Dry Pipe Solid Mounting

Has anyone ever tried to solid mount their dry pipe instead of using the Lord mounts? I have a Speedwerx pipe that I would like to get back into action. Previously I snapped the o-ring spigot off from some harsh landings which now has me wondering if the Lord mounts allow too much movement. Wouldn't it be better for the pipe to be a solid component with the motor? The stock exhaust is a solid mount, the Coffman pipes if I recall are solid mount, I believe all of the Pro-tec pipes are solid mount. Would there be any advantage of making say my Speedwerx or a Factory dry pipe a solid mount too? I can machine or lathe up something to make it that way in fairly short order but only if it will save the pipe from any further self destruction. It already has some minor denting from the thrashing tagging the inner side of the pipe against the motor. I'd love to get this pipe back on the ski and get that power back.

I would say no, it needs to be able to flex some. Up and over pipes like that one just don't handle big air landings well. And different designs addressed vibration/metal to metal areas better than others. Large foam blocks placed strategically may have somewhat of a benefit/prolonging of durability

Also a short section of aluminum/stainless tubing with a bubble coupler/elbow to water box on each end that attaches to the stinger can help provide some more support at that end. And use a top quality manifold to chamber coupler

No, you WANT to allow the rubber dampeners to do their job and isolate vibrations. Transferring that vibration through the pipe by using stiffer (Rhass mounts)/solid mounts will force those vibrations so release their energy at some point which will appear in the form of a broken chamber most likely. The heavier "over the top" type exhausts were not really intended to be used in the manner you describe when it broke, but I don't think replacing rubber isolators with solid mounts is the proper remedy. The rigid mounts might prevent the pipe from moving in a harsh landing scenario, but would most likely introduce a new problem of excessive vibrations being transferred through the pipe which could eventually lead to a cracked inner chamber. I had that happen to me in the past (cracked chamber from improper mounting), lesson learned on my end.

You will crack your speedwerx! Harmonics will eventually crack it anyways. Best to always have perfect alignment and all 3 lord mounts in good condition. Never force then to accept the bolts. Do not install in a bind.

Seems like you'd have to either make the pipe and mount system really really strong and rigid, so that the whole thing vibrates as one with the motor, which is the approach the stock pipe took, or let the pipe wiggle independently of the motor or the vibration will soon break it.

What kind of coupler were you using when you broke the o-ring thing? I have been using the marine wet exhaust rubber hose type on my laydown pipes, it's very beefy and quite a bit stiffer than silicon hose, hard to imagine you could hit something hard enough flex one of those enough to break something, but I guess wierd stuff does happen.

This stuff: https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-46-3-12-marine-grade-soft-wall-exhaust-hose.aspx

I think the maniac sells chunks of it cut to the appropriate length.

I have blown a good few couplers actually lol. I have been using some about 1/4" thick marine exhaust hase with a wire winding through it. I could easily make some ridiculously beefy solid mounts for it but when thinking about how the shockload of hard landings need to be absorbed somewhere I'd be more concerned with cracking a water jacket or any other more serious damaga occurring. I'll get the o-ring portion repaired and just keep it as a showpiece for at home then. Pretty sad, most people decorate their homes with items that match the room, I'll be decorating with ski parts everywhere lol

Pro-pulsion said:

I have blown a good few couplers actually lol. I have been using some about 1/4" thick marine exhaust hase with a wire winding through it. I could easily make some ridiculously beefy solid mounts for it but when thinking about how the shockload of hard landings need to be absorbed somewhere I'd be more concerned with cracking a water jacket or any other more serious damaga occurring. I'll get the o-ring portion repaired and just keep it as a showpiece for at home then. Pretty sad, most people decorate their homes with items that match the room, I'll be decorating with ski parts everywhere lol

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I ran a Speedwerx for a while. Blew Couplers until I sloted the mounting tabs so that the lord mounts had zero deflection, meaning the bolts went straight into the mount without having to pull the lord mount over or push the pipe over. Once I did this, never blew a coupler again.

BK, when you slotted the mounts, did you do any freeriding after that or was it all just flatwater/racing? I'm wondering if I slot the mounts more (they already are) to properly address this issue because I do still have to flex the Lord mounts some to set up the pipe, will this let the pipe be reliable for freeride? I have a B-pipe on there now and it works well but I still have fond memories of the sound and power the sw put out. I'd really like to get it surf capable if that's a possibility. This does mean handling backflops barrel crashes...and hard landings. I'm starting to up my game now getting some respectable air, landings don't always work out as hoped for

Pro-pulsion said:

BK, when you slotted the mounts, did you do any freeriding after that or was it all just flatwater/racing? I'm wondering if I slot the mounts more (they already are) to properly address this issue because I do still have to flex the Lord mounts some to set up the pipe, will this let the pipe be reliable for freeride? I have a B-pipe on there now and it works well but I still have fond memories of the sound and power the sw put out. I'd really like to get it surf capable if that's a possibility. This does mean handling backflops barrel crashes...and hard landings. I'm starting to up my game now getting some respectable air, landings don't always work out as hoped for

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Went to Lake Lanier a few times chasing the 40' cruisers........ But honestly, the B Pipe is just so much better as far as reliability. Dry PIpes are heavy and that is alot of weight hanging off the side of the motor.

If I was to build another lake ski, one to just rip turns and such, the I would look for a Speedwerx. They made the best power!.