Hydroturf around grab rail

[Johnny340]

I have a sheet of molded diamond Hydroturf for the grab rail on my PJS VHP 7000 Viper and after reading the posts here, I still have a question or two:

After applying the turf to the top surface of the grab rail and then down the sides (with heat) do I just cut it off along the bottom edge or do I try to wrap it around and back under? I'm thinking it would be hard to do but the alternative of having a glue edge along the bottom may peel easily.

I'm planning to start with a piece of turf at the front to get the nose bushing area right and then do two side pieces. Can you guys successfully match the diamond pattern where the pieces join?

One more thing...Do you glue the entire piece at the same time or should I just get the top surface glued down, then apply the contact cement to the sides next, etc. so I don't have to worry about sticking it down wrong when stretching it to fit?

 

[Shifty]

You are supposed to trim off the excess at a 45* angle and then sand that bevel to blend the seam into the hull. I would do the top and side in one go, I ended up doing the top first and then flopping the turf down onto the sides.

 

[Johnny340]

Thanks for the quick reply (I'm planning to do this today). I'm not sure exactly how the 45° cut would work on this rail. Here is a picture of the rear corner to see the shape I'm dealing with. Should I end the Hydroturf on the vertical edge, or the bottom horizontal edge, or try to keep going and wrap it right under? Thanks for the opinions!

 

[Johnny340]

Well, I hoped to have had more input here but if you'll excuse the double post I'll add a few comments from what I found on my first grab rail hydroturfing. Maybe this will help others:

1. Heat will make it form anywhere (around the nose and even rear corners) so forget the templates. That way you'll have the pattern even all the way around. I did most of the shaping first before applying any glue.

2. As I read elsewhere, a hot sharp knife makes all the difference.

3. The best shaping tool was the Dremel with a sanding drum on it.

4. I ended up wrapping it right under which seems to be the way to go.

5. You can even match the pattern at the seams with some effort for a cool continuous look.

Here are some pics:

 

[Liquid Graffix]

Wow, that looks great! How did you get the front piece to look so nice? Did you cut it out from a full sheet?

I did a superjet a while back and just trimmed it off at the side instead of wrapping it all the way under. (That ski had the nose peice and the corner pieces so it was a ted bit easier) How is is holding up wrapped all the way under?

 

[Johnny340]

Thanks (and nice 'trailer' you have!)

The front piece started as a rectangular strip about 3" wide cut from a 62" sheet and then I heated it up and pulled it around the nose to get the shape before glueing. After a while it fit quite well which actually made it a bit of a challenge to stick it down where I wanted because I had to hold the front edge away while I stuck down the top first.

The Hydroturf stuck down fine wrapped around the bottom using heat but it hasn't seen the water yet so we'll see.

 

[turnagainhardcore]

Looks good! how long did it take you??

 

[ksmith83]

Hey johnny or anyone else on here...where did you or where can i purchase that piece on the nose that is basically a hole. i use the hole to attach them to a trailer. i'd look up the peice but i dont know what its called.

 

[ksmith83]

this is the piece i am talking about

 

[FxOne]

tow loop from blowsion
http://blowsion.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=AWACC42

or the bow eye?
http://blowsion.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=UJS03200

 

[ksmith83]

its the bow eye...thanks

 

[Johnny340]

I got mine from Jet World. They call it an aluminum nose bushing. Same as FxI bow eye listed above. Nice and strong for winching it up from.

Turf job took me a couple hours at least.