300/440/550 Kawasaki 550js winter Project

[guyph_01]

Hey guys,
I finally found a Stand up jetski.
Basically found this kawasaki 550 js for $400 (cheapish in Australia). How can i know what year it is?
It had been sitting for a year after the owner had a motobike crash and now needs a hip replacement and can't do anymore... I got there and it wouldn't turn over the owner went to get his mate that had apparently rebuilt the motor with new machined head, machined crank, new bearings and bored to new bigger pistons with full gaskets costing about $1000+ about 1.5 to 2 years ago. So the 'mech' friend too the starter apart but nothing. We then took the engine off and turns out it was the pump/prop area that has sezied.
Hooked up the starter to a battery and did a compression test. Got 200psi in each cyl. I remember you said it should be about 130psi. Would this be because of the new pistons? Or is that way too much??

Ohh and it also needs the 'jets' in the carby. no idea what that is???

Anyway, what do you guys think? I bought it for $300.

Some pics.....

Already gave the engine compartment a clean. unfortunately no before pic but just picture about 10-20 years of oil, grease, sand and salt in there

The owner also talked about the stop button didn't work in the few last runs he had with the ski. I noticed this plug un-hooked. Followed the wire and it goes in the center arm. Would that be the cause??

Ohhh also the steering cable seemed to have seized too. Is there a way to un-seize it? or is it hard to replace?

 

[guyph_01]

Some pics of the engine

Ok so i took the pump out. Man i never had to take my Seadoo apart but taking the engine out and the pump on this kawasaki was so easy. Took me like 15min or less to get the whole pump unit out.

Also gave the exterior a clean

Anyway i think i know why its seized and i have a bad feeling the pump is ****ed.

These a bulge in the housing. Any chance this can be bent back to shape? Is corrosion the cause?
Anyway so went to the guy that helped me a Seadoo here and he said its gonna cost about $600 (again australian price) to machine out the bulge and re-weld/manufacture the prop to suit.
I know from my xp build that its crap when the prop gets re-welded etc so i'm thinking of getting a whole second hand pump from the states in average good condition as they are much cheaper.


Also opened the electrical box, cleaned the gasket and lips of the box with a blade. Connected the wire back, 'white to blue'. they was only one un hooked wire in the box so i guess it was the right one, i hope and applied a little bit of grease between the lips and gaskets to seal it back up.

Ive decided not to go crazy with this and buy new new new parts, paint job etc etc but just clean it, polish, and just get it to the best it can be without spending too much until summer is back

I hope to get some tips/help from you guys, and maybe find some parts for it.

Parts list i need so far
Steering cable
complete pump assembly with good prop and bearings
Choke switch/knob
dual pole spring replacement
jets for the carby


Thx

 

[guyph_01]

no replies?

 

[guyph_01]

Some more pics...

One who if it need to align the engine, shaft, and pump??

So i took the pump apart and found that its got a skat-trak prop. Is that a good pitch?? How can i tell if its worn? measurements?
It turns fine, no movement and i think the bearings inside are fine. Do hose things have oil in there like on the seadoo?
If i can find out if the prop is not worn, does this mean i only need the pump case housing?

This is the bump in the housing

This is the nozzle pump case housing, This would be fine to use again right?

Also took some pics of the carby. I need to know what it is so i can buy the kit and jets.
It says Keihin 807-1 on one side and 495 on the other.

Thx

 

[db2540]

Hi guyph,

I am in the same boat as you at the moment. I also brought a 550 for $300 that does not run and want to keep the cost down.

Some of my problems have been.

Need new starter- brought from here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20074234...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2261wt_754 cheapest I could find.

Could not turn motor by hand with plugs out- found rocks in pump

It now starts but stops- carby or fuel line issue. still investigating

Why are you pulling the thing apart for all you know its all good.

If I was you I would
- Buy new starter
- Put it all back together but the pump and try and get the thing running.

The prop looks ok but the clearance with the pump looks quite big. I looks just like mine and that's what I am using. I would just grind that bump down so the prop has some clearance, run it and see what happens.

I just brought some little things from http://jetskibits.openstores.com.au/c/10/300-440-550-JS-parts.html the other day. I got the stuff in 2 todays. If you need something he will try and find it.

Anyway keep us posted

Daniel

 

[N2 H2O]

I would go ahead and buy a new wear ring. That impeller is a great pitch for your setup. The carb you have is a CDKII. I would suggest rebuilding it. 200 psi is a little high. It's only safe to run up to about 185 psi on pump gas. You might be able to get away with just using a thicker head gasket. Also, replace the choke with a primer kit. It helps tremendously with cold starts. You will need a new steering cable. It might be hard to find on in Australia though.

 

[Pnutt]

all 550 parts found on ebay not sure what it cost to ship to aus though. i always say buy the service manuals for these they cover all models from 1974 to 1992 from js300- 650sx.
they have trouble shooting guides in them great for first timers you can narrow all your problems down fast.

 

[Pnutt]

looks like your carb bolts are corroded i would use some penetrating oil so you don't snap them they are a pain to drill out and tap. i wouls test it befor trying to rebuild it if you are saving money.

 

[fastgtfairlane]

thats good your ski has the better reed engine... probably something simple as to why it wont turn over...

 

[guyph_01]

Hey guys,

Little update. Got some parts A huge thx to 99spxxx and Matt For sending me a good Pump, and a new steering cable
Bolted those parts to the ski. I hope i did it right as its been a while since i took it apart. but seemed straight forward.
A few pics...

My new cable installed Thx Matt

The pump... Thx 99Spxxx

Now the main issues/worry
I'm not sure how this part is called but i guess its holds the shaft in place and acts as a seal to prevent water from getting in.
From the pic below you will see some sand in the hole with the bearing.
Two questions,
1, Should i replace the bearing and seal? what are they called and where can i get it if it needs replacing.
2, Is there a special way to bolt it back to ensure a water tight seal??
3, Is there a special way to put the shaft back in and would it need balancing/ centering??

Thx

 

[guyph_01]

Ive also been told that the black head may be from a older model engine. Would anyone be able to confirm this?

db2540, Daniel, Thx for the input. Found a head at jetskibits and sent them and email. However its noted that the head has very minor pitting on one cyl. Would anyone know if that would be ok to use? or if it would get worst?
Thx

I would go ahead and buy a new wear ring. That impeller is a great pitch for your setup. The carb you have is a CDKII. I would suggest rebuilding it. 200 psi is a little high. It's only safe to run up to about 185 psi on pump gas. You might be able to get away with just using a thicker head gasket. Also, replace the choke with a primer kit. It helps tremendously with cold starts. You will need a new steering cable. It might be hard to find on in Australia though.

When you say that this impeller is a great pitch for my setup, would that be better than standard? Would it be worth it to replace the std prop i got in the new pump with it?
If i get it down to 185 on 98ron would that be ok? I was told 160 is the maximum on those engines from another forum??

looks like your carb bolts are corroded i would use some penetrating oil so you don't snap them they are a pain to drill out and tap. i wouls test it befor trying to rebuild it if you are saving money.

yeah i let it soak for a day and was able to get them off. Will use antilock when i put it back in..

Thx for the input guys. Was really busy with uni. Will keep the progress up to date.
Guy

 

[guyph_01]

I'm also told to run it anyways, that i'd blow the head gasket before i do any other damage to the engine. Is that true?

 

[guyph_01]

Hi guys,
So i've taken the head off the engine. Had a bit of salt deposit. I'll get the gasket measured accurately to have an idea. Its a metal one. Also, would anyone be able to tell me if this is the reed engine or not?
Thx

 

[fastgtfairlane]

it is the sx reed engine...clean the gasket surfaces and replace them with copper gaskets

 

[N2 H2O]

I would definitely Get an aftermarket impeller. The stock one makes the ski feel really sluggish.


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[caseville9036]

Have you checked your drive shaft to the pump yet? you have a 550SX (90 and newer) ski and that replacement pump looks to be a JS550 (82 - 89).

 

[guyph_01]

it is the sx reed engine...clean the gasket surfaces and replace them with copper gaskets

Why the copper gasket? would that lower my compression?

Have you checked your drive shaft to the pump yet? you have a 550SX (90 and newer) ski and that replacement pump looks to be a JS550 (82 - 89).

Ouuuu not yet :--(, so does this mean it won't fit?

Thx

 

[fastgtfairlane]

the copper gasket is reusable and will never burn out.. it could raise the compression if anything... same for the base gasket too....you can buy them on ebay for pretty decent price..

the js and sx pumps will fit in the ski but the driveshafts are different and will not interchange due to different splines on the impeller.. the sx pump has a better, lighter driveshaft setup... your hull is weird because it has rear exhaust but doesnt have the sx rubber sides..

 

[guyph_01]

the copper gasket is reusable and will never burn out.. it could raise the compression if anything... same for the base gasket too....you can buy them on ebay for pretty decent price..

the js and sx pumps will fit in the ski but the driveshafts are different and will not interchange due to different splines on the impeller.. the sx pump has a better, lighter driveshaft setup... your hull is weird because it has rear exhaust but doesnt have the sx rubber sides..

Yeah i'm starting to think that this thing is a mix and match of so many different parts from different years. I'm no expect so i'm basing myself one you guys response which is greatly appreciated by the way.

Yep as you said the shaft isn't going in the older pump. So looks like i had the newer sx pump on there and i bought the older js pump Is it that much better to have the sx pump? Can i swap the prop between both pumps? Or should i just buy a need shaft to suit the older pump? F*%K!!!! LOL

 

[fastgtfairlane]

whats wrong with the pump that was in it?? the wear ring on the pump you just bought will work on the sx pump.. the stator section is whats different.. if that skat impeller is in good shape definitely reuse it.. try to fine a replacement bearing for the driveshaft which is the square piece you took a pic of..i just reread this thread entirely..

the cylinder head is a stock milled one.. you could find a stock SX 550 head and lower the compression some or maybe even an aftermarket one but it must be for a SX 550 engine..if you can get 100 or so octane fuel then leave the compression where it is.. it will be very snappy with the higher compression..

i would recommend rebuilding the carb if not replacing it.. the jets are inside the square plate without the inlet tube on it.. they will be above the needle and seat... you can order the carb kit and jets online.. i have the same carb with a similar set up as you.. i can check the jets and give you an idea of what sizes to get but i bet theres some in there now..look online for keihin carbs to get an idea of what they look like inside..

the hump looks like it came from over tightening or using too long a bolt for the intake grate..

when you put the wear ring on, make sure the impeller is as close as possible without rubbing the liner.. you can place shims behind the impeller where it screws on to the pump shaft to get it closer..