shaft seized - any suggestions?

[SharkB8]

I am rebuilding a 1990 SuperJet that has been sitting in a garage for 4 years.

I am a newbie for sure so I thought a cheap, 20 year old ski would be a good one to try to fix up. If I screw up big time, it won't break me.

I pulled the motor out and found that the shaft that goes from the coupler into the rear part of the hull is seized completely solid.

Not only that, when I removed the 3 bolts, it will not come off.

Any suggestion as to how to get this thing off? I'll set up a web server on my computer and post a link to a video that shows just how stuck it is - using a 4-foot piece of wood as a lever, I pulled as hard as I could with one hand (recording with the other hand). It looked like the wood was going to break.

http://24.138.26.27/stuck.avi

I'm not sure what's behind that shaft, so I'm not sure which way to pry on it.

Would a shot of Loosen-All (or whatever its called) help?

Any suggestions?

 

[Matt_E]

There are a couple of spots between the bearing housing and the bulkhead with enough space to get a prybar or screwdriver in.
Do that, and wiggle it back and forth. It should come loose.
You'll need to replace that midshaft bearing housing + bearings (one assembly)

 

[steveyz250fpilot]

Did you pull the pump already? It might not be the midshaft that is your problem.

 

[SharkB8]

Thanks for the speedy replies.

I didn't pull the pump yet - I really don't know how. I have a shred of a clue how to work on the engine itself after a few years of working on my 80 and 125cc bikes but after that rubber coupler thing, the rest of the drive line is a big mystery to me. I have no idea what goes on under the foot tray.

I want to get this bearing housing off even if its not the problem simply because it won't come off. I'll soak it in loosener stuff overnight and then start prying.

It sounds as though the pump should come off also. I'm not sure how but I'll lean the hull over, get the ride plate off and start twisting seized bolt heads off first thing tomorrow morning. > : - )

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Thanks for the speedy replies.

I didn't pull the pump yet - I really don't know how. I have a shred of a clue how to work on the engine itself after a few years of working on my 80 and 125cc bikes but after that rubber coupler thing, the rest of the drive line is a big mystery to me. I have no idea what goes on under the foot tray.

I want to get this bearing housing off even if its not the problem simply because it won't come off. I'll soak it in loosener stuff overnight and then start prying.

It sounds as though the pump should come off also. I'm not sure how but I'll lean the hull over, get the ride plate off and start twisting seized bolt heads off first thing tomorrow morning. > : - )

I am going to make a suggestion here ,often times it helps to know exactly what parts you are dealing with, go to some website like www.cheapcycleparts.com and look up your unit on the microfiche,that will show you exactly what you are dealing with.

 

[SharkB8]

That site didn't have yamaha pwc info but I googled around and Riva has one. Thanks.

If this bearing housing does turn out to be bad, does anyone know if rebuilt housings are available anywhere? SBT maybe? I'd bet that an OEM one for a 20 year old machine would cost more than this whole ski cost me.

 

[BruceSki]

WSM will be your best bet for a cheap midshaft housing
www.wsmparts.com

but it wont last as long as a factory yamaha one.


i would use a propane torch or other heat source on the bolts before you try to remove them and you will save yourself a lot of time and headaches.

 

[surferdude345]

Most likely ur wear ring is shot and stoping the shaft from spinning

 

[Shonuff]

This manual is for a newer ski but it should help lots.

http://www.drmikesandy.com/X-H20/Yamaha SuperJet Service Manual.pdf

 

[JetManiac]

When I have the same problem removing a stuck pump or midshaft, I use a slidehammer with this tool that I made to go on the pump:

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/42419&highlight=pump+tool

Hope that helps. Don't break anything prying where you shouldn't.

 

[SharkB8]

I use a slidehammer with this tool that I made

Do you have any of those tools left? I am driving from Canada down to Florida next week to pick up some parts. If you hav any left I'd get you to mail one to my friend's place where I'm picking up all my parts. (naples)

 

[Jumper]

Most likely ur wear ring is shot and stoping the shaft from spinning

I would check this first also. The impeller might be stuck within a swollen wear ring in the pump. Try to get up under the ski and look in through the intake, or remove the pump and try to spin it separate from the midshaft.

 

[Boris]

most likely ur wear ring is shot and stoping the shaft from spinning

x3

 

[Etheraldreamer]

x4. that sounds the most likely.

 

[SharkB8]

After a few hours I managed to remove both the midshft bearing housing and the pump using a propane torch and penetrating oil (Note To Self: next time chose one or the other mfg: ).

The long shaft / impeller will not turn at all, even in a vise and monkey wrench. I'm attaching the picture of the pump in order to show the condition of the metal that the outer edge of the impeller touches. (Hopefully the image doesn't get resized too small to see the fine detail.)

I guess either the impeller is scraping extremely hard against that outer metal thing or some bearing is seized.

The midshaft will also not turn. So the folks in this thread who blamed the midshaft and the peeps who blamed the pump were both right.

The front end of the shaft still has some grease or oil on it after all these years. It smells like Bel Ray gear oil.

Should the long shaft and impeller pull out of the pump? 'Cuz it ain't moving.

This was meant to be a learning experience for me, but I think that me pressing bearings is a little beyond the scope of my abilities. So....... Can someone suggest a reputable shop who I could send the pump and midshaft to for some TLC? If it makes a differnce, I want to use OEM parts where possible. While I have the pump out, I would like to replace the impeller with a Solas I. Any suggestions as to who could do this?

Edit: I am going to be in Clearwater next week. Is Team Scream still open? Would that be a job for Chuck or does he mainly stick to porting. I dealt with him a few years ago. Seemed like a good guy.

 

[Boris]

As for the pump, it's common that the ware ring will swell up and pinch the prop after years of salt water riding. You can get them OEM or aftermarket (I prefer OEM my self).
There's no need to pull the shaft and prop out of the pump as the ware ring section is removable by unbolting the 4 long bolts that hold the pump assembly together.

The mid-shaft carrier is another item that you can get OEM or aftermarket plus there's always some used ones floating around.
Doesn't take much to press the mid-shaft out and into a new housing.

Since you mentioned Chucky at Team Scream I might as well tell you that you couldn't be in better hands.
Contact Radney (works at X-Scream) and have him get all the parts that way they will be waiting for you when you get there. Won't take them long at all to get you all fixed up.
Just make sure the shop will be open as they will be at Daytona for the Freeride next weekend.

 

[BruceSki]

i picked up a vxr a couple months back and thought the shaft was locked up in the pump stator.

i took off the pump housing and removed the prop. it turns out the prop had so much salt accumulation between the prop hub and the front of the stator, it froze the prop to the stator hub.

now i have a freely moving shaft just by removing the prop.




even if that all works out for you its probably due for new pump bearings anyway if everything else is shot.

 

[JetManiac]

If the impeller is touching the wear ring, then the wear ring is bad. Remove the 4 pump bolts by heating the the pump around the threads and then carefully back them out.

Next heat up the wear ring all the way around at the connection to the pump and then carefully pry the wear ring loose from each side being careful not to break tabs, see if the pump spins after wear ring is removed.