Impeller swap easy right?

[steve0we]

Impeller swap....

1. new ski(2008)...................nice & clean simple!
2. buy prop..................nice and pretty!
3. buy shaft tool..........no problem!
4. DO swap on a Tuesday, just in case, thinking ahead!
5.struggle to get stock prop off........... THATS ODD???:dunno:
6. look at threads on shaft and say to self, " damn something isnt right???:dunno:
7. put new prop on and thread it on a little ways and REALLY decide something isnt right....:dunno:
8. call SKAT and have them tell you that the shaft wasnt made right and I have to send it and the prop back to have it re-machined....:sad2::sad2:
9. finding a box to fit pieces in, almost impossible???
10. calling FEDEX to overnight parts.... way $$$$$$$

9. :AR15firing:CALLING YAMAHA............ finding out they say "sorry for the problem, fix it and send us a bill............

COMPLETELY MADE MY DAY!


Has anyone else had this problem? It looked like the stock impeller was just spun on really tight, and hardly any thread was holding it on. Its completely dead.....

 

[Shifty]

That scares me, I just ordered a new 9/15 Hooker prop from impros (arrives friday)to slap on my '08 SuperJet. This will be my first impeller swap also, I did splurge for the drive shaft holder and I have a nice vise and workbench to assist. Hope it goes well....

 

[steve0we]

If you are riding this weekend, replace it next week, or take the stock one off today and see if it comes off nice and smooth. Let me know if it works ok..... what shop did you buy the ski from? I got mine from KENT POWERSPORTS in San Antonio, and they have given me TOP NOTCH service start to finish!

 

[WaveDemon]

normally they're hard to break loose but once you do that everything else is a breeze. sorry about your luck.

 

[WILKEY]

heatn it up helps alot...

 

[Matt_E]

Stupid question, but you do realize it's a reverse thread, right?

 

[Shifty]

I bought my superjet from Sky Powersprots in Lake Wales Florida. I was having trouble getting one and the people kept dicking me around here locally so I put a down payment on one in dallas.... but then my friend told me about a new one on ebay and while I was looking at it I must have clicked buy it now on accident???? I dont know what happened but eBay asked me to log in which I did and it said "congratulations you just bought this item", no warning or anything. I wish I had someone local to deal with about the crack in my hood, the dealer I bought it from in Florida is not assisting me at all.

Anyway to the point, I am going to put my new hooker in my 08 and the stock 08 impeller in my girly-girls ski.

I am hopping it goes smoothly. Impros recommends leaving the wear ring in the hull, is the the best way? Or should I pull the whole pump?


I will get back to you with any issues I run into while removing my prop.

 

[Matt_E]

Don't pull the whole pump.

 

[Idok]

That scares me, I just ordered a new 9/15 Hooker prop from impros (arrives friday)to slap on my '08 SuperJet. This will be my first impeller swap also, I did splurge for the drive shaft holder and I have a nice vise and workbench to assist. Hope it goes well....

that is a necessity

I have used that tool a 1000 times..you will too

Don't pull the whole pump.

how do you change a prop? :thinking:

 

[yamanube]

how do you change a prop? :thinking:

Leave the wear ring in place.

 

[joshuaeric]

Don't pull the whole pump.

I would hope he means don't pull the whole pump apart, but you do need to take it off of the ski. 4 bolts on the pump to the ski, water lines, steering and trim (if you have it).

The impeller tool goes onto the impeller, the shaft tool goes onto the shaft and into a vice. Righty Loosey. Lefty Tighty.

 

[Shifty]

These are the directions from Impros, I assume they are only pulling the two rear bolts (pump to hull) and then taking out the four long skinny bolts which would leave the wear ring in the craft.... Does make sense though, I wouldnt want that rubber packing between the wear ring and pump shoe to get distorted.


As Per Impros:

Secure the craft on a stand or trailer and disconnect the ground cable from your battery.
Remove the ride plate using a 12mm socket (Not required on all craft).
Disconnect all cooling, bilge, and safety spout hoses from the pump and nozzle.
Disconnect the trim (if applicable) and steering cable connectors on the nozzle.
Using the ratchet, extension, and 14mm socket, remove the two 10mm bolts that fasten the reduction nozzle to the hull.
Remove the four 6mm bolts with the 10mm socket that holds the pump assembly. (If the craft has shims, remember to replace them in the same position during re-assembly)
Slide the nozzle and stator sections of the pump assembly and driveshaft out of the hull. (You can also remove the two forward mounted 10mm bolts that hold the wear-ring section to the hull, but it is not usually necessary, and you risk not seating it back to the hull during re-installation.) We recommend simply removing the stator and nozzle assembly.
Some impellers have a hex nose to engage a crescent wrench to, if not, slide an impeller tool (it should have been provided with the impeller) over the driveshaft all the way to the impeller.
Install the Yamaha driveshaft holder onto the splines at the end of the driveshaft.
Clamp the driveshaft holder into a vise. If you do not have a vise, place a 12-inch wrench on the driveshaft holder. Use the other crescent or end wrench on the nut portion of the impeller, or over the impeller tool installed into the nose of the impeller.
Yamaha uses left-hand threads. Turn the impeller clockwise to remove the old impeller, and counter-clockwise for re-installation.
Apply grease or an anti-seize compound to the threads and slide the new impeller over the shaft and turn counter-clockwise to tighten.
Tighten the impeller to approximately 45-ft. lbs. Simply hand-tightening or snugging the impeller can allow the impeller to release and damage, but will also torque the impeller to the extreme, making it very difficult to remove in the future.
Re-install the pump assembly fitted with the new impeller. Remember to use silicone around all water fittings during re-assembly to assure a watertight seal and also grease both ends of the driveshaft. If you did remove the wear-ring also, make sure you do not pinch the rubber gasket that seals the ring to the intake duct. An even, tight seal is important.
Reconnect the steering system and trim control cables. (It is crucial that these cables are connected correctly).
Re-connect all cooling, bilge, and safety spout hoses to the pump and nozzle.
Reconnect the battery ground cable.
Start the motor in the water to make sure that you do not have any leaks. Also, check the bypass fitting at the rear of the craft to make sure the cooling system is working, and the steering system works properly.

 

[Idok]

Leave the wear ring in place.

yeah but you still have to pull the pump..

I would hope he means don't pull the whole pump apart, but you do need to take it off of the ski. 4 bolts on the pump to the ski, water lines, steering and trim (if you have it).

The impeller tool goes onto the impeller, the shaft tool goes onto the shaft and into a vice. Righty Loosey. Lefty Tighty.

that would make more sense

 

[yamanube]

yeah but you still have to pull the pump..

He just said "dont pull the whole pump" if you leave the wear ring in place (especially on a new ski) its alot easier on the seal, plus it can sometimes be a PITA getting the seal compressed and the pump bolts lined up right with the hull.

 

[Idok]

ahhh, I get what you are saying.......



round here, we just pull the whole thing....

 

[Shonuff]

Here too.

 

[Matt_E]

how do you change a prop?

Wiithout pulling the wear ring.

That's pulling part of the pump.

 

[steve0we]

Just want to give a huge THANK YOU to SKAT & Kent Powersports! They both did a great job at getting my boat back in the water. the new prop is pretty nice. Made a big difference in bottom end and was worth the money.

thanks again to Glen at SKAT

 

[Shifty]

I did my swap on Friday, Swapped my Stock '08 prop into my Gf's ski and installed my hooker into mine. This was my first time removing/ installing an impeller and it took about an hour and a half working at casual pace. I left the wear ring in the ski and split the stator/ nozzle section with a flathead between the pry tabs, too easy. I did notice the Hooker 9/15 and my stock stainless '08 prop look almost identical excepth for the polished finish. They perform the same also, maybe worse......... The hubs look to be about the same diameter/ taper, the blades are set back equally (to the base of the hub), the leading edges look the same, etc. This prop really may perform worse than my stock 2008 Stainless prop, what gives????:ugh: