dropped, however, Kawi's leave part of the stock sleeve in there (below the counterbore). The aluminum of a cyllinder expands alot more than the steel of the stock sleeve. Anyway, sleeve will not move at all. We heated the ******** out of it in an oven and with 2 torches. I even tried to rotate it with a 4 foot crowbar while it was hot. As soon as we dropped it, it was NOT moving. It will have to be cut out. I might just junk the cyllinder at this point, or maybe just try porting both sides the best I can (widen the ports), run it at Daytona, and rip it back down and then put the new cyllinder in after the trip.
As long as it won't blow my crank, I might as well run it for the three days. It might not run so hot, but what can ya do? What do you guys think?
We only used the tiniest bit of high temp gasket maker... on the counterbore to hold the cyllinder from raising up during cooling. We also set a big weight on it. According to measurements, it is all the way down, just rotated. :banghead::banghead: Any other comments or suggestions are always appreciated.
The hole was bored .003-.004 smaller than the OD of the sleeve. This sleeve still will not move. My brother said he has had time to move sleeves on Seadoos and Yamis before after they are dropped, however, Kawi's leave part of the stock sleeve in there (below the counterbore). The aluminum of a cyllinder expands alot more than the steel of the stock sleeve. Anyway, sleeve will not move at all. We heated the ******** out of it in an oven and with 2 torches. I even tried to rotate it with a 4 foot crowbar while it was hot. As soon as we dropped it, it was NOT moving. It will have to be cut out. I might just junk the cyllinder at this point, or maybe just try porting both sides the best I can (widen the ports), run it at Daytona, and rip it back down and then put the new cyllinder in after the trip.
As long as it won't blow my crank, I might as well run it for the three days. It might not run so hot, but what can ya do? What do you guys think?
We only used the tiniest bit of high temp gasket maker... on the counterbore to hold the cyllinder from raising up during cooling. We also set a big weight on it. According to measurements, it is all the way down, just rotated. :banghead::banghead: Any other comments or suggestions are always appreciated.
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WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
They only other suggestion I have is to make up some kind of device to put pressure on it the way you want it to turn ,possibly a big c-clamp,then put it back in the oven and heat the piss out of it
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
Thanks, Wedoseadoo. We allready tried that. Heated it up to 500 degrees and then put two torches on it to get it even hotter. I used a 4ft. crowbar and pulled as hard as I could. It had tons of leverage and that sucker wouldn't move. It's not going anywhere unless it gets cut out.
Hey, if it doesn't run worth a crap, maybe I'll test ride some Watercraft Factory skis and some Superjets and you guys will convert me to the dark side.
Hey, if it doesn't run worth a crap, maybe I'll test ride some Watercraft Factory skis and some Superjets and you guys will convert me to the dark side.
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douglee25
m3booooy
- Location
- South Jersey
Do you have a press? Could it be heated and pressed out? I did this once before and I just heated it and dropped it onto a wood board. It popped right out. 0.003 - 0.004" press fit may have been slightly too small. Is that what was recommended?
Doug
Doug
63chevyll
#56
- Location
- in my garage, colorado
DJ,
I might be willing to part with an SXR Cyl, if you need one. It needs a sleeve tho
Your right, Port it and run it? I dont see how that would blow your crank out,
I might be willing to part with an SXR Cyl, if you need one. It needs a sleeve tho
Your right, Port it and run it? I dont see how that would blow your crank out,
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
Thanks Chevy, but your cyllinder is in the same shape as mine :haha::haha:. They both need a sleeve... we'll see how my brother's and my porting skills are 
biggrin. If it doesn't run worth a crap, nothing really lost except some time. We'll throw it in the test tank and see what happens! Might as well take a shot at it! My main goal is just to get it runnin for Daytona. After that, I'll gut it again. I have 5 months until riding season in Cleveland.
biggrin. If it doesn't run worth a crap, nothing really lost except some time. We'll throw it in the test tank and see what happens! Might as well take a shot at it! My main goal is just to get it runnin for Daytona. After that, I'll gut it again. I have 5 months until riding season in Cleveland.
63chevyll
#56
- Location
- in my garage, colorado
you have til your break is over............
Mines over 2mro.......Party Over
Mines over 2mro.......Party Over
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
I know a lot of machine shops in Cleveland with presses. The only problem is that there is nowhere to press. The old sleeve and new sleeve are now fused together. There is nowhere on the bottom of the sleeve to push on. :banghead: Good idea, though. I am going to take a good look at it tonite. If there is a way we can get a press to push that baby out of the top of the cyllinder, I'll take it to TENK Machine in the morning. Those guys have a lot of presses. If not, out comes the dremel... :skull2::skull2::skull2:
My break is over on the 8th, too. Hoping to have the engine together and fired up by Sunday. Off to the test tank on Monday night.
My break is over on the 8th, too. Hoping to have the engine together and fired up by Sunday. Off to the test tank on Monday night.
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Here is a last ditch for you.................
Get dry ice!!!
re-heat the cyl to 500 deg. Take a old sock & fill it with dry ice. Stuff it in the sleeve.......... Hope for the best!!!
Caution::: wear gloves when handeling the ice!!!!!
If you succeed & remove the sleeve...... Ditch it & get a new one.....
Hone the bore of the casting & go for a .002-.003 interferance
try again ! The key I have found is to be paitent & think out your moves in advance.
ski ya, Paul
Get dry ice!!!
re-heat the cyl to 500 deg. Take a old sock & fill it with dry ice. Stuff it in the sleeve.......... Hope for the best!!!
Caution::: wear gloves when handeling the ice!!!!!
If you succeed & remove the sleeve...... Ditch it & get a new one.....
Hone the bore of the casting & go for a .002-.003 interferance
try again ! The key I have found is to be paitent & think out your moves in advance.
ski ya, Paul
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
Thanks for the help, Paul, and everyone else. I appreciate all the suggestions and ideas. :cool2:
We were taking a close look at it and brainstorming and we found some cracks in the sleeve from trying to turn it the last time. They are small, but big enough that we're not going to run it. They weren't visible before it was bored but now they are all the way through. I am going to call it a loss and consider the cyllinder a big ol' anchor. :banghead:
I am just gonna get a new stock cyllinder in a few weeks and then the entire motor will all be fresh. Thanks for everyone's help. I'll see you all in Daytona.
We were taking a close look at it and brainstorming and we found some cracks in the sleeve from trying to turn it the last time. They are small, but big enough that we're not going to run it. They weren't visible before it was bored but now they are all the way through. I am going to call it a loss and consider the cyllinder a big ol' anchor. :banghead:
I am just gonna get a new stock cyllinder in a few weeks and then the entire motor will all be fresh. Thanks for everyone's help. I'll see you all in Daytona.
w-nut
x2 nut
- Location
- christchurch new zealand
if you do ditch the cylinder dj let me know i might be intrested in buying it off you for a wee project im planning