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http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=148631&highlight=pipe+mod

fixed it !

It makes much better power that the stock Yamaha pipe,l all it takes to mod the pipe is some JB weld a few drill bits and some brass fittings.

I don't know he did say he was sending it to Impros, ba ba ba bing !

If you are looking for a really expensive doorstop or paperweight then I highly recommend it !

I would ride that like a rental, hey come to think of it is is like a rental !

Relax he just needs some info to make a decision on what his newest (sell it before its completed) project is going to be.

There is no simple answer to your question, it depends on what you are doing with the ski, will it see wide open runs for extended periods or is it being used strictly for freestyle, initial advance has to be set up with this in mind and the timing has to be backed out by a certain RPM or it...

The orings keep the bearings locked in place in the crankcase, you can use regular bearings and put a thin pink film of red loctite on the bearings to hold them in position in the cases

If you are actually doing a paint finish on these skis Duratec primer sprayed into the mold would be a good option for you, it should crosslink pretty well with vinyl ester or poly resin also

Check for restricted exhaust

Never seen a lightweight DE up close but the XFT hulls are just incredible

Seriously I believe I have four of them here now lol

Stock sucks !

No the fitting on the plate on the back of the carb hooks to the pulse line-crankcase, the other two fittings that are inline on the carb the top fitting is fuel return , the bottom fitting will hook to the reserve.

And for anyone else wanting to do this I am a fully stocking dealer on WRlll hulls lol

Remove the return fitting from the carb going back to the tank, blow pressure into this line then stick your finger over the hose to hold the pressure in, this will fill the fuel lines and fuel will come out the return fitting on the carb. Put the return hose back on the carb, fire it up...

The four hookups on the tank are on, reserve, vent and return, if you bypass or remove the fuel selector you will only use the reserve, vent and the return. You can take the pickup out of the tank to see what goes where, the reserve is the one that goes all the way to the bottom of the tank...

My only suggestion here if you cannot or will not fix the molds is to shoot the gelcoat in extra thick then block sand and polish the damaged areas after you pull the hull from the mold, It is not a well known fact but many boat mfgs do touchups to their boats after they come out of the molds...

What kind of parting fluid -mold wax are you using, there are much better things to use in molds theses days than PVA, I use a sealer that fills the pores in the mold, its magic the way this stuff works