2017 Superjet bilge pump
- Thread starter dash751
- Start date
One bilge pump should do just fine. If you are doing submarine tricks than go for two bilge pumps. Having your ski sink and go under is not a good feeling. The discharge hose should exit out the top rear corner { towards the tray } of the engine compartment. My ski discharge runs out of the left side of my ski. I am going to install two bilges because of all the tricks that I do on the ski.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
OCD tidy bilge harness is ideal, but you can wire it up without one. I run dual bilge because I am also running dual cooling. If possible, I would recommend keeping the stock siphon bilge also even if you have to relocate it.
I installed a single bilge in a stock '17 hull and the hood seals so well still that it's honestly somewhere between plenty and overkill. I used the OCD tidy bilge harness, and drilled a holed in the 'dash' to put a switch in but, I wouldn't do either of those again. It appears "clean", but isn't worth it in my view. Instead, I'd run a dedicated pair of wires from the battery through a waterproof fuse holder (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/eaton-electronics-division/BK-HFB-R/1024092), and just open the hood to insert the fuse when you start riding, and take it back out at the end. I've done that "just run it the whole time" on a lead acid battery for a couple years now. I've even left it sit on the beach running for over half an hour, no problems with draining the battery. Rule bilge pumps (and probably most like it) can be run problem free without water/load, so no problems there.
Just my $0.02. The switches are expensive, opening the ebox is a hassle, but running two wires though about $25 worth of fuse holder apparatus and fuse is easy. I've made up several of those; that's where I've settled.
Just my $0.02. The switches are expensive, opening the ebox is a hassle, but running two wires though about $25 worth of fuse holder apparatus and fuse is easy. I've made up several of those; that's where I've settled.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
The handlebar mounted switches are the easiest to use. I use a Watt-Hole on the dash with a rotary switch, It is clean looking but the switch is a pain to turn on while riding, I dont ride with it on all the time, but if I start to do tricks, I reach down and turn it on.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Just out of curiosity, are you running the 500? I swear if you leave my bilges running, they wont suck any water... You have to turn them on AFTER the water is in the hull or they will just spin and nothing comes out. Has anyone had bilge cavitation issues? Its really annoying to keep switching it off an on and off and on....
Thus far, no, but I have one in a hull now within which I'll be doing the same thing, so I'll pay attention to see if that happens. Thanks for the heads up!
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Maybe I did something weird haha I usually notice one pumping and not the other, if I hit the switch off and then on, they both start pumping. I have also beached my ski with the bilges running, switched them off and then on again, and then they are pumping water
They work fine, just a minor nuisance.
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
500 GPM would give you more thrust than your 144 mm Pump. 500 GPH....
And the Rule pumps airlock like a MF'er. You always have to flip the switch off then back on. They are garbage. I'd give anything for Attwood to bring back the V500
Hah! Nice catch. 8.3 gallons per second would qualify as "a lot".
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
on the newer ones, I remove the check valve. But yes, the pumps can airlock when left running.
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
Unfortunately, no. The 'replacement' for the Attwood V500 is too tall. I believe it's called the Tsunami. I haven't tried any of the Sahara or other oval shaped low profile ones. I'm still stuck with a crappy Rule. I gotta get clarification from @Big Kahuna on the check valves. Harrison, are those on the automatics or manuals or both? and are they in the line or part of the pump?
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
On the outlet, unscrew the end, there is a check valve inside, I removed mine and it works better. Mine is the Manual 500.
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
Sweet! Thank you sir!
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
Uggh, I guess mine is an older one. No check valve. Time to find an alternate source.
- Location
- Cumming, Georgia
Had an Atwood tsunami 500 in a boat for years with no problem. Put a couple on a double bilge bracket with no clearance issues and still going strong after 3 years. If they’re left on before taking on water at least 1 of 2 usually pumps. Sometimes they cavitate but not terrible.
Great pump IMO for ~$25.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Great pump IMO for ~$25.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
I prefer the older style!!!!!! they added this one way valve and it seamed to cause more air locking. hence removing it.
bored&stroked
Urban redneck
- Location
- AZ
I've run two wires up the handlepole and just connect a blade fuse to make it run, I've run the rotary switch thats like $80, and on my wifes ski I ran the handlepole mounted switch thats way more expensive. Surprise, the most expensive one was the nicest lol. I run handlepole mounted only now, blade if I'm broke and the good switch when I get some money.