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with the removal of the stock rubber silencer nozzles, you might need to lower your popoff due to less restriction. put them back on and see if the problem clears up. if it does, you know you need to lower the popoff.

i would do a popoff test then take the carb apart to make sure its 100% and see what jaets are currently in it before even thinking about installing it.

i think its time to revive this thread! bring it back, darin?

are there pics of the nemo ski?

oem starters only!!!!

beautiful. CONGRATS!

the second fitting on the head is for another pisser if youre running dual cooling. either cap it off, put a flush kit on it or tee the two lines coming out of the head together for more even flow and cooling in the head.

it wouldnt be the first time

cold water out the pisser(s)

try to pick up one side or the other with your ski(s) on it. thats how much force it would take to flip it. it might flip in an accident, but i cant see it happening with even stupid aggressive driving offroad.

screw the R. who wants a resistor anyway? its something else to go bad and makes for a lesser spark. the resistor is only there to prevent radio frequency interference anyway. not a problem on an sxi pro

top loader for sure

use spring clamps around the edges while the contact cement dries. let it sit w/ clamps for a few hours.

upon starting, the timing [I]should[I] retard itself. if it doesnt, the combustion will happen when the piston is way btdc. this combustion (and lack of speed/momentum) could push the piston back DOWN before it reaches TDC, therefore spinning the engine in the opposite direction. i would imagine...

hey frosty, how could there by a syphon in your vent tube line when the nipple doesnt go any lower than the top of the tank? i mean, where would it be getting the fuel from to supply a syphon? theres no pickup tube below the nipple. as far as the gas smell, check all hoses for moisture. if you...

i refuse to get any idiots back on the water. some breakdowns were just meant to happen.

once the engine is "moving", regardless of rotation, it wouldnt be that inconceivable to change direction, at a low and inconsistant rpm, if thats what the timing "wanted".

if youre going with a stiff setup, make sure you reinforce under the bracket area first.

where does everyone find that their b pipe adjustors work the best for them? and post your cooling routing. single or dual. for the past couple years, ive been running single cooling and the top screw out one turn and the middle and bottom all the way in. the chamber never even came...

whats so funny looking about a sperm with handlebars and a seat?