Newbie - Help with motor suggestions! With pics!

bign1514

"Rock-Man"
Location
Louisville, Ky
I took the motor apart today, to find some interesting things. I am new to the 701 engines and need to know where to go next with it. I believe from my measurements thats is a 82mm bore with stock stroke.

The B-pipe on the ski was measured around 48mm - so the mod has been taken care of.

I am looking if the cycl. have been ported or not? I do not know what to look for - i posted some pics if anyone can point out anything.

I am also concerned on the pistons and sleeves. Looks like I've had some water ingestion. Do the pistons look like they need to be replaced? There is a few deep scores around the pistons and around the sleeves.

Should I be concerned on the bottom on the sleeve also? There is a chip off the sleeve on the intake side. I did some research on here and found some people recommend to cut a little arch in the bottom of the sleeve on the intake side. Can this sleeve still be saved?

Looking at the reeds, they all look pretty good, except the far right one. I broke in the conner some how. Anyone know what could of caused this? What is a good reed to buy (not taking all the money out of my wallet)??

Found my electric box already modified - any concern I should have?

The crank and everything else check out good. I have finally started this project and hopefully will have it running in the next few months. I can't wait to paint it and put some graphics on it. But first I have to get a motor running right. What do you guys suggest me doing? I am looking to spend as little as i can, but still have a good reliable motor. Any help would be greatly appericated. Thanks
 

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bign1514

"Rock-Man"
Location
Louisville, Ky
more pics
 

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bign1514

"Rock-Man"
Location
Louisville, Ky
more pics
 

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bign1514

"Rock-Man"
Location
Louisville, Ky
i am assuming from the CDI box that is has been modified. There is an epoxy filler where the cut would be made to modify it, based on my knowledge of this process. You can see the epoxy filler from the pic above.
 

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
Agreed, not ported.

If you look at the ports where the sleeves match up to the aluminum, if it were ported, even just cleanup porting, it would be a smooth transition and not have the 'step' where the sleeve is.
 

bign1514

"Rock-Man"
Location
Louisville, Ky
Thanks! I've been reading up on this porting job. Do you all suggest it as a D-I-Y job? I been reading stuff about the sportport templates, and wondering if this is something the average guy can do. I do have all the tools to do it with. Would you ported it before boring the cycl.? or after boring the cycl?? Wheres a good place to find these templates?
 

teton

tetongravity.com
Location
Washington DC
i was in the same boat as you...i ported mine myself and everyone said it turned out great, just make a template of the original ports, make them as wide as 70% your bore diameter get a dremel with an extension, some medium and fine grit sanding wheels (the kind with the rubber middle, and replaceable bands, and if you want it to be real nice some buffing wheels with compound and go to work.......just search for home porting in the tech section, its really not that bad (but i do have a pretty steady hand and a lot of patience) just dont forget to chamfer when your done.

oh and by the way its definitely time to replace those pistons and bore up

and you should probably take apart your crankcase to make sure none of those foreign sleeve pieces are floating around in there

good luck
 
Thanks! I've been reading up on this porting job. Do you all suggest it as a D-I-Y job? I been reading stuff about the sportport templates, and wondering if this is something the average guy can do. I do have all the tools to do it with. Would you ported it before boring the cycl.? or after boring the cycl?? Wheres a good place to find these templates?

port first, then bore. that way, if you slip with the porting tool, you wont damage a fresh bore. instead, youd clean up the slip-up by boring.
 
I would take it down to the cases for sure. Inspect the crank.

I would Re bore + two sizes with new pistons. Those pistons are smoked, and im sure the bore is very rough.

And make sure to get a new rubber gasket for your electrical box. That sand should not be in there.
 
I would take it down to the cases for sure. Inspect the crank.

I would Re bore + two sizes with new pistons. Those pistons are smoked, and im sure the bore is very rough.

And make sure to get a new rubber gasket for your electrical box. That sand should not be in there.


why would you rebore + 2 sizes?
 

bign1514

"Rock-Man"
Location
Louisville, Ky
Thanks guys for all the information. I have done a lot of readings and research these past few days on this site. All the information on this site, is awesome. Its great to have a community of guys who are willing to share their knowledge on the sport.

If the current bore is 82mm - some are saying to bore it 84mm? Where is a good place to get some pistons. I am trying to do this project in a costly manner, since I still have a lot of other stuff to do.

What size pistons should I go with?? Any clearance recommendations? I've read a lot on not to follow certain manufacturer pistons clearance recommendations? Any suggestions?
 
Thanks guys for all the information. I have done a lot of readings and research these past few days on this site. All the information on this site, is awesome. Its great to have a community of guys who are willing to share their knowledge on the sport.

If the current bore is 82mm - some are saying to bore it 84mm? Where is a good place to get some pistons. I am trying to do this project in a costly manner, since I still have a lot of other stuff to do.

What size pistons should I go with?? Any clearance recommendations? I've read a lot on not to follow certain manufacturer pistons clearance recommendations? Any suggestions?

i recommend pro-x pistons and follow their clearance recommendations.

i dont recommend boring more than you need to. it only means youll have less potential future bore jobs. just bore to the next available size up.
 

SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
Sflsurfrider, If the ski is set-up with mods (dual cooling,high compression head, aftermarket F/A, advanced timing/aftermarket CDI, etc, etc.) to the engine therefore it is not a stock engine...You 'CANNOT' follow the stock piston clearances!!@! On another note, get rid of the Pro-Tec head if it's the one piece head with o-ring grooves just cut into the head surface...they don't seal very well and when they don't, you chase the problem forever sometimes!
Give Radney a call (or email) for piston kit pricing and we can handle very precision bore work also.
TEAM SCREAM (New home of X-SCREAM)
1988 Carroll St.
Clearwater, Fl. 33765
(727)442-7700
xscream@tampabay.rr.com
 
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