a cone would certainly help, but i think youd do better with a stock nozzle and a cone or just a bored stocker.
make sure to measure the inner and out diameters of that protec nozzle. ill bet you can bore it more than 2mm based on the ones that ive seen.
i noticed dramatic changes with just a...
that is a nozzle must be for racing @ 80mm. do you have enough material to bore it to, say, 86mm? thatd help out a ton for thrust and for cheap.
a jetworx flow control valve before the stinger also makes a noticable difference in holeshot...... and for cheap.
raise the compression if the head...
5200 is good, but it takes forever to cure unless you get the fast cure. hopefully it doesnt break the shoe some more the next time you go to remove the grate. maybe marine-tex would be better than 5200.
dual carbs or single?
it looks like its not to late to fix those exhaust ports. it doesnt look like too much material was taken away from anywhere. just remove some more metal, right?
i thought the bottom screw is for top end and the top screw for bottom end. thats what the general concensus seems to be.
also, a jetworks flow control valve works wonders over a restrictor, i have found.
it looks like there is a ball, but it looks like it has a hole through it for a bolt to hold it down to the plate/nozzle. it doesnt look like a ball with a threaded shank like OEM.
seems like a good idea.... although, im confident that the said slop is what saves a sizable percentage of our...
try not to flatland. its not good for the ski.
if your looking to do tricks, get some footholds.
contact steve (waterfreak) at the watercraft factory if youre interested. he makes better ones, and for cheaper, than the others.
lets not forget about the *thickness* of the gasket. that plays a role in how the bendix is seated. no gasket = tighter tolerance for the bendix. not sure if it matters.
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