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Why Yamaha did not machine a groove for a circlip to positively position the midshaft and prevent it from moving is beyond me

Yeah I see your point ,I should really find a nice clean , sanitary place to grind SMC , pour foam and Styrofoam into dust , where exactly do you see glass being laid up at, I don't see any yet ?

I wouldn't say they were junk, I have had a run on Seadoo pumps as of late, it seems at about the 12-15 year mark the plastic breaks down and disintegrates, Personally I think 12-15 years on a plastic pump liner is pretty damn good, for damn sure a combination aluminum - stainless liner run in...

I am pretty sure the engines were cast in Tawain or China, the castings themselves looked ok but the engines were basically crap, I sold two of the 720 Seadoo engines, both puked within a years time. They went out of business so the warranty was null and void. I still have a set of cases...

More swoopiness, I also erased an offending body line with my magic eraser.

The TS plate will not fit, its not wide enough,I believe the ride plate on the 750STS is the same as the Seacouch.

Nope completely stock except for a stainless impeller, the guy had me build it for his wife, she does not care how fast it goes as long as it goes.

A few pics of one I just finished for a customer, seat material is pink crocodile skin vinyl, imported from China , sewn and installed by me. :shhh:

Poles are for strippers

I got another 300SX hull to play with so, here we go. The plan is simple, Yamaha engine and pump, partial Superjet pump tunnel graft, adding tubbies to the front, shorten and blunt the nose, fixed steering,filling in nose and reshaping, swoops added to the sides of the gunwales. Its coming along...

The problem is they paint right on top of the SMC, no sanding, no primer no chance the paint wil ever stay on. The SMC material has mold release made in to it, spraying over the top of the SMC without sanding and or priming the hull leaves little chance of the paint actually bonding to the hull...

No paint that I know of is tougher or more scratch resistant than AWLGRIP, one thing, make damn sure you don't put a run in it because you won't sand it out, you might grind it off but Awlgrip does not sand and buff, what you have is what you have,forever.

Actually Seadoo runs the injection oil through a set of brass gears that drive the rotary valve, this requires a friction modifier in the oil regular outboard oils do not have it thus the different spec.

Come on over the more the merrier

You mean it fired up ?

Yes the red pigtail with the fuse is hot all the time, that wire is system power, everything runs through that one fuse. Of course you can cross out the posts on the solenoid and it will start, all you are doing is bypassing the solenoid. Of course you can run a wire from the battery positive...

I will make this very simple, if you can't take the brown wire coming off the solenoid and touch it to the red fuse wire coming off the Positive lead and crank it over then you have the starter and battery cables swapped, it will not matter what side of the relay you put the two cables on. The...

Make sure you have the lead that goes to the fuse on the post that goes to the battery +, I know this sounds simple but I have seen people put that lead on the starter post of the relay many times. It causes the exact symptoms you are describing and just looking at it it looks correct.

I am still working on mine , here is the rundown. Big pin 750, full STS 750 exhaust system,installed a larger exhaust outlet,dual Mikuni I body carbs, stock 750 ignition and box mounted in the stock location. Airbox removed so a group 24 marine battery could be installed, dual Seadoo fuel tanks...

The red wire only powers the start switch, other than a wire coming off the regulator going back to the + post to charge the battery that circuit is totally separate from everything else.Take you volt ohm meter set it on 12 volts and starting at the end of the fuse holder start checking for 12v...