Other What did you fab up today? A thread for the home fabricators!

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Scott Schlindwein is one of the people I have the upmost respect for. He’s a blue shirt EMT engine driver that proves every day that you don’t need rank to be a leader.

Over the last 2 years, I have been giving out my 3D printed coins in silver with a red core with years served. My goal since I purchased my CNC is to for Scott to receive the first billet retirement coin before he retires.

I’m very close to achieving that goal and Boyer deserve a lot of credit for it.

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OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
Rentz, GA
I told you already, I haven’t played with CAD, fusion or any other software. I wing all my settings. Because I did the belt drive conversion, I can crank my spindle speed up to 7500 and then I can pretty much handle any feedrate, I just adjust for depth of cut and the finish I want. Plus I really don’t use my mill like you are, or at least haven’t gotten that far yet.

As far as published numbers, you have to remember, a machinist is a skilled trade and thus they teach how to calculate these values as part of their curriculum. Feed rates are based on way too many variables to be listed in charts.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
The package for my face Mill arrived yesterday.

Hoping I’ll actually have the face Mill this Wednesday.
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Spindle is a 1.5” square that you would normally use to build a custom axle , hub is a 1” spindle and 1 1/4” seal. It has the same hubs at many single jet ski trailers . So if I loose a bearing on the way to the lake I could steal the hub assembly off the cart to get to where I need to. This pic is before I drilled the holes through the spindle to pin it into the tube . Tube is 2x2x1/4” 5053 tube . Planning to build a few carts if I can get enough interest .
 

Sanoman

thecolorpurple
Site Supporter
Location
NE Tenn
View attachment 405718
Spindle is a 1.5” square that you would normally use to build a custom axle , hub is a 1” spindle and 1 1/4” seal. It has the same hubs at many single jet ski trailers . So if I loose a bearing on the way to the lake I could steal the hub assembly off the cart to get to where I need to. This pic is before I drilled the holes through the spindle to pin it into the tube . Tube is 2x2x1/4” 5053 tube . Planning to build a few carts if I can get enough interest .
Put me down for one.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
View attachment 405718
Spindle is a 1.5” square that you would normally use to build a custom axle , hub is a 1” spindle and 1 1/4” seal. It has the same hubs at many single jet ski trailers . So if I loose a bearing on the way to the lake I could steal the hub assembly off the cart to get to where I need to. This pic is before I drilled the holes through the spindle to pin it into the tube . Tube is 2x2x1/4” 5053 tube . Planning to build a few carts if I can get enough interest .

The bigfoot beach carts have bushings and a hitch attachment rated. Could your design substitute a trailer in some ideal conditions? Obviously without a suspension the road would need to be a nice one. But like the streets in Daytona are good.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
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Vendor Account
Location
Rentz, GA
Gonna try out some new cameras on my turtle platform but the mounts require a slope to angle them down far enough.

10 minutes to jig up, 1 minute to mill down.

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@OCD Solutions

I need a facing tool. Any one in particular you like? The only thing that came with the machines was for resurfacing the spoil board for the router and I don't want to use that on aluminum. I used a 1/2" endmill for practice but that is quite obviously not the right tool for the job.

As I replace endmills, is there a particular brand you find that is a good price to performance? Otherwise I'll keep buying what was included, but it's quite the mix of brands.

And thanks for the detailed information above. The backlash I figured out quickly. I got the steps tweaked more manually already but it took a long time.

I don't really want to get too involved with this because I haven't been actively into the machine shop industry for a few years now aside from just some small time manual milling. So my knowledge is massively forgotten now but I can say that machining tools are only as good as you're willing to pay for. When I was dedicated to working with the Eumach mill at the machine shop I very often would use a range of face milling tools but the most common were the 1.5", 2" and 4" button cutter tools. The nice thing about them is the buttons can be indexed (rotated) one seat position and you have a fresh cutting edge again. They're not cheap but they last a very long time if you are smart about your use with them. Don't allow the buttons to become loose, it does happen but if you pay attention to them you can catch it before it becomes a problem. A loose button will spin over the seat formation and round it out making it useless, the buttons will never stay tight in there again eventually destroying the buttons. It was my favorite cutter to use though. Use all inserts at the same time to remove larger amounts of material, scale back to one insert for facing. The more inserts you use, the slower you need to spin your cutter. Same goes for 4 flute end mills, they don't need to be spun at 10k RPM, it was very common place for me to only need between 1000 and 2500 RPM. Anything faster and we would get too much chatter eventually destroying the end mill. 2 flute end mills can be run faster though but it also depends largely on the materials you're using it on. We primarily used Sandvik tools on our mills, here is a link to the button cutter and one more to their homepage which has a feed and speed calculator for general reference purposes only. The calculator is not setting the standard, only suggestive but should get you close enough for most typical materials.


 
As for end mill brands, we seemed to have reasonably decent life span out of Morse brand end mills. Just stay to the general rule of thumb with your end mills, only cut with 60% of your tool diameter and no more than 25% the diameter for your depth in mild steel or softer materials.

 
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