I bought a pair of gold 38s several years ago from ebay. they were 75 bucks shipped per carb, no chokes, installed primer fittings, 90 degree fuel fittings and extended throttle shafts for using a dual carb setup, and t handle mixture screws. I used them on a ported 550 reed engine. I ran dual feed, dual pumps and just ran a tee to the pulse fitting to both carbs. they come with a 2.0n/s 65 pilots and 107.5 main jets. I cant remember what spring for the n/s they came with though. I used stock metal 440 flame arrestors with the screens removed. I think I was running 70 pilots, 120 mains. 2.0 n/s and 65g springs.MTRHEAD
What was your final verdict on oem vs 8113 sbn38’s?
Trying to decide on which version for a 550 reed motor. I would rather have the quick acceleration than the ultimate top end.
I also bought a pair of like new Mikuni non-OEM 38mm Carbs for $50 each. They are both set-up as Slave Carbs, meaning both had the Throttle Shaft shortened for Shaft Couplers.
So because none of these Carbs I bought came with a Throttle Spring, Throttle Stop or Throttle Cam, I need to order one new Mikuni Throttle Shaft Kit which includes the Threaded Shaft, Bushings and Throttle Plate. WSM sells the Standard MIkuni 38mm Throttle Shaft Rebuild Kit. What Throttle Plate Nominal Degree comes with this Kit? Where do I get a 15 degree Throttle Plate to match the other Carb Throttle Plate?
Does the degree "rating" indicate how close to zero degrees- CLOSED- they are? Bevel Angle?
#1 reason fuel economy where we rideInteresting stuff. What is the reason for running these over say a set of aftermarket 44's? (by aftermarket I mean straight from mikuni, but not the oem44's from a yamaha or some such). Just an experiment? Or this is an application where the smaller carbs are preferred for whatever reason (fuel economy, or ease of tuning or power delivery or whatever).