Possible causes?

[michaelbrenner]

I'm the guy! My ski handles like crap. I know superjets might not handle the best but John's stays planed and doesn't nose steer and stays hooked up. We have nearly identical skis. My pump is shimmed 1 shim on the back bolts. I've been playing with the ride plate trying to shim this away by getting it more nose down. please any other ideas? I'm going to have to get an 08 soon if I can't get this thing dialed in.

 

[John_Ciocca]

do you guys have the same paint color and decals? that must be it!

Now you're starting to understand the frustration we have.....nobody knows....it's just some stange thing...everything seems to be setup correctly. I guess we are just hoping someone on the board has seen something like this and shows us the light.

 

[WaveDemon]

I have never ridden 2 superjets that felt the same. I think thats the nature of things. try shimming the ride plate or GETTING the foam wet

 

[John_Ciocca]

We know they won't "feel" the same...we know every ski feels different. We just want the "Bucking Bronco" syndrome to go away.

 

[WaveDemon]

if it's that bad I'd look into an alignment issue.

 

[John_Ciocca]

You mean motor to driveshaft?

 

[WaveDemon]

You mean motor to driveshaft?

pump alignment with the hull.

 

[John_Ciocca]

The pump is keyed (in the front), How can that be misaligned?

 

[WaveDemon]

The pump is keyed (in the front), How can that be misaligned?

verically.

take out the pump and make sure there is no swollen fiberglass where the pump mounts. make sure the pump is level with the ski. there are shims you can put between the pump and the hull.

 

[John_Ciocca]

Mike,

It looks like the only possible answers everybody has is to verify the pump vertical alignment is sound (no fiberglass bulges) and verify the foam is not waterlogged causing a little too much weight in the rear.

A longer ride plate along with fine tuning the pivot cam should help. We can add weight under the gas tank to offset the weight in the rear (just to troubleshoot).

JC

 

[michaelbrenner]

Still don't get it. I'm open to suggestions, but really, is a 0.030" shim added to the front of the pump going to transform that handling? Again people, it feels like the nose won't stay down for what ever reason, even with the nozzle adjusted full down angle, also, with the nozzle adjusted like that there are funky side effects like midspeed loss of hookup and strange handling characteristics in general. Also, I'm NOT open to adding 10 lbs to the nose, that's just lame. I'll trade in for an SXR if I want a heavy POS to blast through chop, I think this thing should be able to inspire confidence at 45 mph and at 15. By the way, my ski still feels faster John, even though it isn't! I think that's the tuning in progress of the needles.....

 

[Fro Diesel]

So you have made sure that the bolts to the intake grate and ride plate are all sound...weird, i had same problem when the intake grate bolts came loose, but you would have gotten around that by now. I would just put on an extended rideplate and see if that helps. Very peculiar, i will be watching this thread.


Check out the intake grate one more time, could be a tweaked intake grate or something bend up there.

 

[michaelbrenner]

Protec ride plate installed. I like it a lot actually, gets on plane sooner and stays on plane sooner, I like the handling at lower speeds better. The porpoising is still there but it only does it at say more than 60% throttle and over 40 mph. Still weird.

Strange question: I have the plastic reduction nozzle, skat trak swirl 12/17 cutback, worx 201 grate, protec rideplate. Could the plastic reduction nozzle be installed upside down? is there any kind of angle to the plastic reduction nozzle? difference in turning nozzle bolt mounting locations from top to bottom or is that nozzle exactly symetrical? I'm really scratching for an answer now.

And on a side note, I need a metal reduction nozzle anyway cuz I would like to have my stock bilge back in working condition! (I plugged my old bilge system with JB weld and blueprinted the pump aswell.......anyone have a reduction nozzle for sale?

 

[kevbo]

Make sure your rideplate is shimmed so that the rear edge is just lower than the contour of the hull. Use a 4ft straight edge, you want to see some light in the middle with only the ends touching the hull.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

the waterlogged foam MIGHT make the boat handle better.

just a though, weigh them with similar amounts of fuel, and see how large of a difference there is.

After re-foaming my boat, it tool a little while to get used to riding it, the extra weight actually kept it more 'stable' in my opinion.

 

[superjet0587]

You could just get a new lightweight 08 24-7 hull and transfer all your parts over

 

[michaelbrenner]

So nobody answered my question. Are the plastic reduction nozzles symetrical. I guess I can take it off and flip it to see if that makes a difference.

Thanks for the Hull idea but that might be outta the budget.

 

[Big Kahuna]

try shimming the plate down. also, to see if one is waterlogged, weight both of them with empty gas tanks and batteries removed.

 

[michaelbrenner]

I guess I'm going to order the protec reduction nozzle since used ones aren't coming up available for less than half the price of the protec.

My parts guy from hot products suggested confirming that the rideplate is flush with the line of the hull at the front of the rideplate and shimming if needed.

He also recommended trying a couple of s/s washers under the REAR mount of my worx 201 intake grate.

I will also stick a 0.015" shim in the rear of the pump to see if that affects it.

Anyone else wanna chime in here on possibilites of shimming, indexing, etc???

 

[Philip Clemmons]

Try putting the stock intake grate back on...............Humor me on this............I spoke with the owner of Jet Dynamics about this same issue on my ski. He feels some intake grates can force too much water into the pump at high speeds on calm water. These grates are designed for rough water or surf, and channel LOTS of water into the pump at speed on smooth stuff. Our skis are set up for bottom end and have mild impellers, which are unable to move all of this water out of the rear of the ski(out the pump). This results in water "rolling" back out of the intake grate and lifting the rear of the hull, hence the porpoising. Cant explain the differences in your two skis, but its certainly worth a try. If it goes away you know where to look............