How-To split your hull

First off open up a time slot of about 5 hours. It takes a litte bit of time but if your patient it really isnt that hard.

Tools-
Heat gun
Rubber mallet
as many flat head screw drivers as you can find
prying tools
car jack
 
First things first. I put a space heater inside the engine compartment to help heat it up alil. Heat is the key in this process it makes everything go easier.

Take the heat gun and start on either edge of the engine compartment and dig inbetween the 2 halves on the outer edge. Dont go too rough or it will probably crack. Use the heat gun as you go and get it good and hot before you try to dig in there. The fiberglass flexes more with the heat and the glue turns soft.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0479.jpg
    DSCN0479.jpg
    31.3 KB · Views: 40
  • DSCN0480.jpg
    DSCN0480.jpg
    63.9 KB · Views: 67
  • DSCN0475.jpg
    DSCN0475.jpg
    64.5 KB · Views: 66
  • DSCN0478.jpg
    DSCN0478.jpg
    49.9 KB · Views: 37
after you get the sides of the engine compartment done move towards the nose. go under the edge like i said and loosen it up. Once you get all teh edges done you can move towards the inside.

Take a screwdriver and hammer it inbetween the seams starting on either side of the engine compartment. It should go relatively easy if you did the edges correctly. You want to have it pretty hot all the way down whatever edge your doing.

Do both sides like this and then move to the front. Make sure you do the sides first because the nose is stuck alot better. Heat the hell out of the bow eye and do teh same thing to the nose. Its harder to get in there but youll get it.

When your doing the boweye make sure to go in the middle. If you go to the edge of it the screwdriver will go through your nose. I did this dont make same mistake.(only mistake and not major)
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0478.jpg
    DSCN0478.jpg
    49.9 KB · Views: 33
  • DSCN0483.jpg
    DSCN0483.jpg
    26.7 KB · Views: 49
  • DSCN0482.jpg
    DSCN0482.jpg
    35.2 KB · Views: 38
once the nose and engine sides are undone the fun starts. I said you only need a heat gun which you probably only need. I broke out the acetylene torch for this part though.

you need to get the transom and the sides of the back half of the ski together or it will try to crack on you.

I first got the transom reallly realllllllly hot from the inside of the engine compartment and broke it somewhat lose. I got 6 screwdrivers stuck at once but i got it somewhat free.

I broke the torch out and heated the entire sides down to the back and also all along the outside of the topdeck along where the transom is glued. I dont think you would want to do this unless you plan on painting it.

Once i got it good and hot i put a car jack on some wooden blocks in the engine compartment and put a 2x4 across the back edge of the top deck. Dont do it in the nose it will crack in half.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0471.jpg
    DSCN0471.jpg
    68.6 KB · Views: 42
  • DSCN0485.jpg
    DSCN0485.jpg
    60.5 KB · Views: 52
  • DSCN0489.jpg
    DSCN0489.jpg
    64.7 KB · Views: 55
  • DSCN0488.jpg
    DSCN0488.jpg
    74.3 KB · Views: 50
  • DSCN0490.jpg
    DSCN0490.jpg
    56.9 KB · Views: 51
Once you get the transom free work on the edges. don't jack like crazy either. get it really hot and slowly work it up prying on places the whole time. It will go if its hot enough and you followed the rest of instructions.


Get the sides free and then jack ti up alil more. get yourself alilttle bit of room between the bottom of the transom and the bottom half of the hull.

There is a big gob of glue at the back of the ski. I took the torch to the tray and get it hot as hell before i even tried to get it free. I took a piece of plywood that was long and thin and used my mallet to knock it down there. If its hot enough it will go right to the back of the ski.

Once you get the middle section the very back edge of the ski is last. I cut a notch in the back as you cans eeto get in there alittle better. I was going to notch it for a trim system anyways for more throw so it wasnt a big deal. You dont need to do that.

One trick i found was to put something on the edges and close the front. It pops the rear open.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0484.jpg
    DSCN0484.jpg
    91.5 KB · Views: 44
  • DSCN0491.jpg
    DSCN0491.jpg
    48.6 KB · Views: 58
  • DSCN0487.jpg
    DSCN0487.jpg
    82.4 KB · Views: 56
  • DSCN0486.jpg
    DSCN0486.jpg
    56.3 KB · Views: 57
The top should now be free and you are happy!!:arms:

Alittle advice.

Go slow
heat is your friend


Heres some more pics incase anyone cares.
Im going to be doing a build up so ill keep the pictures flowing.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0493.jpg
    DSCN0493.jpg
    49.8 KB · Views: 69
  • DSCN0494.jpg
    DSCN0494.jpg
    63.8 KB · Views: 58
  • DSCN0495.jpg
    DSCN0495.jpg
    60.8 KB · Views: 68
  • DSCN0496.jpg
    DSCN0496.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 57
More pics. Let me know what you think of the write up or if you have anything to add.


PS ive got a wild idea for a dual pump setup but im scared to try it:sneaky:
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0496.jpg
    DSCN0496.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 40
  • DSCN0497.jpg
    DSCN0497.jpg
    110.8 KB · Views: 53
  • DSCN0498.jpg
    DSCN0498.jpg
    88.7 KB · Views: 41
  • DSCN0499.jpg
    DSCN0499.jpg
    93.2 KB · Views: 57
  • DSCN0500.jpg
    DSCN0500.jpg
    62.2 KB · Views: 101

Boris

The Good Old Days
AWESOME :biggthumpup:

How much of that green (read- heavy) glue was there in that bond line ?

Splitting is the way to go for a nice build, I know I will be doing it when I get a round nose.

That hull looks ready for sandblasting for that "light" feeling.:cool2:
 
I was going to weigh it but I was about done with that thing for the day. The foam is heavier then i expected. I filled 2 big boxes and it has to wiegh20 lbs atleast. I've got an idea for using bags of air instead of foam. much lighter and if i get a leak or a crack it wont sink. It shouldnt matter what you have in there for buoyancy aslong as it isnt water. haha
 

Boris

The Good Old Days
The Titanic had water tight bulk heads and they still made a movie (or 2) about her. :biggthumpup:

I was toying with the air bladder idea as well.
Something like a car inner-tube but long instead of round should work. You could always mount stems on the bulk head to keep it inflated and fill the rest up with foam for strength.

No matter what you do, splitting the hull sure looks like the best solution.
Good work. :biggthumpup: :biggthumpup:
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
The Titanic had water tight bulk heads and they still made a movie (or 2) about her. :biggthumpup:

I was toying with the air bladder idea as well.
Something like a car inner-tube but long instead of round should work. You could always mount stems on the bulk head to keep it inflated and fill the rest up with foam for strength.

No matter what you do, splitting the hull sure looks like the best solution.
Good work. :biggthumpup: :biggthumpup:


lol, wow that actualy might work

Takes note:sneaky:
 

vitaly

Анархия - мать порядка!
Location
NY/NJ
Is splitting the hull really necessary every time you have to adjust the carb? :sneaky:
 
Top Bottom