Factory b pipe sizzle

[dustin272]

Yesterday I was installing a b pipe on a RN superjet. I have the bottom screw 1/4 opened and I ran it that way for about two or three minutes and then checked the pipe to see how hot it was getting. The whole chamber and head pipe were sizzling. Since it was easy I opened the top screw a 1/4 turn and rode it again. This time there was no sizzle on the chamber but a little sizzle on the head pipe where the tree bolts go into the manifold. Is this OK or should I open another screw a little more?

 

[dustin272]

HELP

 

[djkorn1]

It should be fine. A little sizzle is okay according to B Pipe instructions.

 

[aramis]

I'm far from an expert, but will chime in anyways.

- FP says that the water should "dance" and not immediately "stick" as it sizzles. It's hard to explain, but I hope that helps. Ideally, you want it to sizzle about the first inch or so on the chamber, which I'm sure means that there'll be some sizzling on the head pipe too. FP only mentions to check sizzling on the chamber in their instructions, they never mention head pipe at all.

- FP's instructions mention to start w/ the bottom screw 3/4 turn open, all others closed. From this, and my testing, I think you're running too "dry" if you only have one screw 1/4 turn open.

- From all the posts on here, it seems like the "magic" settings for a 701 w/ B pipe and limited chamber are to have the bottom screw open 1 turn, all others closed. This is the most common recommendation from what I've seen. It has worked well on my setup, although I haven't done hours worth of fine tuning & testing. Closing the top screw on mine added some low end hit that I wanted, although that is contrary to FP's directions.

So, all in all, open the bottom screw 3/4 to 1 full turn, close the others, and see what you've got...

EDIT: if your cylinder head has a second cooling fitting running directly overboard, make sure to put a restrictor in that line. This will help to build up and maintain pressure in the headpipe, which you need for proper tuning of that pipe. Someone else on here (mouthfulloflake I think) had this issue, and from reading those replies I realized I had the same problem. Putting in a 4mm restrictor in that overboard line made the pipe come alive, and made the tuning much easier to set.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

yes!

thanks Aramis, I was just about to tell him the same thing.

I ended up about 1/4-maybe 3/8 open on the bottom screw ONLY.

I think you can run that LITTLE water, when youve got the restricters to make good pressure at the headpipe.

 

[dustin272]

Thanks guys

 

[SUPERJET-113]

yes!

thanks Aramis, I was just about to tell him the same thing.

I ended up about 1/4-maybe 3/8 open on the bottom screw ONLY.

I think you can run that LITTLE water, when youve got the restricters to make good pressure at the headpipe.

So B pipes arent ghey now? lol:fingersx:

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

Ill never buy another one.

unless its DIRT cheap.

Blindfolded, riding back to back, most people could tell ZERO difference in my boat with this pipe vs the older ( cheaper coffman ) pipe.

IM just sayin...

So B pipes arent ghey now? lol:fingersx:

 

[SUPERJET-113]

:shhh:I like the Coffmans too,its just heavier. The price can be right on those sometimes thats for sure.

B pipes look cooler too! The chamber looks like a :439: lol

 

[Mark44]

Ill never buy another one.

unless its DIRT cheap.

Blindfolded, riding back to back, most people could tell ZERO difference in my boat with this pipe vs the older ( cheaper coffman ) pipe.

IM just sayin...

So you are saying they both run like dog crud? LOL opworm:

Mark44

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

Nope.

Im saying ive now got the B pipe running as well as the coffman was, but the chamber is hotter ( less coupler life) and its louder than the other pipe ( dryer in side)

 

[Mark44]

Nope.

Im saying ive now got the B pipe running as well as the coffman was, but the chamber is hotter ( less coupler life) and its louder than the other pipe ( dryer in side)

The best my pipe ever performed is when I ran it with no water for a few spins around the lake, man did that thing hit hard with I could do it longer.

Mark44

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

Yeah, I noticed that too, the smoke and smell of melting rubber brought that to a quick halt.

I got a drypipe in the mail today, its my next test subject, I hope its better than the B.

 

[dustin272]

Whats the worst that could happen if you run it to hot?

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

well, I melted some hoses off of the chamber, and discolored the NEW coupler between headpipe and chamber, and also some of the paint peeled off of the chamber...

Not sure what else could happen..

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

You can melt cooling hoses too. That can obviously lead to serious engine damage if not caught right away.

 

[aramis]

For what it's worth, none of my friends can believe that my 650 SN still has "just" a 650 in it...they all thought it was bored/ported/the works. All it has is the Coffman's sizzler and a milled head. That seems to be the magic pipe for the 650, and I wish I understood the technical reasons behind that...

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

ding ding ding

Its a DAM good pipe on a 61x 701 too.

Ill tell you though, skip the 61x, and goto a 62T engine ( I hear they are better) got two on the shelf probably run them next year.

there is such TINY difference in a 650 ( setup as you said) and 61x engine, I cant imagine the hype and BS about a 650 being so bad....

 

[aramis]

Yeah, I was recently looking to buy a RN, and got lucky and found a '98 in my price range w/ decent mods already installed. The '98 was in the range where they used the 62T, so I lucked out. I've never had a 61x, but the 62t w/ B-pipe is definitely workin' for me right now. I was planning on leaving the 650 in the SN, but now you've got me thinkin'...