Carbon reinforcing questions

[ADDict]

I'm about to place an order for some materials to re-reinforce my hull in some places before Daytona. I want to reinforce the inner sides of the bilge compartment from a little below the bond line up to the edge of the hood seal lip. Also need to fix the nose of the ski thats busted almost off, and reinforce the inside walls of a stock X2 hood. I'm wanting this stuff to be 100% functional, and could care less what it looks like.
I have zero experience with carbon fiber, so I'm clueless as to what weight/weave to order for what I want. I need something that will make it plenty strong with only a couple layers, yet be flexible enough to form into some smaller places. Just looking for some advice/tips from experience. How light is too light to be effective? What is too heavy to use? What should I get? Thanks!

 

[Mark44]

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I'm about to place an order for some materials to re-reinforce my hull in some places before Daytona. I want to reinforce the inner sides of the bilge compartment from a little below the bond line up to the edge of the hood seal lip. Also need to fix the nose of the ski thats busted almost off, and reinforce the inside walls of a stock X2 hood. I'm wanting this stuff to be 100% functional, and could care less what it looks like.
I have zero experience with carbon fiber, so I'm clueless as to what weight/weave to order for what I want. I need something that will make it plenty strong with only a couple layers, yet be flexible enough to form into some smaller places. Just looking for some advice/tips from experience. How light is too light to be effective? What is too heavy to use? What should I get? Thanks!

If you don't care about the bling factor you have no need to install carbon fiber just go with glass and save a lot of cash for HP. I would go 10 oz. Remember to foam your bond line and sand it down smooth.

Mark44

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Kevlar or kevlar glass hybrid would also be much cheaper,nearly as strong as carbon fiber and less weight than fiberglass,if you do go with fiberglass go with S-glass it is much higher strength than regular e-glass.

 

[oldskoo]

im gonna try that knytex(spl) stuff....its some kind of glass composite thats easy to work with iv heard

 

[shawn_NJ]

I used 8.9oz SGlass cloth over 5oz kevlar. I did panel testing of the layup beforehand, and beat the panels with a 4lb deadblow hammer. They took an amazing amount of punishment, over different types of glass/materials, I tried. If you do use kevlar, you really should buy kevlar shears. Do not think you can get away with beefy sissors/shears. Its a B to cut nicely.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

You are correct on that Shawn Kevlar is not easily cut,the Knytex mentioned above is also substantially stronger than regular cloth because of the weave,it has chopped mat sewn to it also to make for quick layups,it is basically woven roving + chopped mat very strong as far a fiberglass goes.

 

[wydopen]

17oz knytex with mat sewn on the back will be the strongest for the money and easiest to work with..dont mess with kevlar

 

[ADDict]

Thanks for the input. The sides have already been reinforced this spring with 2 layers of 1708 biax. I didn't get all the way up to the lip though, just to the 90 where the hood seal starts. Big mistake. I just want to beef it up a little so there is a chance of making it through daytona in one piece,. After that I'll probably junk the hull.

 

[tipafew]

Is is cracking by the lip????? 2 layers os 1708 is already an overkill in my opinion.
If you are going to junk the hull anyways, just ride it.