300/440/550 D-cut ride plate

Most of what everyone on here has told me for D-Cutting the ride plate is to just use a half sized paint can lid, lay it out on the bottom rear edge of the ride plate and mark the outline of it half on and half off of the plate then cut that "U" shape out. Apparently it really helps to drive the front end up, also a shorter pump cone will help improve the low end snap as well. Here is a pic that was sent to me for how the ride plate should look. I didn't notice how much of these ride plates were cut in this pic, but I've been watching several freestyle videos over the last year or so and have noticed the pros seem to have about an inch or two of plate on each side of the D-Cut. That's probably why I would go with the mid sized paint can lid.

Edit: Just did up a quick Photoshop impression of how it looks like the pro's seem to have their plates cut or bought.


  • D-Cut Rideplate.jpg
    D-Cut Rideplate.jpg
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  • ride plate.jpg
    ride plate.jpg
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V watch your daughters V
Waterford, MI
We all have to start somewhere. There's been a few 550's on the board that became very fun freestyle machines (with 100's of hours of work).

Polish jet pilot

Warsaw, Poland
I have a freestyle/freeride 550. I can tell you that d-cutting stock plate does not any good IMO. The ski was ONLY sliding while turning, basically I was drifting that thing all the time I moved the bars. This could be the cause of front sponsons that were installed. I went with lightly skegged ocean pro plate and this made the ski handle more normally. 550 are fun and light, but SJ have the real potential. However if you learn a 550 you can ride anything!
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