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Actually that depends on how you cut your tray out, if you just cut out the bottom then yes its pretty simple, if you also cut out the sides and widened the tray then yeah not so simple, also to those of us who do vacuum bagging on a a frequent basis, yes it is a simple process, to those that...

I don't know but I am running a one way and a 24/7 scupper on mine just to be safe

All this talk of vacuum bagging and resin infusion is great if you are building new parts on mold set up to do vacuum bagging with, it doesn't help out someone like Cannibal who is trying to lay up a tray area on the ski, that would be extremely difficult to vacuum bag. I went back to the...

The strength of E-glass is about (3.45 GPa) and carbon fiber is about (3.53 GPA for carbon T300) as you can see they are very close strengthwise. Carbon fiber is lighter however @ $ 1.75 g/cc vs. 2.5 g/cc for glass.

Depends on what we are comparing exactly, if we are comparing wet layup fiberglass vs wet layup carbon fiber the carbon fiber will always be stronger. Same goes for vacuum bagged or resin infused parts, the carbon fiber or Kevlar version will be stronger than the fiberglass part.

I would use US composites epoxy thickened with cabosil, however Locktite plastic bonder would probably be your best option here, regardless of what you use get a drill bit or a small bur and a dremel and enlarge the hole a bit to give the epoxy something to grab on to, you can install the bolts...

Pics of the new brace - rear seal lip - battery box - bottle opener- etc, I have to add another piece on the bottom and one on the back to complete this then have it all welded up. It doesn't get much better for a battery location than this !

IMHO you are making this way harder than it actually is, epoxy some inserts in there and be done with it, the size the hole in the hull is irrelevant, thats what the epoxy is for to fill in the holes

The Sxi pro driveshaft is 1/2" longer than the SXI shaft but shorter than the SXR shaft, you can also use a 550 coupler on the SX driveshaft and cut it down to the length needed to make up the difference

Hacking up a Blaster will only grease the rails on your personal railway headed straight to hell !

Actually this is running a 787, the 951 would have been way more work and weight, no real benefits to it that I can see. a built GP 800 engine would be very nice also

Here is what you need, part # 95631A125 , I would still epoxy them in just to be safe http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-threaded-inserts/=fy163u

Full build thread is here, the new home of all that is X2 http://www.pwctoday.com/f72/mach-6-x2-build-205517.html

Got one side laid up with kevlar and carbon fiber and checked the fit on the hull, looking like money now ! Waiting on more epoxy and foam to get here from US composites.

Made a jig to keep the hood straight while I added some glass to stiffen it up some.

More pics , no particular order, mounted the elect box, did some hood work, screw making a mold, maybe at a later date, this is going to be the hood I am going to run this year !

Refoamed the ski and cut 1.5" off the back

Stretched the side a tad and installed a tubbie

Cut out the stock pump tunnel replaced it with a Seadoo pump tunnel

Lots of work done on this lately, I will let the pics do most of the talking, engine mounted to stock pads using a set of Superjet mounts and a modified 787 rear engine bedplate.